Remove [Courses] from lesson names/post subjects

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From akkana@shallowsky.com  Tue Jan 25 17:37:41 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
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Subject: [Courses] Announce: GIMP course starting
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[For people who didn't see the announcement last week on the
Announce list]

I'm starting a GIMP course, posting the first lesson tonight under
the topic [gimp].  It's aimed specifically at beginners and
near-beginners, but everyone is welcome.  Come twiddle bits
with us!

        ...Akkana

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Tue Jan 25 17:57:35 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
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Subject: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with the GIMP
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Welcome to "GIMP for beginners"!

Lesson 0: Get familiar with the GIMP.

What is the GIMP?  The name stands for "the GNU Image Manipulation
Program", and image manipulation is the GIMP's primary purpose.

This course is aimed at people with an interest in image processing,
but not much experience with actual image editing.  But anyone
is welcome!  Feel free to ask questions, or jump in with discussion
or corrections.  And if you know an easier way to do something I
talked about, don't hesitate to point it out!

If you have a question like "How would I accomplish this thing
that I can do in [proprietary app]?", feel free to ask, but keep
in mind that not everyone may be familiar with the app. 
So describe what the function does, or post "before" and "after"
images: don't just give the name of the function.

For this course, you will need:
- Access to a computer with GIMP installed.

  I will generally be using GIMP 2.2, the current version,
  for the examples.  But since I realize a lot of people are
  using earlier versions, I'll try to give an idea where to look
  for things which might have moved around.

  If possible, try to use at least GIMP 2.0, since the user interface
  changed quite a bit from 1.2.  But if you need to use 1.2, and can't
  find something, feel free to ask about it!

- Electricity.

- Access to some digital images: from a digital camera,
  scans, or images downloaded from the web.

- Access to the internet, and willingness to share some of
  your creations.  Each lesson will have "homework", where
  you're encouraged to produce an image using some of the
  techniques discussed.  Please participate!  Sharing images
  is fun, and I think students will have fun with it too.
  If nobody shares their images, I'll probably get demotivated
  and quit writing lessons.  Fair warning. :-)

  If you have a web site to post your own images, that's ideal.
  If you don't have any web space, there are lots of places that
  offer free hosting of photos (the hook is usually that they hope
  you'll order prints from them).  Try googling for something like:
    free photo "web site"

Enough background ... let's get started!  Start up the GIMP on your
own machine, either from your system menus, by double-clicking the
gimp icon, or by running "gimp" from the commandline.  (You can also
run "gimp file1.jpg file2.png ..." if you have a specific set of
images to edit.)

If you run gimp from the commandline, you may want to put an ampersand
("&") at the end of the line, so that gimp will run in the background,
and you will be able to use your terminal for other things while gimp
is running.  Something like:
  gimp file1.jpg file2.png &

Depending on version, GIMP will usually pop up several windows.
Let's go through the important ones:

The Toolbox Window

This is the GIMP's main window: the titlebar just says "The GIMP.
It has a very simple menubar, which you can use to call up functions
that aren't specific to any particular image.  Let's go over the three
menus:

The toolbox File menu contains file operations such as Open a new image.
It also has an Open Recent submenu, which you can use as a shortcut
to revisit images which you've edited recently.  This can be a real
timesaver versus poking through the filesystem looking for where you
stored the image.  The File menu also includes Preferences (which I'll
discuss in a later lesson), a Dialogs submenu which allows you to
bring up or shoo away some of the GIMP's other dialogs, and Quit.

The toolbox Xtns menu contains various scripts to do fun things.
I'll discuss some of them in a later lesson; meanwhile, you might
enjoy exploring the Python-Fu and Script-Fu submenus.  There are
tons of cool scripts in there.

The Help menu brings up the GIMP's help system.  The help system for
GIMP 2.0 is based on gnome help, and unfortunately a lot of systems
don't have all the necessary pieces installed.  Try it, but if it
doesn't work, don't panic.  There's lots of GIMP help available
online, and if you're in this course, then you have a place to ask
questions about anything you're having problems with!

Below the menubar, most of the GIMP toolbox is taken up by the "tool
palette": small icons representing various GIMP tools.  We'll talk about
those tools in future courses.  For now, if you move the mouse over a
tool and stop there, you'll get a tooltip telling you what tool the
icon represents.  Feel free to play around with changing tools and
experiment with what some of the tools do.

Below the tool palette is a color selector, on the left, showing
foreground and background color; and on the right, an area showing the
currently selected brush, fill pattern, and gradient.
These are used by the text tool and various drawing and painting
tools; we'll be talking about them in future lessons.  For now,
clicking on them will bring up a dialog allowing you to change them.

If you see anything else below the color/brush/pattern/gradient
selectors, it probably means you have another dialog docked at the
bottom of the toolbox window.  Since this varies by user, anything
which might be docked there will be discussed later.

The Layers Window

Another window which GIMP will show, in addition to the toolbox
window, is the Layers, Channels, and Paths window.  Most beginners
immediately close this window when they start GIMP; but in this
course, we'll be using it, so I encourage you to leave it open.

Image Windows

Each image GIMP opens will have its own window.  In GIMP 2.0 and 2.2,
these windows have their own menubars across the top (this is
configurable in Preferences); in 1.2, they don't.  But in any version
of GIMP, whether or not there's a menubar, you can always get to the
image window menus by right-clicking inside the image window.

Other Windows

Depending on your GIMP version, you may see other windows, such as
Tool Options, Brushes, or Devices.  We'll talk about those later,
but for now, you don't need them.

This concludes the (rather long) intial lesson.  Your only homework
for this lesson is to look through the gimp menus, mouse over the
tools in the toolbox to see their tooltips, and generally get familiar
with how the app looks.  Try opening an image, or maybe running some
of the scripts in the Xtns menu.  Have fun!

Next lesson: Basic Photo Editing.  Stuff you'll want if you upload
pictures from your camera and want to crop and resize them for the web.

From jacqueline-linuxchix@decisions-and-designs.com.au  Wed Jan 26 00:35:09 2005
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Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 21:35:44 +0800
From: Jacqueline McNally <jacqueline-linuxchix@decisions-and-designs.com.au>
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Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with the GIMP
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Hello

I am looking forward to the course :)

> - Access to some digital images: from a digital camera,
>   scans, or images downloaded from the web.
> 

www.burningwell.org was a link that was sent to me just last week as 
there are a couple of contributors that I know who have submitted some 
superb photos.

These are public domain, so for people like me whose photographic skills 
are negligible, they will be fun to start playing with as Akkana guides 
us through using the GIMP.

Regards
Jacqueline

From anna@cs.wits.ac.za  Wed Jan 26 01:57:56 2005
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        Tue, 25 Jan 2005 16:57:44 +0200
From: "Anna Badimo" <anna@cs.wits.ac.za>
To: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with the GIMP
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 16:57:43 +0200
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Dear Akkana,

I am a bit behind because I am battling to install GIMP. 

I have the following directory structure:

HOME\GIMP\gimp-2.2.0

Within gimp-2.2.0 I have the following subdirectories:
fontconfig-2.2.0
gtkmm-2.4.4  
pkgconfig-0.15.0
freetype-2.1.9
libart_lgpl-2.3.17

The libraries are in:
usr/lib/ and usr/include

The INSTALL file says I must do the following:
% tar xvfz gimp-2.2.x.tar.gz   # unpack the sources
% cd gimp-2.2.x                # change to the toplevel directory
% ./configure                  # run the `configure' script
% make                         # build the GIMP
% make install                 # install the GIMP

When I type ./configure, I get the message "Command not found" even when I
type the full pathname.

Please help and thanks in advance. I don't want to miss a session.

Best Regards
Anna Badimo

--
WITS University


---------- Original Message -----------
From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Sent: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 22:57:31 -0800
Subject: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with the GIMP

> Welcome to "GIMP for beginners"!
> 
> Lesson 0: Get familiar with the GIMP.
> 
> What is the GIMP?  The name stands for "the GNU Image Manipulation
> Program", and image manipulation is the GIMP's primary purpose.
> 
> This course is aimed at people with an interest in image processing,
> but not much experience with actual image editing.  But anyone
> is welcome!  Feel free to ask questions, or jump in with discussion
> or corrections.  And if you know an easier way to do something I
> talked about, don't hesitate to point it out!
> 
> If you have a question like "How would I accomplish this thing
> that I can do in [proprietary app]?", feel free to ask, but keep
> in mind that not everyone may be familiar with the app. 
> So describe what the function does, or post "before" and "after"
> images: don't just give the name of the function.
> 
> For this course, you will need:
> - Access to a computer with GIMP installed.
> 
>   I will generally be using GIMP 2.2, the current version,
>   for the examples.  But since I realize a lot of people are
>   using earlier versions, I'll try to give an idea where to look
>   for things which might have moved around.
> 
>   If possible, try to use at least GIMP 2.0, since the user interface
>   changed quite a bit from 1.2.  But if you need to use 1.2, and 
> can't  find something, feel free to ask about it!
> 
> - Electricity.
> 
> - Access to some digital images: from a digital camera,
>   scans, or images downloaded from the web.
> 
> - Access to the internet, and willingness to share some of
>   your creations.  Each lesson will have "homework", where
>   you're encouraged to produce an image using some of the
>   techniques discussed.  Please participate!  Sharing images
>   is fun, and I think students will have fun with it too.
>   If nobody shares their images, I'll probably get demotivated
>   and quit writing lessons.  Fair warning. :-)
> 
>   If you have a web site to post your own images, that's ideal.
>   If you don't have any web space, there are lots of places that
>   offer free hosting of photos (the hook is usually that they hope
>   you'll order prints from them).  Try googling for something like:
>     free photo "web site"
> 
> Enough background ... let's get started!  Start up the GIMP on your
> own machine, either from your system menus, by double-clicking the
> gimp icon, or by running "gimp" from the commandline.  (You can also
> run "gimp file1.jpg file2.png ..." if you have a specific set of
> images to edit.)
> 
> If you run gimp from the commandline, you may want to put an ampersand
> ("&") at the end of the line, so that gimp will run in the 
> background, and you will be able to use your terminal for other 
> things while gimp is running.  Something like:  gimp file1.jpg 
> file2.png &
> 
> Depending on version, GIMP will usually pop up several windows.
> Let's go through the important ones:
> 
> The Toolbox Window
> 
> This is the GIMP's main window: the titlebar just says "The GIMP.
> It has a very simple menubar, which you can use to call up functions
> that aren't specific to any particular image.  Let's go over the 
> three menus:
> 
> The toolbox File menu contains file operations such as Open a new image.
> It also has an Open Recent submenu, which you can use as a shortcut
> to revisit images which you've edited recently.  This can be a real
> timesaver versus poking through the filesystem looking for where you
> stored the image.  The File menu also includes Preferences (which 
> I'll discuss in a later lesson), a Dialogs submenu which allows you 
> to bring up or shoo away some of the GIMP's other dialogs, and Quit.
> 
> The toolbox Xtns menu contains various scripts to do fun things.
> I'll discuss some of them in a later lesson; meanwhile, you might
> enjoy exploring the Python-Fu and Script-Fu submenus.  There are
> tons of cool scripts in there.
> 
> The Help menu brings up the GIMP's help system.  The help system for
> GIMP 2.0 is based on gnome help, and unfortunately a lot of systems
> don't have all the necessary pieces installed.  Try it, but if it
> doesn't work, don't panic.  There's lots of GIMP help available
> online, and if you're in this course, then you have a place to ask
> questions about anything you're having problems with!
> 
> Below the menubar, most of the GIMP toolbox is taken up by the "tool
> palette": small icons representing various GIMP tools.  We'll talk about
> those tools in future courses.  For now, if you move the mouse over a
> tool and stop there, you'll get a tooltip telling you what tool the
> icon represents.  Feel free to play around with changing tools and
> experiment with what some of the tools do.
> 
> Below the tool palette is a color selector, on the left, showing
> foreground and background color; and on the right, an area showing 
> the currently selected brush, fill pattern, and gradient. These are 
> used by the text tool and various drawing and painting tools; we'll 
> be talking about them in future lessons.  For now, clicking on them 
> will bring up a dialog allowing you to change them.
> 
> If you see anything else below the color/brush/pattern/gradient
> selectors, it probably means you have another dialog docked at the
> bottom of the toolbox window.  Since this varies by user, anything
> which might be docked there will be discussed later.
> 
> The Layers Window
> 
> Another window which GIMP will show, in addition to the toolbox
> window, is the Layers, Channels, and Paths window.  Most beginners
> immediately close this window when they start GIMP; but in this
> course, we'll be using it, so I encourage you to leave it open.
> 
> Image Windows
> 
> Each image GIMP opens will have its own window.  In GIMP 2.0 and 2.2,
> these windows have their own menubars across the top (this is
> configurable in Preferences); in 1.2, they don't.  But in any version
> of GIMP, whether or not there's a menubar, you can always get to the
> image window menus by right-clicking inside the image window.
> 
> Other Windows
> 
> Depending on your GIMP version, you may see other windows, such as
> Tool Options, Brushes, or Devices.  We'll talk about those later,
> but for now, you don't need them.
> 
> This concludes the (rather long) intial lesson.  Your only homework
> for this lesson is to look through the gimp menus, mouse over the
> tools in the toolbox to see their tooltips, and generally get 
> familiar with how the app looks.  Try opening an image, or maybe 
> running some of the scripts in the Xtns menu.  Have fun!
> 
> Next lesson: Basic Photo Editing.  Stuff you'll want if you upload
> pictures from your camera and want to crop and resize them for the web.
> _______________________________________________
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From akkana@shallowsky.com  Wed Jan 26 04:49:21 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with the GIMP
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Anna Badimo writes:
> Dear Akkana,
> 
> I am a bit behind because I am battling to install GIMP. 
> 
> I have the following directory structure:
> 
> HOME\GIMP\gimp-2.2.0

First question: is this on Windows?  The backslashes made me wonder.

> Within gimp-2.2.0 I have the following subdirectories:
> fontconfig-2.2.0
> gtkmm-2.4.4  
> pkgconfig-0.15.0
> freetype-2.1.9
> libart_lgpl-2.3.17

That looks like a list of other projects, not subdirectories within
gimp.  The gimp source package has a lot more directories than that,
with names such as app, ata, etc, libgimp, libgimpbase.  What you
have may be a collection of dependencies gimp needs, rather than
gimp itself.

Where did you get your gimp 2.2.0 tarball?  I built 2.2.3 yesterday
from a tarball I got by going to gimp.org, clicking on "Downloads",
then clicking on the ftp link: ftp://ftp.gimp.org/pub/gimp/v2.2/
gimp-2.2.3.tar.gz is the file I downloaded.

To build gimp you need quite a few other packages; even on my
system, which I thought was pretty up-to-date and had built earlier
versions of gimp, I had to add libpng-dev and a couple other -dev
packages.  Looking through the messages configure spits out can
give clues as to what package you need (usually something-dev or
something-devel) but sometimes it's not obvious and you'll need
to ask.

If you're on Linux, what distro?  Is there no prebuilt gimp package,
or is it an old one and you're trying to update to a newer version?

        ...Akkana

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Wed Jan 26 02:45:40 2005
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Akkana Peck wrote:
> Welcome to "GIMP for beginners"!
> 
> For this course, you will need:
>
> - Electricity.

Hahahahaha

> - Access to some digital images: from a digital camera,
>   scans, or images downloaded from the web.

What do you mean by "digital images."  I have some good scanned 
images mostly from a 35mm but my digital camera is poor quality.

> Enough background ... let's get started! 

BRB ..."man urpmi update..."

> 
> Next lesson: Basic Photo Editing.  Stuff you'll want if you upload
> pictures from your camera and want to crop and resize them for the web.

thanks,
Julie

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Wed Jan 26 05:02:36 2005
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Julie Sloan writes:
> What do you mean by "digital images."  I have some good scanned 
> images mostly from a 35mm but my digital camera is poor quality.

Nearly any image will do.

Most of the exercises I'll be suggesting in the early lessons
will involve taking an existing image and doing something to it:
changing the size, changing brightness or colors, combining two
images, sharpening.  So you'll need some raw material to start with.
It doesn't have to be wonderful quality, or any particular size,
and it's fine if it's downloaded from somewhere.

Thanks to those who posted suggestions for sites to get photos!
I'll collect these as a list and put the list up on the courses page.

Other possibilities are government sites: national park services
have lots of pretty scenic photos, fish & game departments
have animal photos, and space agencies like NASA and the Hubble
Space Telescope have photos of planets and astronomical objects.
Most of these are public domain, so you can use them to make images
and not have to worry about copyright restrictions.

CreativeCommons.org is another source for photos with generous
copyright allowances.

        ...Akkana

From mary@home.puzzling.org  Wed Jan 26 08:09:59 2005
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On Tue, Jan 25, 2005, Akkana Peck wrote:
> Other possibilities are government sites: national park services have
> lots of pretty scenic photos, fish & game departments have animal
> photos, and space agencies like NASA and the Hubble Space Telescope
> have photos of planets and astronomical objects.  Most of these are
> public domain, so you can use them to make images and not have to
> worry about copyright restrictions.

Just note that this is only really true for US government sites: other
governments do not have usually let or require that their employees
release things into the public domain like the US government does. For
example, the Australian government websites will normally keep copyright
and all associated rights on their images.

-Mary

From ra_unver@yahoo.co.uk  Wed Jan 26 03:04:06 2005
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Hello,

Thank you very much for starting such a course, I
will try to participate in the course as long as
I can do:) And I want to recommend a site which
has really beautiful digital images:
http://www.fotokritik.com/index.php

the site is in Turkish but I think photos could
be used. Also I must add that the site is a photo
critise site so you can directly reach the photos
from following link:
http://www.fotokritik.com/fotograflar.php

And also if you like the photos I try to help you
about the language.

Thanks again Akkana.



--- Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com> wrote:=20
> Welcome to "GIMP for beginners"!
>=20
> Lesson 0: Get familiar with the GIMP.
>=20
> What is the GIMP?  The name stands for "the GNU
> Image Manipulation
> Program", and image manipulation is the GIMP's
> primary purpose.
>=20



=09
=09
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ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun! http://uk.me=
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From: Shyam Mani <fox2mike@gmail.com>
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On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 22:57:31 -0800, Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com> wrote:

> The Layers Window
> Another window which GIMP will show, in addition to the toolbox
> window, is the Layers, Channels, and Paths window.  Most beginners
> immediately close this window when they start GIMP; but in this
> course, we'll be using it, so I encourage you to leave it open.

How do I get this one to open by default again everytime Gimp starts up?

-- 
Shyam Mani
http://xinetd.accosted.net/

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Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome! Get Familiar with the GIMP
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On Mon, Jan 31, 2005 at 10:46:16PM +0530, Shyam Mani wrote:
> On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 22:57:31 -0800, Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com> wrote:
> 
> > The Layers Window
> > Another window which GIMP will show, in addition to the toolbox
> > window, is the Layers, Channels, and Paths window.  Most beginners
> > immediately close this window when they start GIMP; but in this
> > course, we'll be using it, so I encourage you to leave it open.
> 
> How do I get this one to open by default again everytime Gimp starts up?
> 

<Toolbox>-->Dialogs-->Create New Dock-->Layers, Channels, Paths

I have been trying to compile a section on my web site about how to
configure, tweak, add styles to your widgets and anything else that
might be helpful to people using TheGIMP.  There is an enormous amount
of pages there, and perhaps not so much information -- it is difficult
to write things for everyone.

I do not want to infringe on Akkana's Course, however if there are those
with time to work through things there, I would appreciate suggestions.

The web page there that specifically answers your question and maybe
more is: http://carol.gimp.org/gimp2/basics/gui/docks-tabs.html
there is some cute and perhaps helpful javascript on the page that is an
attempt to show you in html what the gimp should do on your desktop.

The whole section is:
http://carol.gimp.org/gimp2/basics/gui/ and well, I was inspired by
Carla on another Course here to go ahead and make my opinions.

I would really appreciate additional input from anyone involved with
this course before making it more publically known.

Also, forgive me if i am jumping ahead of things in Akkans plans.  This
stuff is about the widgets and the gui, tho.  Not at all about using
gimp as an art tool -- i dont think the information should hurt the
course too much.

thanks,
carol


From carol@gimp.org  Tue Feb  1 05:01:00 2005
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Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome! Get Familiar with the GIMP
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On Mon, Jan 31, 2005 at 09:57:30AM -0800, Carol Spears wrote:
> On Mon, Jan 31, 2005 at 10:46:16PM +0530, Shyam Mani wrote:
> > On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 22:57:31 -0800, Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com> wrote:
> > 
> > > The Layers Window
> > > Another window which GIMP will show, in addition to the toolbox
> > > window, is the Layers, Channels, and Paths window.  Most beginners
> > > immediately close this window when they start GIMP; but in this
> > > course, we'll be using it, so I encourage you to leave it open.
> > 
> > How do I get this one to open by default again everytime Gimp starts up?
> > 
> 
oops, back to the original question.

unless you change something in the preferences, all the windows that are
open when you last closed gimp (with the exception of Image Windows)
should open the next time you start gimp again.

carol


From kristi@erdves.lt  Wed Jan 26 03:04:40 2005
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Hey all,
 
I've noticed that some of you are having probs with installation of
GIMP. Even though it won't help you at all, I want to note that there is
a fine windows version of GIMP. You just drop in the GTK+ libs and add
GIMP on top of that (there is a full installation package on the web,
http://www.gimp.org/windows/). The apps are identical.
 
I have actually successfully adopted it at work. Being a big
international organization, we have to follow general IT regulations in
many fields, which includes the requirement for WinXP workstations. Some
of our designers wished to have Adobe Photoshop, and instead of that,
they've got GIMP now. Works perfectly. Everyone's happy.
 
--
Kristina

From Shabana_M@Dell.com  Wed Jan 26 20:30:44 2005
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=20

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Today's Topics:

   1. Announce: GIMP course starting (Akkana Peck)
   2. [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with the GIMP
      (Akkana Peck)
   3. Re: [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with the GIMP
      (Jacqueline McNally)
   4. Re: [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with the GIMP
      (Anna Badimo)
   5. Re: [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with the GIMP
      (Julie Sloan)
   6. Re: [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with the GIMP
      (Rahime Unver)
   7. [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with the GIMP (kristi)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 22:37:35 -0800
From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
Subject: [Courses] Announce: GIMP course starting
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Message-ID: <20050125063735.GA24794@shallowsky.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Dus-ascii

[For people who didn't see the announcement last week on the Announce
list]

I'm starting a GIMP course, posting the first lesson tonight under the
topic [gimp].  It's aimed specifically at beginners and near-beginners,
but everyone is welcome.  Come twiddle bits with us!

        ...Akkana


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 22:57:31 -0800
From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
Subject: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with the
        GIMP
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Message-ID: <20050125065731.GB24794@shallowsky.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Dus-ascii

Welcome to "GIMP for beginners"!

Lesson 0: Get familiar with the GIMP.

What is the GIMP?  The name stands for "the GNU Image Manipulation
Program", and image manipulation is the GIMP's primary purpose.

This course is aimed at people with an interest in image processing, but
not much experience with actual image editing.  But anyone is welcome!
Feel free to ask questions, or jump in with discussion or corrections.
And if you know an easier way to do something I talked about, don't
hesitate to point it out!

If you have a question like "How would I accomplish this thing that I
can do in [proprietary app]?", feel free to ask, but keep in mind that
not everyone may be familiar with the app.=20
So describe what the function does, or post "before" and "after"
images: don't just give the name of the function.

For this course, you will need:
- Access to a computer with GIMP installed.

  I will generally be using GIMP 2.2, the current version,
  for the examples.  But since I realize a lot of people are
  using earlier versions, I'll try to give an idea where to look
  for things which might have moved around.

  If possible, try to use at least GIMP 2.0, since the user interface
  changed quite a bit from 1.2.  But if you need to use 1.2, and can't
  find something, feel free to ask about it!

- Electricity.

- Access to some digital images: from a digital camera,
  scans, or images downloaded from the web.

- Access to the internet, and willingness to share some of
  your creations.  Each lesson will have "homework", where
  you're encouraged to produce an image using some of the
  techniques discussed.  Please participate!  Sharing images
  is fun, and I think students will have fun with it too.
  If nobody shares their images, I'll probably get demotivated
  and quit writing lessons.  Fair warning. :-)

  If you have a web site to post your own images, that's ideal.
  If you don't have any web space, there are lots of places that
  offer free hosting of photos (the hook is usually that they hope
  you'll order prints from them).  Try googling for something like:
    free photo "web site"

Enough background ... let's get started!  Start up the GIMP on your own
machine, either from your system menus, by double-clicking the gimp
icon, or by running "gimp" from the commandline.  (You can also run
"gimp file1.jpg file2.png ..." if you have a specific set of images to
edit.)

If you run gimp from the commandline, you may want to put an ampersand
("&") at the end of the line, so that gimp will run in the background,
and you will be able to use your terminal for other things while gimp is
running.  Something like:
  gimp file1.jpg file2.png &

Depending on version, GIMP will usually pop up several windows.
Let's go through the important ones:

The Toolbox Window

This is the GIMP's main window: the titlebar just says "The GIMP.
It has a very simple menubar, which you can use to call up functions
that aren't specific to any particular image.  Let's go over the three
menus:

The toolbox File menu contains file operations such as Open a new image.
It also has an Open Recent submenu, which you can use as a shortcut to
revisit images which you've edited recently.  This can be a real
timesaver versus poking through the filesystem looking for where you
stored the image.  The File menu also includes Preferences (which I'll
discuss in a later lesson), a Dialogs submenu which allows you to bring
up or shoo away some of the GIMP's other dialogs, and Quit.

The toolbox Xtns menu contains various scripts to do fun things.
I'll discuss some of them in a later lesson; meanwhile, you might enjoy
exploring the Python-Fu and Script-Fu submenus.  There are tons of cool
scripts in there.

The Help menu brings up the GIMP's help system.  The help system for
GIMP 2.0 is based on gnome help, and unfortunately a lot of systems
don't have all the necessary pieces installed.  Try it, but if it
doesn't work, don't panic.  There's lots of GIMP help available online,
and if you're in this course, then you have a place to ask questions
about anything you're having problems with!

Below the menubar, most of the GIMP toolbox is taken up by the "tool
palette": small icons representing various GIMP tools.  We'll talk about
those tools in future courses.  For now, if you move the mouse over a
tool and stop there, you'll get a tooltip telling you what tool the icon
represents.  Feel free to play around with changing tools and experiment
with what some of the tools do.

Below the tool palette is a color selector, on the left, showing
foreground and background color; and on the right, an area showing the
currently selected brush, fill pattern, and gradient.
These are used by the text tool and various drawing and painting tools;
we'll be talking about them in future lessons.  For now, clicking on
them will bring up a dialog allowing you to change them.

If you see anything else below the color/brush/pattern/gradient
selectors, it probably means you have another dialog docked at the
bottom of the toolbox window.  Since this varies by user, anything which
might be docked there will be discussed later.

The Layers Window

Another window which GIMP will show, in addition to the toolbox window,
is the Layers, Channels, and Paths window.  Most beginners immediately
close this window when they start GIMP; but in this course, we'll be
using it, so I encourage you to leave it open.

Image Windows

Each image GIMP opens will have its own window.  In GIMP 2.0 and 2.2,
these windows have their own menubars across the top (this is
configurable in Preferences); in 1.2, they don't.  But in any version of
GIMP, whether or not there's a menubar, you can always get to the image
window menus by right-clicking inside the image window.

Other Windows

Depending on your GIMP version, you may see other windows, such as Tool
Options, Brushes, or Devices.  We'll talk about those later, but for
now, you don't need them.

This concludes the (rather long) intial lesson.  Your only homework for
this lesson is to look through the gimp menus, mouse over the tools in
the toolbox to see their tooltips, and generally get familiar with how
the app looks.  Try opening an image, or maybe running some of the
scripts in the Xtns menu.  Have fun!

Next lesson: Basic Photo Editing.  Stuff you'll want if you upload
pictures from your camera and want to crop and resize them for the web.


------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 21:35:44 +0800
From: Jacqueline McNally
        <jacqueline-linuxchix@decisions-and-designs.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with
        the GIMP
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Message-ID: <41F64B30.4010507@decisions-and-designs.com.au>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3DISO-8859-1; format=3Dflowed

Hello

I am looking forward to the course :)

> - Access to some digital images: from a digital camera,
>   scans, or images downloaded from the web.
>=20

www.burningwell.org was a link that was sent to me just last week as
there are a couple of contributors that I know who have submitted some
superb photos.

These are public domain, so for people like me whose photographic skills
are negligible, they will be fun to start playing with as Akkana guides
us through using the GIMP.

Regards
Jacqueline


------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 16:57:43 +0200
From: "Anna Badimo" <anna@cs.wits.ac.za>
Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with
        the GIMP
To: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
Cc: courses@linuxchix.org
Message-ID: <20050125121454.M85448@cs.wits.ac.za>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=3Diso-8859-1

Dear Akkana,

I am a bit behind because I am battling to install GIMP.=20

I have the following directory structure:

HOME\GIMP\gimp-2.2.0

Within gimp-2.2.0 I have the following subdirectories:
fontconfig-2.2.0
gtkmm-2.4.4
pkgconfig-0.15.0
freetype-2.1.9
libart_lgpl-2.3.17

The libraries are in:
usr/lib/ and usr/include

The INSTALL file says I must do the following:
% tar xvfz gimp-2.2.x.tar.gz   # unpack the sources
% cd gimp-2.2.x                # change to the toplevel directory
% ./configure                  # run the `configure' script
% make                         # build the GIMP
% make install                 # install the GIMP

When I type ./configure, I get the message "Command not found" even when
I type the full pathname.

Please help and thanks in advance. I don't want to miss a session.

Best Regards
Anna Badimo

--
WITS University


---------- Original Message -----------
From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Sent: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 22:57:31 -0800
Subject: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with the GIMP

> Welcome to "GIMP for beginners"!
>=20
> Lesson 0: Get familiar with the GIMP.
>=20
> What is the GIMP?  The name stands for "the GNU Image Manipulation=20
> Program", and image manipulation is the GIMP's primary purpose.
>=20
> This course is aimed at people with an interest in image processing,=20
> but not much experience with actual image editing.  But anyone is=20
> welcome!  Feel free to ask questions, or jump in with discussion or=20
> corrections.  And if you know an easier way to do something I talked=20
> about, don't hesitate to point it out!
>=20
> If you have a question like "How would I accomplish this thing that I=20
> can do in [proprietary app]?", feel free to ask, but keep in mind that

> not everyone may be familiar with the app.
> So describe what the function does, or post "before" and "after"
> images: don't just give the name of the function.
>=20
> For this course, you will need:
> - Access to a computer with GIMP installed.
>=20
>   I will generally be using GIMP 2.2, the current version,
>   for the examples.  But since I realize a lot of people are
>   using earlier versions, I'll try to give an idea where to look
>   for things which might have moved around.
>=20
>   If possible, try to use at least GIMP 2.0, since the user interface
>   changed quite a bit from 1.2.  But if you need to use 1.2, and can't

> find something, feel free to ask about it!
>=20
> - Electricity.
>=20
> - Access to some digital images: from a digital camera,
>   scans, or images downloaded from the web.
>=20
> - Access to the internet, and willingness to share some of
>   your creations.  Each lesson will have "homework", where
>   you're encouraged to produce an image using some of the
>   techniques discussed.  Please participate!  Sharing images
>   is fun, and I think students will have fun with it too.
>   If nobody shares their images, I'll probably get demotivated
>   and quit writing lessons.  Fair warning. :-)
>=20
>   If you have a web site to post your own images, that's ideal.
>   If you don't have any web space, there are lots of places that
>   offer free hosting of photos (the hook is usually that they hope
>   you'll order prints from them).  Try googling for something like:
>     free photo "web site"
>=20
> Enough background ... let's get started!  Start up the GIMP on your=20
> own machine, either from your system menus, by double-clicking the=20
> gimp icon, or by running "gimp" from the commandline.  (You can also=20
> run "gimp file1.jpg file2.png ..." if you have a specific set of=20
> images to edit.)
>=20
> If you run gimp from the commandline, you may want to put an ampersand
> ("&") at the end of the line, so that gimp will run in the background,

> and you will be able to use your terminal for other things while gimp=20
> is running.  Something like:  gimp file1.jpg file2.png &
>=20
> Depending on version, GIMP will usually pop up several windows.
> Let's go through the important ones:
>=20
> The Toolbox Window
>=20
> This is the GIMP's main window: the titlebar just says "The GIMP.
> It has a very simple menubar, which you can use to call up functions=20
> that aren't specific to any particular image.  Let's go over the three

> menus:
>=20
> The toolbox File menu contains file operations such as Open a new
image.
> It also has an Open Recent submenu, which you can use as a shortcut to

> revisit images which you've edited recently.  This can be a real=20
> timesaver versus poking through the filesystem looking for where you=20
> stored the image.  The File menu also includes Preferences (which I'll

> discuss in a later lesson), a Dialogs submenu which allows you to=20
> bring up or shoo away some of the GIMP's other dialogs, and Quit.
>=20
> The toolbox Xtns menu contains various scripts to do fun things.
> I'll discuss some of them in a later lesson; meanwhile, you might=20
> enjoy exploring the Python-Fu and Script-Fu submenus.  There are tons=20
> of cool scripts in there.
>=20
> The Help menu brings up the GIMP's help system.  The help system for=20
> GIMP 2.0 is based on gnome help, and unfortunately a lot of systems=20
> don't have all the necessary pieces installed.  Try it, but if it=20
> doesn't work, don't panic.  There's lots of GIMP help available=20
> online, and if you're in this course, then you have a place to ask=20
> questions about anything you're having problems with!
>=20
> Below the menubar, most of the GIMP toolbox is taken up by the "tool
> palette": small icons representing various GIMP tools.  We'll talk=20
> about those tools in future courses.  For now, if you move the mouse=20
> over a tool and stop there, you'll get a tooltip telling you what tool

> the icon represents.  Feel free to play around with changing tools and

> experiment with what some of the tools do.
>=20
> Below the tool palette is a color selector, on the left, showing=20
> foreground and background color; and on the right, an area showing the

> currently selected brush, fill pattern, and gradient. These are used=20
> by the text tool and various drawing and painting tools; we'll be=20
> talking about them in future lessons.  For now, clicking on them will=20
> bring up a dialog allowing you to change them.
>=20
> If you see anything else below the color/brush/pattern/gradient=20
> selectors, it probably means you have another dialog docked at the=20
> bottom of the toolbox window.  Since this varies by user, anything=20
> which might be docked there will be discussed later.
>=20
> The Layers Window
>=20
> Another window which GIMP will show, in addition to the toolbox=20
> window, is the Layers, Channels, and Paths window.  Most beginners=20
> immediately close this window when they start GIMP; but in this=20
> course, we'll be using it, so I encourage you to leave it open.
>=20
> Image Windows
>=20
> Each image GIMP opens will have its own window.  In GIMP 2.0 and 2.2,=20
> these windows have their own menubars across the top (this is=20
> configurable in Preferences); in 1.2, they don't.  But in any version=20
> of GIMP, whether or not there's a menubar, you can always get to the=20
> image window menus by right-clicking inside the image window.
>=20
> Other Windows
>=20
> Depending on your GIMP version, you may see other windows, such as=20
> Tool Options, Brushes, or Devices.  We'll talk about those later, but=20
> for now, you don't need them.
>=20
> This concludes the (rather long) intial lesson.  Your only homework=20
> for this lesson is to look through the gimp menus, mouse over the=20
> tools in the toolbox to see their tooltips, and generally get familiar

> with how the app looks.  Try opening an image, or maybe running some=20
> of the scripts in the Xtns menu.  Have fun!
>=20
> Next lesson: Basic Photo Editing.  Stuff you'll want if you upload=20
> pictures from your camera and want to crop and resize them for the
web.
> _______________________________________________
> Courses mailing list
> Courses@linuxchix.org
> http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/listinfo/courses
------- End of Original Message -------



------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 10:46:00 -0500
From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with
        the GIMP
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Message-ID: <41F669B8.5060605@mindspring.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Dus-ascii; format=3Dflowed

Akkana Peck wrote:
> Welcome to "GIMP for beginners"!
>=20
> For this course, you will need:
>
> - Electricity.

Hahahahaha

> - Access to some digital images: from a digital camera,
>   scans, or images downloaded from the web.

What do you mean by "digital images."  I have some good scanned images
mostly from a 35mm but my digital camera is poor quality.

> Enough background ... let's get started!=20

BRB ..."man urpmi update..."

>=20
> Next lesson: Basic Photo Editing.  Stuff you'll want if you upload=20
> pictures from your camera and want to crop and resize them for the
web.

thanks,
Julie


------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 16:03:51 +0000 (GMT)
From: Rahime Unver <ra_unver@yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with
        the GIMP
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Message-ID: <20050125160351.50350.qmail@web25007.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Diso-8859-1

Hello,

Thank you very much for starting such a course, I will try to
participate in the course as long as I can do:) And I want to recommend
a site which has really beautiful digital images:
http://www.fotokritik.com/index.php

the site is in Turkish but I think photos could be used. Also I must add
that the site is a photo critise site so you can directly reach the
photos from following link:
http://www.fotokritik.com/fotograflar.php

And also if you like the photos I try to help you about the language.

Thanks again Akkana.



--- Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com> wrote:=20
> Welcome to "GIMP for beginners"!
>=20
> Lesson 0: Get familiar with the GIMP.
>=20
> What is the GIMP?  The name stands for "the GNU Image Manipulation=20
> Program", and image manipulation is the GIMP's primary purpose.
>=20



=09
=09
        =09
___________________________________________________________
ALL-NEW Yahoo! Messenger - all new features - even more fun!
http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com


------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 18:03:59 +0200
From: "kristi" <kristi@erdves.lt>
Subject: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 0: Welcome!  Get Familiar with the
        GIMP
To: <courses@linuxchix.org>
Message-ID:
        <B8EADBB6BC0F3241880B56BDE2AF124B161AA6@vils02.swedishtrade.se>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=3D"us-ascii"

Hey all,
=20
I've noticed that some of you are having probs with installation of
GIMP. Even though it won't help you at all, I want to note that there is
a fine windows version of GIMP. You just drop in the GTK+ libs and add
GIMP on top of that (there is a full installation package on the web,
http://www.gimp.org/windows/). The apps are identical.
=20
I have actually successfully adopted it at work. Being a big
international organization, we have to follow general IT regulations in
many fields, which includes the requirement for WinXP workstations. Some
of our designers wished to have Adobe Photoshop, and instead of that,
they've got GIMP now. Works perfectly. Everyone's happy.
=20
--
Kristina


------------------------------

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Courses mailing list
Courses@linuxchix.org
http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/listinfo/courses


End of Courses Digest, Vol 19, Issue 9
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From mary@home.puzzling.org  Wed Jan 26 20:50:49 2005
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From: Mary <mary-linuxchix@puzzling.org>
To: Shabana_M@Dell.com
Subject: Re: [gimp] [Courses] Subscribe to GIMP course
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Hi,

To subscribe to the GIMP course, visit
http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/options/courses, enter your email
address and password, and on the next page have a look at the question
"Which topic categories would you like to subscribe to?"

-Mary

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Sat Jan 29 14:54:01 2005
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In this lesson I'll cover cropping and scaling: the important
operations  you'll need when you upload some digital camera pictures
and want to put them on the web, or when you download a large image
and want to resize it or only keep part of it.

Let's begin with a common problem.  You have an image which you want
to put on a web site to share with your friends.  But the image is
three megapixels, half a megabyte of space, and it takes forever for
your friends to download it!  Plus it has some elements that could be
improved -- extra space around the subject that doesn't need to be
there, or your thumb in a corner of the frame. :-)

The very first step is to copy your image.  You don't want to
overwrite your lovely original image accidentally, so it's usually
safest to make a copy of the image (using cp or your normal file
manager) and edit the copy.

Remember, if you don't have your own images handy, you can download
something from the web to use for experimenting.  For a few sources for
raw material, see: http://linuxchix.org/content/courses/gimp/rawmaterial

Once you have your image selected, open it in gimp.
Either run gimp and use the File->Open dialog from the toolbox,
or, from a command line, run: gimp myphoto.jpg

Cropping

The first tool we'll use is the Crop tool.  Its purpose is to let
you pick out a rectangular area of the image which you want to keep,
and discard everything else.

The Crop tool's icon in the toolbox looks like a little knife or
scalpel, and its tooltip when you mouse over it says "Crop or Resize
an image". Click on the knife icon in the toolbox to select the tool.
The button will change to appear "pressed in", but nothing else happens
immediately when you select a tool, until you click in the image.

Now go to the image window, and move the mouse to the upper left
corner of the part of the image you want to keep.  Press the left
button down, then drag the mouse (holding the button down) to the
lower right of what you want to keep, and release the button.

Don't worry about getting the boundaries exactly right: you'll be able
to make adjustments.

As soon as you mouse down in the image window, the Crop and Resize
dialog will pop up.  Exactly where it appears on the screen is
controlled by your window manager, but most people find that it has an
uncanny knack for being right in the way of the part of the image
you're trying to crop.  So once you drag and release, you may have to
move the dialog aside so you can see what you're doing.  This is
normal.  Swearing a little is also normal. :-)

Once you've moved the dialog aside, you should see a box with
filled-in rectangles each corner.  These are the crop tool's "drag
handles": you can adjust the size and position of the box by dragging
these handles around.  The upper left and lower right drag handles
adjust the size of the box; the upper right and lower left handles
move the whole box without changing the size.  Play with that now.
Don't worry too much if you forget which is which: you can see the
box as you adjust it, so if you drag the wrong handle, just drag it
back to where it was and pick a different one.

Once you've adjusted the boundaries to your satisfaction, it's time
to look at the Crop and Resize dialog.  The dialog has three buttons:
Cancel, Resize, and Crop.

The Crop button in the dialog will crop the image, discarding the
rest.  Try it now, and see what it does!  If you don't like the
result, you can always Undo by selecting Edit->Undo, or by typing
Ctrl-Z.  That's an important feature of gimp: Ctrl-Z (or Edit->Undo)
can always undo the last operation, so it's safe to try something
even if you're not sure if it's exactly right.  Go ahead and try
that now: press the Crop button, then Undo the crop, then Edit->Redo
to crop it again.

Pressing the Resize button in the crop dialog does something similar
but subtly different: it changes the image size, without changing the
size of the visible layer (we'll talk about layers in an upcoming
lesson).  For now, I recommend not using it: use the Crop button
(or Cancel) and ignore the Resize button until later when you're
comfortable using layers.  Even then, you may find you don't use
Resize in the crop dialog very often (I never do).

Once you have the image cropped the way you want it, you may want to
Save (Ctrl-S) so you don't lose your work in case of an emergency like
a power failure.

Now I'll talk about making your image smaller for the web, but first,
a quick digression:

Zooming, and Current Image Size

In the GIMP image window, unless your image is very small, GIMP
is probably showing your image smaller than its full size.  You
can tell by looking at the image window's titlebar, which shows
the current zoom percentage.  If it says 100%, you're seeing your
image as other people would see it.  If it says anything else,
then you're not.

In GIMP 2.2, there's a zoom menu in the lower left of the image
window.  Everyone else (including 2.2), use the View->Zoom menu
(GIMP 1.2 users, right-click in the image window to see your menus).
But a faster way is to use key bindings: - zooms out (makes the image
smaller), + or =, depending on GIMP version, zooms in; and typing '1'
in the image window will always scale the image to 100%, full size.

You may notice that the window doesn't get bigger and smaller when
you zoom in; it just shows scrollbars or blank space.  If you want
the window to change size when you zoom, go back to the toolbox
window, select File->Preferences, click on the Image Windows category,
and check "Resize Window on Zoom".  Gimp 1.2 users will have to click
Save for this to be remembered; everyone else, hit OK.

Rescaling

You've cropped your image, but it's still too big to put on the web.
Usually, you want to keep web images under 640 pixels or so in the
largest dimension, because they'll take too long to download, and they
may not fit on most people's screens.  Images embedded in a web page
(e.g. thumbnails) need to be much smaller still, maybe only 150-250
pixels. How do you make a big image smaller?

You might be tempted to look for a menu item called "Resize": some
other applications use that term.  But in the GIMP, what you need is
to "Scale" the image.  ("Resize" means something else, less useful.)

Scale is in the menus, not the toolbox.  Right-click on the image
to get a menu (if you're using GIMP 2, you can use the menubar at
the top of the image window) and select Image->Scale Image... 
A dialog will appear showing the current size of the image.

The Scale dialog has two sections: Pixel Dimensions, and Print Size.
Don't get confused by these!  Pixel Dimensions are the size of the
image in pixels: for example, 640 wide by 480 high for a typical large
web image, or 1600 wide by 1200 high for a 2 megapixel camera image.
Pixel dimensions are almost always what you care about.

(Print Size is a an imaginary number indicating what paper size you
might someday want to use to print the image, if you printed it using
some program other than GIMP.  I recommend ignoring it entirely.)

Returning to the Pixel Dimensions section of the Scale dialog:
the dialog shows two pairs of adjustments, for Width and Height,
and Ratio X and Y.  GIMP will attempt to keep the image's aspect
ratio -- its ratio of width to height -- constant, unless you tell it
otherwise.  So changing only width, or only Y ratio, then hitting tab
or clicking in another field, will change all of the fields in the
Pixel Dimensions section.

Try it now!  Try changing the Width to 600, then hitting tab.  Or try
scaling the image to half its current size, by changing either Ratio X
or Ratio Y to .5, then hitting tab.  If you click on OK you can see
what the size looks like.  If you don't like what it looks like,
that's a good excuse to try the ever-useful Edit->Undo menu. :-)

On the rare occasion when you want to change an image's aspect ratio
-- make the picture look shorter and fatter, or taller and thinner --
clicking the small "chain link" icon next to Ratio X and Y (the icon
will change to a broken link) will decouple the width and height, so
that you can change them independantly.

Homework: Take a large image, crop it, and resize it to a reasonable
size for the web.

Next lesson: Image corrections. Lightening, darkening, and sharpening.

From kjh@flyballdogs.com  Sun Jan 30 13:31:00 2005
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Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 20:28:13 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 1: Cropping and Rescaling an Image
From: "Kathryn Hogg" <kjh@flyballdogs.com>
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I accidentally sent a reply to akk and not the courses list.  Sorry!

Akkana Peck said:
> Kathryn Hogg writes:
>> Since akk wants us to post our work, here's a an original image
>> http://womensfooty.com/bombshells/photos/kathryn/scan0002.CROPtop.jpg
>> (793KB)
>>
>> and here's my cropped and scaled version
>> http://womensfooty.com/bk.jpg (10KB)
>
> Yay, thanks!  Cool pic, too.
>
> Did you mean to post that to the group?  It looks like it was just
> to me.  The comment about selection and Image->Crop Image might
> be helpful for other people to know about too (though I agree
> the crop tool is probably easier once you get used to it).

What akk is talking about is that before this great course started, I
would fuddle around in gimp.  When I wanted to crop an image, I would use
the selection tool and then Image->Crop Image menu item.  It works but th=
e
selection tool doesn't allow you to make changes like the Crop tool.

>
>> I don't know if this jumping ahead or not, but sometimes I find that I
>> want to make the image bigger but not scale what is there.  I want to
>> leave the current image exactly as is but give myself more working roo=
m
>> around it.
>
> It's getting a little ahead, but that's okay.  Image->Canvas Size is
> what you want for that.  But that doesn't scale the layer, just the
> image, so then you need to do "layer to imagesize" or make another
> layer that's as big as the image's new size.  (I'll be talking about
> layers soon, probably in lesson 3.)

Looking forward to it!


--=20
Kathryn
http://womensfooty.com


From kjh@flyballdogs.com  Sun Jan 30 13:37:47 2005
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Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 20:35:07 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 1: Cropping and Rescaling an Image
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Just minutes after doing lesson 1.  I got an email from someone who was
sending me a photo for inclusion on my website.

http://www.flyballdogs.com/photos/rocky.html

That page has the cropped and resized image.  It links to the full sized
image.

--=20
Kathryn
http://womensfooty.com


From kproot@nerim.net  Sun Jan 30 21:40:11 2005
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Kathryn Hogg wrote:
> What akk is talking about is that before this great course started, I
> would fuddle around in gimp.  When I wanted to crop an image, I would use
> the selection tool and then Image->Crop Image menu item.  It works but the
> selection tool doesn't allow you to make changes like the Crop tool.

I was doing worse : use the selection tool, copy, then paste as new 
image. The crop tool was a revelation in this lesson :)

Karine

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Mon Jan 31 01:27:03 2005
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Karine Proot wrote:
> Kathryn Hogg wrote:
> 
>>When I wanted to crop an image, I would use the selection tool and
 >>then Image->Crop Image menu item.
> 
> 
> I was doing worse : use the selection tool, copy, then paste as new 
> image. The crop tool was a revelation in this lesson :)
> 

I was doing the same!
My other revelation was the two different functions of the selection 
handles.  Somewhere in the back of my mind I think I thought dragging to 
  change the size of the selection just "didn't work" some of the time. LOL

Julie


-- 

From patpeck@znet.com  Sun Jan 30 15:43:16 2005
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Akkana Peck wrote:
> But a faster way is to use key bindings: - zooms out (makes the image
> smaller), + or =, depending on GIMP version, zooms in; and typing '1'
> in the image window will always scale the image to 100%, full size.

I've been fooling with this, and I think I've got it, but I had some 
problems.  At first typing 1 in the image window didn't work at all, so 
I tried '1' with the single quotes, and it jumped to full size before 
the final '.  Then I couldn't figure out how to get it to go back. 
There doesn't seem to be an "undo" for that one.  Finally I hit on 
typing - several times, and that seemed to bring it back.  Fumbling 
efforts at best.  :-)

Also for me, in 2.0, the key bindings seem to be + and -, not + and =. 
Was this a typo, or am I weird?

> Try it now!  Try changing the Width to 600, then hitting tab.  

I sorta forgot the tab, and found by accident that you can change the 
width to 600 and click OK and the other numbers will change then, right 
before the image changes.  Either tab or no tab seems to work fine.

This is fun.  I've got to get out there and take pictures to mess with!

-- 

        ...Pat

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Patricia Peck writes:
> I've been fooling with this, and I think I've got it, but I had some 
> problems.  At first typing 1 in the image window didn't work at all, so 
> I tried '1' with the single quotes, and it jumped to full size before 
> the final '.  Then I couldn't figure out how to get it to go back. 

The quotes aren't needed.  I shouldn't have included them --
that was confusing.  Just hit the 1 key in the image window to
zoom the image to full size.

If it wasn't working before, it's possible that the image window
wasn't focused.  Depending on how you have your window manager set
up, you may need to click in a window before keys you type go to
that window.  Most window managers turn the frame of the active
window a different color from other windows, so you can know which
one will get any characters you type.

> There doesn't seem to be an "undo" for that one.  Finally I hit on 

Zooming is just a view, not anything you change in the image.
So Undo doesn't affect it.  But you can always zoom in or out
with the View->Zoom menu or with the keys.

> Also for me, in 2.0, the key bindings seem to be + and -, not + and =. 
> Was this a typo, or am I weird?

Not a typo, but maybe I wasn't clear.  - always zooms out.
To zoom in, it's either + or =, depending on what version of
gimp you're using.  On most US keyboards, + and = are on the
same key; the only difference is whether you have to hit shift
or not.  Early versions of gimp used = instead of + because it's
easier not to have to press the shift key; but they changed that
in later versions of gimp, perhaps because it's easier on some
non-US keyboards.

But if you don't like the bindings, you can change them!
I was saving that for a later lesson, but I'll mention it now
because it's so nifty.  In gimp, if you pull up a menu for
something you do often that doesn't have a key binding already,
move the mouse over the menu item (but don't click), then hit
the key you want to use (e.g. hit = or + or whatever), the
binding for that function magically changes!  You can see
it change in the menu as you type the key.

This works automatically in gimp 1.2.  Gimp 2 still has this,
but it's harder to find: go into Preferences, click on Interface,
and check "Use Dynamic Keyboard Shortcuts".  Now you can go
back to the menu and assign keys to any function.

> >Try it now!  Try changing the Width to 600, then hitting tab.  
> 
> I sorta forgot the tab, and found by accident that you can change the 
> width to 600 and click OK and the other numbers will change then, right 
> before the image changes.  Either tab or no tab seems to work fine.

Yes, absolutely!  I didn't mean to imply that you *have* to hit tab;
you can change one number and hit OK right away.  I usually hit tab
just to make sure all the numbers look kosher, before I hit OK,
but it's not actually needed.

> This is fun.  I've got to get out there and take pictures to mess with!

:-)

        ...Akkana

From patpeck@znet.com  Sun Jan 30 18:33:35 2005
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Akkana Peck wrote:
> If it wasn't working before, it's possible that the image window
> wasn't focused. 

Ah, I'll bet that was it.  I've tried it a few more times, making sure 
it was focused on the image windows, and it works fine.

> Not a typo, but maybe I wasn't clear.  - always zooms out.
> To zoom in, it's either + or =, depending on what version of
> gimp you're using.

Okay, got it, thanks.

> In gimp, if you pull up a menu for
> something you do often that doesn't have a key binding already,
> move the mouse over the menu item (but don't click), then hit
> the key you want to use (e.g. hit = or + or whatever), the
> binding for that function magically changes!  You can see
> it change in the menu as you type the key.
> 
> This works automatically in gimp 1.2.  Gimp 2 still has this,
> but it's harder to find: go into Preferences, click on Interface,
> and check "Use Dynamic Keyboard Shortcuts".  Now you can go
> back to the menu and assign keys to any function.


Oh, this is nifty!  Good tip!  Too bad they made it harder in v.2, though.

-- 

        ...Pat

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Sun Jan 30 16:02:48 2005
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Hi Akkana & everyone;

I started with two photos I took 31 December 2004, returning from a
visit to my granddaughter (who might appear in subsequent lessons  ;)
).  These landscapes were both taken at a designated "scenic overlook"
looking south at the Tennessee/North Carolina border on US Hwy 23.
They're in the following web directory:

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/lesson1/

The originals are ./004_1.jpg and ./007_4.jpg and are very large, about
400Kb, and anyone who would like to is welcome to use them. (Two other
large (over 400Kb) mountain scene images are in that directory and you
are welcome to use those as well)

The finals are ./01f.jpg and ./02.jpg, with a transitory ./01.jpg in
between cropping & scaling the first one.

./004_1.jpg(390.8k)   cropped to   ./01.jpg(49.7k)

./01.jpg(1472 x 504)   scaled to   ./01f.jpg(736 x 252 & 11.4k)

./007_4.jpg(1536 x 1024 & 403.9Kb) cropped & scaled to ./02.jpg(575 x
401 & 19.5Kb)

Probably much more information than you wanted!

Enjoy  :)
Julie



Akkana Peck wrote:
> 
> Homework: Take a large image, crop it, and resize it to a reasonable
> size for the web.
> 
> Next lesson: Image corrections. Lightening, darkening, and sharpening.
> _______________________________________________
> Courses mailing list
> Courses@linuxchix.org
> http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/listinfo/courses
> 



From kjersti.b.berg@start.no  Mon Jan 31 00:02:08 2005
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Subject: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 1: (homework done)
From: Kjersti =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnestad?= Berg <kjersti.b.berg@start.no>
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Hi everyone

Akkana: Thanks for doing this course, I have tried to learn GIMP on my
own for some time now, and I'm hoping this can get me started for real!
:-)

For the first homework I used an image of the harbour in Bergen taken
December 2004. 

You can see the pictures here:
http://home.no.net/tuttings/ 

When I saved the cropped&scaled image, I was asked what quality I
wanted. (Default was 85.) How does this value affect the final image? It
didn't seem to me to make much of a difference, but maybe I don't know
what to look for?

Anyway, I'm looking forward to the next lesson! 

Kjersti


From jon.drews@gmail.com  Mon Jan 31 07:49:55 2005
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Hi:

On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 14:02:50 +0100, Kjersti Bj=F8rnestad Berg
<kjersti.b.berg@start.no> wrote:
> Hi everyone
>=20
> Akkana: Thanks for doing this course, I have tried to learn GIMP on my
> own for some time now, and I'm hoping this can get me started for real!
> :-)
>=20
> For the first homework I used an image of the harbour in Bergen taken
> December 2004.
>=20
> You can see the pictures here:
> http://home.no.net/tuttings/

Very nice.
____________________________________
Here is a cropped and rescaled picture of my friend Merckle.
http://www.silbsd.org/beastie/merckle2.jpg

I have a few questions though. I first saved the original photo as a
GIMP *.xcf file. Then I did the cropping and rescaling. That resulted
in the above image. I also tried the "resize" setting, which is part
of the crop tool (scalpel), and found that I could not save the image
to *.jpg. It said:

 "Your image should be exported before it can be saved for the
following reasons:
               JPEG can't handle transparency"

What is the purpose of resizing or are you going to cover that later?

 Also I saved the same image as a *.png but the *.png is much larger
than the *.jpg (44k vs 409k) despite the fact that the quality appears
to be about the same. Is the *.jpg format that much better than *.png
? The *.png is here: http://www.silbsd.org/beastie/merckle2A.png
Both were saved from the same *.xcf file.

                                                  Kind regards
                                                  Jon

From mary@home.puzzling.org  Mon Jan 31 09:23:58 2005
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Subject: [Courses] [gimp] Exporting and image formats [Re: Lesson 1:
        (homework done)]
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On Sun, Jan 30, 2005, Jon Drews wrote:
>  "Your image should be exported before it can be saved for the
> following reasons:
>                JPEG can't handle transparency"
> 
> What is the purpose of resizing or are you going to cover that later?

When I do this, one of the options beneath the error message is
something like "Export Now" and you can just select it and it will save
to JPEG. I'll post a screenshot when I get home.

GIMP images support all kinds of options, including things like
transparency, layers (separate image bits piled on top of each other
which can be edited separately and switched around) and so on. Most
formats won't support all of them (xcf does for fairly obvious reasons
-- why have a custom format especially for the GIMP that doesn't?), so
you will quite frequently need to export images in order to save them in
the format you want.

The exporter is fairly sensible: it will do things like turn transparent
areas into your default background colour in formats that can't handle
transparency; and merge all the layers into one for formats that can't
handle layers.

Keep in mind that most image formats are "lossy" -- that is, they do not
store the exact state of every pixel, they store an approximation based
on regions. If you want to do extended work on a single image, it's
sometimes worth saving a copy in a lossless format (XCF is best if
you're always going to work with the GIMP) and exporting a copy for your
website or whatever each time.

>  Also I saved the same image as a *.png but the *.png is much larger
> than the *.jpg (44k vs 409k) despite the fact that the quality appears
> to be about the same. Is the *.jpg format that much better than *.png
> ? The *.png is here: http://www.silbsd.org/beastie/merckle2A.png
> Both were saved from the same *.xcf file.

They have different purposes.

 *.jpg: JPEG is a lossy format optimised for storing photos (and other
 images with regions of shading rather than blocks of colour) in a small
 amount of space.

 *.png: PNG is a lossless format optimised for storing images with large
 blocks of a single colour (as an example, imagine a flow chart or
 diagram with lots of blue boxes or something) in a small amount of
 space.

So, for a photo, yes, the JPEG version will usually be much smaller. the
PNG algorithm isn't designed to compress regions with similar shadings
like most photos have, it's designed to compress regions where all the
pixels are exactly the same colour.

Another couple of common ones:

 *.tiff: TIFF is a lossless format sometimes used for storing photos if
 you want an exact copy each time. Some digital cameras and scanner
 software produce these. People will usually convert to JPEG before
 putting these photos on the web: TIFF files are much larger than JPEGs.

 *.gif: GIF is an older format which has roughly the same use as PNG. It
 has better support than PNG in old web browsers, but was patented for a
 long time and may still be in some countries. Because it was actually
 illegal for software to produce GIF files without paying royalties,
 there was a big push a while back for Free Software users to adopt PNG
 instead. The PNG format is also meant to be technically superior, but I
 don't know exactly why.

-Mary

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Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Exporting and image formats 
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On Mon, Jan 31, 2005 at 09:22:22AM +1100, Mary wrote:
> 
> The exporter is fairly sensible: it will do things like turn transparent
> areas into your default background colour in formats that can't handle
> transparency; and merge all the layers into one for formats that can't
> handle layers.
> 
<snipped because i am going to talk about pngs>

>  *.png: PNG is a lossless format optimised for storing images with large
>  blocks of a single colour (as an example, imagine a flow chart or
>  diagram with lots of blue boxes or something) in a small amount of
>  space.
> 
<more snippage>
> 
>  *.gif: GIF is an older format which has roughly the same use as PNG. It
>  has better support than PNG in old web browsers, but was patented for a
>  long time and may still be in some countries. Because it was actually
>  illegal for software to produce GIF files without paying royalties,
>  there was a big push a while back for Free Software users to adopt PNG
>  instead. The PNG format is also meant to be technically superior, but I
>  don't know exactly why.
> 
png is a wonderful format because it handles so many different types of
image information presented in many different ways.  png can is a pita 
(especially for beginners) because it handles so many different types of
image information presented in different ways.

Jon's problem earlier with the image that could not be saved as a jpeg
but could be saved as a png is a good example of the png flexibility.
transparency is an images ability to have transparent areas displayed.
and i really meant ability in that last sentence because Jon's problem
with the size of the png is because he also saved the images ability to
display transparent even though there probably were no transparent
areas.

(similar, i am going to use my old armenian friends way of calling
everyone "he" when in need of a pronoun ....)

so png is technically superior.  it allows itself to be saved with this
transparent color ability (probably akkana will be explaining this in
future courses) or without it.  it allows itself to be saved in
different modes (also probably in future courses) like "indexed" or
"RGB" or "grayscale".  the ease of saving these files does nothing to
help users know things to do to make the file smaller.  it also saves
images with actual transparent areas in a simple and often ugly way like
gifs do or beautifully, as gifs cannot do.

the simple fix for Jon's problem was to <Image>->Image->Flatten Image
before saving.  i dont know if this made the png smaller than the jpeg
of the same format, i do know that the flattened png is much smaller
than the unflattened png.

btw, that akkana, he is doing a wonderful job with this course.  i am
anxious to read his next installation.

carol

different types of

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Tue Feb  1 04:43:01 2005
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Carol Spears wrote:
> 
>> *.gif: GIF is an older format which has roughly the same use as PNG. It
>> has better support than PNG in old web browsers, but was patented for a
>> long time and may still be in some countries. Because it was actually
>> illegal for software to produce GIF files without paying royalties,
>> there was a big push a while back for Free Software users to adopt PNG
>> instead. The PNG format is also meant to be technically superior, but I
>> don't know exactly why.
>>
> 


**obediently trots off to replace gifs with pngs**

-- 



From akkana@shallowsky.com  Mon Jan 31 12:13:44 2005
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It's so much fun seeing everybody's images!  It occurred to me that
I'm not being quite fair -- I should share homework too.  I'll give
samples starting with the next lesson.  In the meantime, I put up
an image from a hike a few months ago:
Original: http://shallowsky.com/images/percwoodduck/pb161742-orig.jpg
Cropped+resized: http://shallowsky.com/images/percwoodduck/pb161742.jpg

Kjersti Bj=F8rnestad Berg writes:
> When I saved the cropped&scaled image, I was asked what quality I
> wanted. (Default was 85.) How does this value affect the final image? I=
t
> didn't seem to me to make much of a difference, but maybe I don't know
> what to look for?

The jpeg format uses a compression which tries to get rid of parts
of the image most people won't notice anyway.  As you compress the
image smaller and smaller, the changes gradually get more noticable.

GIMP's current default of 85 is a good compromise for making the
images reasonably small to download, while still looking quite good
to almost everyone.  I usually leave the setting the way it is when
I'm saving images for my photo pages.  But sometimes I use more
compression: if I'm making an icon for a web page that I think a
lot of people will visit, I might try to make it really small,
or if I'm making a screenshot or some other large image that
doesn't have to look good, just has to get a basic idea across.

If you have time, it's fun to take an image and use "Save As" to
save as jpg with lots of different compression settings, then view
all those images and see how they differ.  You can also google for
"jpeg quality" and find some pages with example images.

Jon Drews writes:
> and found that I could not save the image
> to *.jpg. It said:
>=20
>  "Your image should be exported before it can be saved for the
> following reasons:
>                JPEG can't handle transparency"
[ ... ]
>  Also I saved the same image as a *.png but the *.png is much larger

Mary already posted a very complete answer, so I won't try to
add any more, except that if you're curious about image formats
in general, I wrote up a little primer a while ago about some
of the image formats and what they're good for.  A lot of the
info is similar to Mary's posting, but in any case it's:
http://shallowsky.com/linux/imageformats.html

Bottom line: I use png for originals, like scans, jpg for photos
on the web, and xcf (gimp's native format) for images to which I've
added extra information, like layers or text.

> What is the purpose of resizing or are you going to cover that later?

It becomes a lot more useful when you use layers, which I'll talk
about soon.  I actually don't personally use the crop tool to resize
even with layers; I use Image->Canvas Size.  But I'll describe that
in a later lesson.

        ...Akkana

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Mon Jan 31 11:15:53 2005
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Julie Sloan wrote:
> 
> Hi Akkana & everyone;
> 
> I started with two photos I took 31 December 2004, returning from a
> visit to my granddaughter (who might appear in subsequent lessons  ;)
> ).  These landscapes were both taken at a designated "scenic overlook"
> looking south at the Tennessee/North Carolina border on US Hwy 23.
> They're in the following web directory:
> 
> http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/lesson1/


I've changed the url to

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/#lesson1

Julie


-- 



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After a long weekend of car shopping, I finally sat down to do my homework ^_~

Here's the original image:
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/moonlight.jpg

Here's the crop:
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/moonlight-crop.jpg

And here's the scale:
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/moonlight-scaled.jpg

In the middle of this, I realized something that bugs me - Gimp is
erasing the Exif data from my images when I save them. Apparently,
it's a known bug, and may actually be specific to Gimp in Windows.
Still...... I like being able to look back at my pictures and see what
shutter speed and aperture I used to get that effect.

--Poppy

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Mon Jan 31 15:23:51 2005
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Poppy Casper writes:
> In the middle of this, I realized something that bugs me - Gimp is
> erasing the Exif data from my images when I save them. Apparently,
> it's a known bug, and may actually be specific to Gimp in Windows.
> Still...... I like being able to look back at my pictures and see what
> shutter speed and aperture I used to get that effect.

What version of gimp?  Gimp got EXIF handling fairly recently,
in the middle of the 2.0 series -- maybe around 2.0.4?
You still can't edit EXIF from within gimp (that's being worked
on!) but it does preserve what's there.

Apparently there are some issues with the libexif on Windows,
though, so even in newer gimps not all may be well there.

If so, do you know about jhead?  It's a great little commandline
program for displaying and editing EXIF, and one of its options
is "Copy all the exif from files in this directory to similarly
named files in this other directory", which is great for restoring
EXIF that got removed somehow.  It also has options like "Make the
image smaller by removing things like integral thumbnails".

http://www.sentex.net/~mwandel/jhead/
(Also good for anyone curious about what EXIF is and what it's good for.)

        ...Akkana

From photopoppy@gmail.com  Mon Jan 31 16:08:00 2005
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From: Poppy Casper <photopoppy@gmail.com>
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On Sun, 30 Jan 2005 20:23:36 -0800, Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com> wrote:
> 
> What version of gimp?  Gimp got EXIF handling fairly recently,
> in the middle of the 2.0 series -- maybe around 2.0.4?
> You still can't edit EXIF from within gimp (that's being worked
> on!) but it does preserve what's there.

It's 2.2.3, the newest stable.... I suspect that there might be
something that it's not pulling quite right in libexif-9 *OR* possibly
something in libexif-9 that's not liking Windows environments. I'm not
enough of a programmer to grab source code for either one and review
it to see where the problem is.

> 
> Apparently there are some issues with the libexif on Windows,
> though, so even in newer gimps not all may be well there.
> 
> If so, do you know about jhead?  It's a great little commandline
> program for displaying and editing EXIF, and one of its options
> is "Copy all the exif from files in this directory to similarly
> named files in this other directory", which is great for restoring
> EXIF that got removed somehow.  It also has options like "Make the
> image smaller by removing things like integral thumbnails".
> 
> http://www.sentex.net/~mwandel/jhead/
> (Also good for anyone curious about what EXIF is and what it's good for.)

Hey, that's pretty cool. I don't always keep my originals unmodified
(bad poppy, no cookie!) so it's only halfway to a solution for me, but
halfway is better than nothing!

--Poppy

From Alis0n@free.net.nz  Wed Feb  2 15:28:38 2005
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Hi.
I'm slow, I know. But here is the homework.

This image was originally taken on digital zoom, so is a little "fuzzy".

Original:
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v614/My-Pix/Valley_mountains_original_cropped_and_scaledl.jpg[/IMG]


Cropped and scaled:
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v614/My-Pix/f5b5b983.jpg[/IMG]

Somehow I ended up with a funny name for this...:(

Alison.

From kproot@nerim.net  Sun Jan 30 20:50:21 2005
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Hello Akkana and GIMP course followers,

I do not own any digital camera, but I use a scanner and I have the same 
problem as I scan my drawings on high resolution - the picture ends up 
being 5000 x 7000 pixels, weighing more than 100 Mo !

I have put my homework on my (not yet published) weblog. There are 
screenshots detailing Akk's lesson, but the text is in french (anyway it 
is more or less a translation of Akk's great course).
Lesson 1 is at http://edhel.nerim.net/soeurs/article.php3?id_article=11

I just saw some small differences with the description of zoom and of 
the Scale dialog :

Akkana Peck wrote:
> Zooming, and Current Image Size
> 
> In the GIMP image window, unless your image is very small, GIMP
> is probably showing your image smaller than its full size.  You
> can tell by looking at the image window's titlebar, which shows
> the current zoom percentage.  If it says 100%, you're seeing your
> image as other people would see it.  If it says anything else,
> then you're not.
I don't have anything talking about zoom in the title bar, but I have 
the zoom dropdown at the bottom.

> The Scale dialog has two sections: Pixel Dimensions, and Print Size.
> Don't get confused by these!  Pixel Dimensions are the size of the
> image in pixels: for example, 640 wide by 480 high for a typical large
> web image, or 1600 wide by 1200 high for a 2 megapixel camera image.
> Pixel dimensions are almost always what you care about.
I don't have the Print Size section, it is in another dialog in Image 
menu, called Print Size (you can see a screenshot of my Scale dialog on 
the given link, though it is in french).

Both of these remarks are true for GIMP 2.2 I got through gentoo's 
packaging system, and for cvs GIMP 2.3. I wonder if I'm the only one 
seing those that way ?

Karine

From kjh@flyballdogs.com  Mon Jan 31 05:32:10 2005
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Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 1: Cropping and Rescaling an Image
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Karine Proot said:
> I don't have anything talking about zoom in the title bar, but I have
> the zoom dropdown at the bottom.
 same here, gimp 2.2.2 on FC3

> I don't have the Print Size section, it is in another dialog in Image
> menu, called Print Size (you can see a screenshot of my Scale dialog on
> the given link, though it is in french).

ditto

--=20
Kathryn
http://womensfooty.com


From david@aeolia.co.uk  Tue Feb  1 11:15:09 2005
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From: David Sumbler <david@aeolia.co.uk>
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(Rushes in, out of breath, holding apple for Akkana)

Sorry I'm late for class!  I really wanted to do this course, but I've
not had a chance to get started until this evening.  It's great.

I've dabbled with the Gimp from time to time, but already I've learnt
a lot of tricks from this course.  I particularly like the '1' for
100% zoom, and the "dynamic keyboard shortcuts" are just brilliant!
I've changed my zoom-in to '=': I always thought that having to press
Shift was a pain.

I'm up to date now - even done my homework.  It's at
http://www.aeolia.co.uk/KY/KY_Concorde.jpg if anyone's interested.
Typical overcast day at Manchester Airport.  That's me in the pilot's
seat (in the foreground, not the big thing in the background).

Thanks so much Akkana - looking forward to the next lesson.  (And
thanks for not putting me in detention for being late.)

David

-- 

David Sumbler


From photopoppy@gmail.com  Tue Feb  1 11:20:34 2005
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From: Poppy Casper <photopoppy@gmail.com>
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I'm curious, David, what kind of camera?

If it's one that has a filter-option (i.e., install a filter on it),
and you have access to one, I think your picture would look good with
a polarization filter to block some of the glare off of the
windshield. I've considered just holding up the lens to polarized
sunglasses infront of mine (seeing as how sunglasses are way cheaper
than camera filters), but I don't know if that would even work or not.

--Poppy

On Tue, 01 Feb 2005 00:15:00 +0000, David Sumbler <david@aeolia.co.uk> wrote:
> (Rushes in, out of breath, holding apple for Akkana)
> 
> Sorry I'm late for class!  I really wanted to do this course, but I've
> not had a chance to get started until this evening.  It's great.
> 
> I've dabbled with the Gimp from time to time, but already I've learnt
> a lot of tricks from this course.  I particularly like the '1' for
> 100% zoom, and the "dynamic keyboard shortcuts" are just brilliant!
> I've changed my zoom-in to '=': I always thought that having to press
> Shift was a pain.
> 
> I'm up to date now - even done my homework.  It's at
> http://www.aeolia.co.uk/KY/KY_Concorde.jpg if anyone's interested.
> Typical overcast day at Manchester Airport.  That's me in the pilot's
> seat (in the foreground, not the big thing in the background).
> 
> Thanks so much Akkana - looking forward to the next lesson.  (And
> thanks for not putting me in detention for being late.)
> 
> David
> 
> --
> 
> David Sumbler
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Courses mailing list
> Courses@linuxchix.org
> http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/listinfo/courses
>

From wendy.mores@gmail.com  Fri Feb  4 07:24:07 2005
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Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Lesson 1: Cropping and Rescaling an Image
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I've really enjoyed all the list pics and finally got a site to upload
the ones that I've done.  Thanks Akkana for the great course.

Travelling Elmo

http://www.angelfire.com/emo2/travellingelmo/index.html



Wendy

From dkf@ncf.ca  Sun Feb 13 09:56:43 2005
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Procrastination will be the death of me, but here's my homework for 
lesson the first:

http://www.deanne.ca/gimplessons/lesson1_orig.jpg is the original photo, 
which I resized in order to put it online

http://www.deanne.ca/gimplessons/lesson1.jpg is the cropped photo, which 
didn't need resizing, because cropping it made it small enough for the web


Deanne

From kyriem2@comcast.net  Tue Feb 15 00:01:50 2005
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Heh, I wouldn't feel so bad about the procrastination. I've had my pics 
done for quite some time, just got around to posting them.

Much like Dean's, I have an original photo and an un-resized image due 
to it came out so small when cropped.

Original - http://home.comcast.net/~kyriem2/CAT0010.jpg

Cropped - http://home.comcast.net/~kyriem2/Barbie_01.jpg

- Franz

P.S. - The little kitten's name is Barbie or sometimes affectionately 
called 'my little girlfriend.'

D. Fountaine wrote:

> Procrastination will be the death of me, but here's my homework for 
> lesson the first:
>
> http://www.deanne.ca/gimplessons/lesson1_orig.jpg is the original 
> photo, which I resized in order to put it online
>
> http://www.deanne.ca/gimplessons/lesson1.jpg is the cropped photo, 
> which didn't need resizing, because cropping it made it small enough 
> for the web
>
>
> Deanne
> _______________________________________________
> Courses mailing list
> Courses@linuxchix.org
> http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/listinfo/courses
>


From jon.drews@gmail.com  Sun Jan 30 03:05:40 2005
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Hi:

 I would like to enroll in the GIMP course. I have a little
familiarity with it (cropping and resizing) but not enough to do
anything significant. I would like to learn more.

                       Kind regards,
                       Jon

From mary@home.puzzling.org  Sun Jan 30 09:43:24 2005
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From: Mary <mary-linuxchix@puzzling.org>
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Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] GIMP Course
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On Sat, Jan 29, 2005, Jon Drews wrote:
> Hi:
> 
>  I would like to enroll in the GIMP course. I have a little
> familiarity with it (cropping and resizing) but not enough to do
> anything significant. I would like to learn more.

There is no enrolment. Just make sure that you're subscribed to the
"GIMP beginners" topic at
http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/options/courses and start reading
the lessons :)

-Mary

From kristi@erdves.lt  Mon Jan 31 19:27:52 2005
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... just a link to add to your list of image galleries:
 
http://www.fotocommunity.de/pc/pc/channel/2/extra/new/startpic/32
 
Please keep noted that free-to-use distribution images are only in the
"gallerie" section, which you get directly if you follow the link.
Enjoy!
 
Best wishes,
Kristina

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Subject: [Courses] [gimp] Images
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2005 10:29:17 +0200
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Sorry for not including the keywords in the subject in my last msg!
 
-----Original Message-----
From: kristi [mailto:kristi@erdves.lt] 
Sent: 2005 m. sausio 31 d. 10:28
To: 'courses@linuxchix.org'
Subject: Images


... just a link to add to your list of image galleries:
 
http://www.fotocommunity.de/pc/pc/channel/2/extra/new/startpic/32
 
Please keep noted that free-to-use distribution images are only in the
"gallerie" section, which you get directly if you follow the link.
Enjoy!
 
Best wishes,
Kristina

From patpeck@znet.com  Tue Feb  1 14:38:30 2005
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Okay, teach and classmates, here's my homework for this week.

The photo labeled just "clouds" is the original, but scaled so as not to 
take up too much room;  the one with all the extra letters (cryptography 
for cr(opped) and S(caled) is the homework.

It's one of the very first shots I took with my new digital camera after 
Christmas - of clouds over the Verdugo Hills after a rain, shot from the 
roof of Ikea's parking lot in Burbank, CA.  Much prettier than the usual 
smoggy hill views.

The third photo, "leafy" is my favorite creature in the Long Beach 
aquarium, the leafy seadragon, also cropped and scaled.

Looking forward to Lesson 2,

-- 

        ...Pat

From patpeck@znet.com  Tue Feb  1 14:46:19 2005
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Mary wrote:
> Did you forget to provide a URL? (The list will strip attachments I
> think.)

Sure did!  So I just posted the whole thing again, maybe right this 
time.  Duh.  :-)

-- 

        ...Pat

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Tue Feb  1 14:46:55 2005
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Patricia Peck wrote:
> Okay, teach and classmates, here's my homework for this week.



Where?  :)

Julie
-- 


From patpeck@znet.com  Tue Feb  1 14:44:49 2005
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Oops, dummy!  Forgot to put the link.  So here's the whole message over 
again, with link:

Okay, teach and classmates, here's my homework for this week.

http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck

The photo labeled just "clouds" is the original, but scaled so as not to 
take up too much room;  the one with all the extra letters (cryptography 
for cr(opped) and S(caled) is the homework.

It's one of the very first shots I took with my new digital camera after 
Christmas - of clouds over the Verdugo Hills after a rain, shot from the 
roof of Ikea's parking lot in Burbank, CA.  Much prettier than the usual 
smoggy hill views.

The third photo, "leafy" is my favorite creature in the Long Beach 
aquarium, the leafy seadragon, also cropped and scaled.

Looking forward to Lesson 2,

-- 

        ...Pat

From shirrell@pstat.com  Wed Feb  2 03:41:28 2005
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Subject: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 1:Cropping and Rescaling an image
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I have moved 4 pictures to our web site;

http://www.pstat.com/jpg/horse1.jpg     is one of the horses statues 
from Rochester N.Y. which
                                                                 were 
on display in 2001.  I have many more that could be
                                                                 made 
available.
http://www.pstat.com/jpg/Cougarx.jpg  Cougar is a mustang who belongs to 
our neightbors but lives in
                                                                 our 
back field and barn.  This is the picture that i resized
                                                                 for 
lesson 1.
http://www.pstat.com/jpg/cisco1.jpg       Cisco is of Tennessee walker 
parentage.  He also lives in our
                                                                  back 
field.  This shows both horses and Wolfgang our
                                                                   
German shepard.
http://www.pstat.com/jpg/cisco1x.jpg     This is cut down from 1800 
pixels to 640 pixels.  to
                                                                   
complete lesson 1.

I will probably be working mostly with horse and dog pictures.  So far 
this is great fun

Shirrell@pstat.com




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There's http://www.sxc.hu/

Need to register in order to dwnl full photos.

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 Here is my homework.
I am using both gimp for windows and linux.
http://photos.svapanti.com/GIMPLessons

-christina 
From akkana@shallowsky.com  Sat Feb  5 04:29:38 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
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Subject: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 2: Lightening, Darkening, Sharpening
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In lesson 1, we learned how to take a photo and crop and resize it.
But what if the image isn't quite right?  What if it's too light,
or too dark?  What if it isn't quite sharp?  Can we fix that?

For this lesson, I'm going to use a photo I took of an Audubon's
Warbler in my backyard (already cropped):

http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson2/warbler-orig.jpg

It's not a very good picture.  It was an overcast day, and the
camera exposed for the bright sky and not for the bird.  I didn't
compensate for that, so it's too dark.  In addition, it's not very
sharp.  But I didn't have a photo of one of these warblers before,
so I wanted to try to save it.

The first thing to do was to try to fix the exposure. If an image is
too dark, or two light, there may not be enough information there to
make a good photo.  But there's more information there than you can
see with your eyes, so it's always worth a try!  You may get something.

Simple photo editors generally give you sliders for "brightness" and
"contrast".  GIMP has those, but it also offers two other ways of
changing these parameters.  Let's compare them.

A quick digression: all of these brightness/contrast tools will
be in the Colors menu.  In GIMP 2, you'll find Colors in the image
window menu, under Layers->Colors.  In GIMP 1.2, it's also in the
image window menu (remember, right-click to see the menus) under
Image->Colors.  Since we'll be choosing several different options
under the Colors menu, let's take advantage of a helpful feature
in Gimp's menus: "tear-offs".  Call up the Colors menu (the first
item will be something like "Color Balance") and notice that at
the top of that menu, there's a dotted line: --------
Click on that dotted line, and the Colors menu becomes a separate
window on your desktop, which you can move to any convenient place.
Now you don't have to go through all those layers of menus for each of
the following options.

Now, from the Colors menu, call up Brightness-Contrast... to get
the basic brightness/contrast sliders.  Play with these sliders
and get a feel for what they do.  Maybe they're all you need.
But when you're done experimenting, Cancel out of that (or Undo
whatever you did) because we're going to try the other techniques too.

The next brightness adjustment method is the Curves tool: Colors->Curves...
This is my personal favorite.  It shows you the same histogram as
the Levels tool did, but instead of the two sets of sliders, your
adjustment is a diagonal line.  Grab the line anywhere with the mouse,
and drag it up-right or down-left, and watch how the image changes.

You can make fairly complicated adjustments with the Curves tool.
For example, if the dark parts of your photo are too dark but the
light parts are all right, after you've dragged the line out to
one side or the other, click on it again somewhere else, and drag
it in a different direction.  You can make curves shaped like s, w,
or anything you want, and the shape of your curve controls the
brightness of different parts of your image.  I won't try to describe
the mathematical colorspace transformations going on here: just grab
the line and pull it around and see what it does!  Keep fiddling
until your image looks better.

The final method is the Levels tool: Colors->Levels...
The Levels tool is the most complicated, but it's very powerful.

The Levels dialog has two sets of controls: Input Levels, and Output
Levels.  Input Levels shows a histogram representing the current
brightness of the image.  If it's pretty even, then the histogram
should be filled in fairly evenly.  If it's way over- or
under-exposed, then the histogram probably shows a spike over to
the left or the right.

Both Input and Output have sliders which you can play with to make
the image brighter or darker, more or less contrasty.  Don't neglect
the middle slider (also called "gamma value", if you've heard that
term before) under Input Levels -- you can fine-tune the contrast
of the image with it.  You can also use the "eyedropper" buttons under
the Input Levels slider to pick points in your image which should be
all black or all white: click on the eyedropper button, then click at
the right place in the image.

One final thing you may notice about the Levels dialog is the Auto
button.  This is theoretically comparable to the "Auto Levels" in
some other photo editing programs; but in practice, I find that
it almost never chooses the right values.  (This may say more
about which photos I try it on than it does about the Auto Levels
button, however.)  It's always worth a try; you have the Reset
and Cancel buttons there if you don't like the effect.

I find Levels much more complicated to use than Curves, but I
know people who swear by Levels, because they find the histogram
so useful.  Try both, and use whichever you like best.

You may have noticed that both the Levels tool and the Curves tool
have a Channel menu at the top of the dialog.  This defaults to Value
(which you can think of as meaning total brightness), but you can also
choose Red, Green, Blue, or Alpha (Alpha means transparency).  You can
use these tools to make fairly subtle shifts in the color of an image.
That's way beyond the scope of this lesson (and I'm not very good at
it anyway!) but if you have an image with an unwanted color cast,
Levels and Curves are among the many color tools which might help.

One final note on brightness correction: in the Colors menu under the
Auto submenu (not related to Auto Levels) are several filters which
are supposed to correct for brightness problems: in particular,
Equalize and Normalize.  I haven't generally found them to help my
images, but give them a try -- maybe they'll work for you.  If they
don't, just Undo and try something else.

Here's my warbler, brightened up by fiddling with the Curves tool
(only one point on the curve): 

http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson2/warbler-brighter.jpg

SHARPENING

Okay, you have your lighte image.  But it's still fuzzy!

GIMP has two ways of sharpening: they're both in the Filters->Enhance
menu (you can use the tear-off to make this menu conveniently visible
while you're doing this).

The first is Sharpen...  It has a preview area, and a slider where
you can choose how much to sharpen the image.  Too much sharpening
makes an image speckly; too TOO much can "posterize" it almost beyond
recognition.  Go ahead, play with it and see.

The second is Unsharp Mask.  This is a confusing name: you don't
want to make the image unsharp, you want to make it sharper!  (The
name comes from the way the algorithm is implemented: it makes a
blurry copy of the image, then uses that in various transformations
to make the original image sharper.)  Some image editing programs
call this "Sharpen More" or something like that, to avoid this
confusion, but "Unsharp Mask" is really what this procedure is called.

Unsharp Mask has three parameters: radius, amount, and threshold.
Radius generally affects how local the sharpening will be; amount
controls how strongly the effect will be applied; and threshold
controls how different nearby pixels have to be before any sharpening
will take place.

Unsharp Mask very often gives better results than Sharpen.  But
unfortunately, since it has three parameters and no preview, it
can take a while of experimenting and Undo to find just the right
settings.  It can be worth it, though, if you have a photo you really
want to keep and there's no chance of taking another shot with better
focus.

Here's my warbler, sharpened with 4.5, .25, and 0:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson2/warbler-sharper.jpg

and with more than that, illustrating how graining over-sharpened
images can become:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson2/warbler-toosharp.jpg

There you go -- you have a brighter, darker, or sharper image!

Homework: show an image you've modified in any of these ways.

Next Lesson: Introduction to Layers, and the Text Tool.
Let's make a Valentine's Day card!

From mary@home.puzzling.org  Sat Feb  5 07:56:44 2005
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Subject: [Courses] [gimp] Duplicate images (Re: Lesson 2: Lightening,
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On Fri, Feb 04, 2005, Akkana Peck wrote:
> Now, from the Colors menu, call up Brightness-Contrast... to get the
> basic brightness/contrast sliders.  Play with these sliders and get a
> feel for what they do.  Maybe they're all you need.  But when you're
> done experimenting, Cancel out of that (or Undo whatever you did)
> because we're going to try the other techniques too.

Another thing you can potentially do here is make a duplicate of the
image. You could of course do this by just making a copy of the file,
but GIMP can make a duplicate itself -- just the same image in a new
window. In GIMP 2, you go to the menu, select images and the
"Duplicate".

A second window will open up with the same image in it. Do keep an eye
on the title bars at the top of the image: one will have the original
file name in it, the other will have "Untitled-1.0" or something.

Anyway, thought I'd point this out because when I'm using different
techniques on an image, I like to open up a duplicate or two and try
them out separately.

-Mary

From lawgon@thenilgiris.com  Sat Feb  5 17:58:15 2005
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 2: Lightening, Darkening, Sharpening
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On Friday 04 Feb 2005 10:59 pm, Akkana Peck wrote:
> In lesson 1, we learned how to take a photo and crop and resize it.
> But what if the image isn't quite right?  What if it's too light,
> or too dark?  What if it isn't quite sharp?  Can we fix that?
>
> For this lesson, I'm going to use a photo I took of an Audubon's
> Warbler in my backyard (already cropped):
>
> http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson2/warbler-orig.jpg

hey cool, i clicked this and gimp opened with the image - long live firefox!
-- 
regards
kg

tally ho! http://avsap.sourceforge.net

From cabucholtz@yahoo.com.au  Sun Feb  6 10:18:10 2005
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From: Carolyn Bucholtz <cabucholtz@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 2: Lightening, Darkening, Sharpening
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Thank you, Akkana, for running this course.

> under the Colors menu, let's take advantage of a helpful feature
> in Gimp's menus: "tear-offs".  Call up the Colors menu (the first
> item will be something like "Color Balance") and notice that at
> the top of that menu, there's a dotted line: --------

A couple of days ago I compiled gimp 2.2.3 using all the latest
packages, gtk+, glib etc under mandrake 9.1 and I don't seem to have
the tear-off feature, there is no dotted line in the Colors menu. Is
this something that needs to be switched on? I couldn't see anything
in the Preferences menu,

Cheers,
Carolyn

Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
http://au.movies.yahoo.com

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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 2: Lightening, Darkening, Sharpening
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Woot!

I went out for a wander this afternoon, and came back with some great
pics that just needed a little bit of sharpening (very little
lightening/darkening, but I'm sure I've got some around to practice
that on)

The original pic (scaled down)
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/Scaled.JPG

The sharpened pic:
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/RedWing.JPG

*wanders off to do the awesome pictures dance*

--Poppy

On Sun, 6 Feb 2005 10:17:56 +1100 (EST), Carolyn Bucholtz
<cabucholtz@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
> Thank you, Akkana, for running this course.
> 
> > under the Colors menu, let's take advantage of a helpful feature
> > in Gimp's menus: "tear-offs".  Call up the Colors menu (the first
> > item will be something like "Color Balance") and notice that at
> > the top of that menu, there's a dotted line: --------
> 
> A couple of days ago I compiled gimp 2.2.3 using all the latest
> packages, gtk+, glib etc under mandrake 9.1 and I don't seem to have
> the tear-off feature, there is no dotted line in the Colors menu. Is
> this something that needs to be switched on? I couldn't see anything
> in the Preferences menu,
> 
> Cheers,
> Carolyn
> 
> Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
> http://au.movies.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> Courses mailing list
> Courses@linuxchix.org
> http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/listinfo/courses
>

From cabucholtz@yahoo.com.au  Sun Feb  6 13:20:45 2005
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From: Carolyn Bucholtz <cabucholtz@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 2: Lightening, Darkening, Sharpening
To: courses@linuxchix.org
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I've solved the problem !  I only get the tearoff menus if I go to
the menus via the right mouse click in the image window - the menus
at the top of the image window don't have the tearoff option,

Cheers,
Carolyn


> > Thank you, Akkana, for running this course.
> >=20
> > > under the Colors menu, let's take advantage of a helpful
> feature
> > > in Gimp's menus: "tear-offs".  Call up the Colors menu (the
> first
> > > item will be something like "Color Balance") and notice that at
> > > the top of that menu, there's a dotted line: --------
> >=20
> > A couple of days ago I compiled gimp 2.2.3 using all the latest
> > packages, gtk+, glib etc under mandrake 9.1 and I don't seem to
> have
> > the tear-off feature, there is no dotted line in the Colors menu.
> Is
> > this something that needs to be switched on? I couldn't see
> anything
> > in the Preferences menu,
> >=20
> > Cheers,
> > Carolyn


Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
http://au.movies.yahoo.com

From kproot@nerim.net  Sun Feb  6 23:24:24 2005
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 2: Lightening, Darkening, Sharpening
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Carolyn Bucholtz wrote:
> I've solved the problem !  I only get the tearoff menus if I go to
> the menus via the right mouse click in the image window - the menus
> at the top of the image window don't have the tearoff option,

Congratulations, I was unable to solve this alone ;) Because I never use 
the context menus...

That lesson was very useful to me, as I had a drawing that was way too 
bright compared to the original (yeah, I'm just able to reproduce 
things...), and my sister will be happy to learn how to sharpen all 
those pics she's got.

So, homework (and french translation) is done and you can see the 
results at http://edhel.nerim.net/soeurs/article.php3?id_article=12

Karine

From shirrell@pstat.com  Mon Feb  7 03:08:06 2005
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That is so much fun!   Unfortunately I have gimp 1.2 and sharpen does
not work.  I will upgrade.  My homework can be seen at:

     http://www.pstat.com/jpg/horse19_before.jpg       and
     http://www.pstat.com/jpg/horse19_after.jpg

Shirrell


From almut-behrens@gmx.net  Mon Feb  7 03:50:43 2005
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On Sun, Feb 06, 2005 at 11:02:57AM -0500, Shirrell wrote:
> That is so much fun!   Unfortunately I have gimp 1.2 and sharpen does
> not work.  I will upgrade.

...strange.  For me it has always worked, even way back in gimp 0.99.
Maybe you're inadvertently applying it to some wrong layer, selection,
or so..  so the effect you get differs from what you expect?

In such cases, I usually do a "unselect-all" (Ctrl-Shift-A) and
"flatten-image", before I try again...

Almut


From kjh@flyballdogs.com  Mon Feb  7 04:55:28 2005
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Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2005 11:55:08 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 2: Lightening, Darkening, Sharpening
From: "Kathryn Hogg" <kjh@flyballdogs.com>
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My lesson #2 results are at

http://womensfooty.com/gimpclass/lesson2

I'm not as happy with the lightening/darkening part.  I haven't quite
figured out how to lighten the parts I want (people's faces) without doin=
g
the same to the sky and grass.  I'll keep experimenting.

One thing I did notice is that if you use one of the selection tools, the
algorithms will then apply to just the selected area.

Also with gimp 2.2.3 there is a preview option in the "Unsharp Mask" tool=
.

--=20
Kathryn
http://womensfooty.com


From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Mon Feb  7 16:06:18 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 2: Lightening, Darkening, Sharpening
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On Friday 04 February 2005 12:29 pm, Akkana Peck wrote:
>
> image window menu (remember, right-click to see the menus) under
> Image->Colors.  Since we'll be choosing several different options
> under the Colors menu, let's take advantage of a helpful feature
> in Gimp's menus: "tear-offs". 

Wow!  That's a nice feature.

Here is my homework:
http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/sew.htm

I went quite crazy in the color menu for quite a long time.  ...at one point 
in the Curves menu I had the graph looking like a heart monitor gone bad 
and some pretty wacky color combinations.  Then I settled down.  ;-)

I found Unsharp Mask to be a lot more effective than Sharpen, but a preview 
pane sure would be nice.  Thanks Mary for pointing out the Duplicate 
feature.  I'm using Gimp 1.2.5 and it's in the same place:  Image > 
Duplicate.

I'm not sure which of the three images I am calling "final" is best... none 
are very good  :)  but what I had to begin with was pretty bad!  At least 
now you can tell it's a sewing machine.  Sort of.

I am not very good at this.  :/

Julie

-- 


>
> Here's my warbler, brightened up by fiddling with the Curves tool
> (only one point on the curve):
>
> http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson2/warbler-brighter.jpg
>




From mary@home.puzzling.org  Mon Feb  7 16:15:38 2005
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From: Mary <mary-linuxchix@puzzling.org>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 2: Lightening, Darkening, Sharpening
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On Mon, Feb 07, 2005, Julie Sloan wrote:
> I am not very good at this.  :/

I think it's really a question of practice, on a bunch of images.

I did a drawing class on the weekend and something that was mentioned is
that our brains are GREAT at recognising faces and picking out things
from them, and hence also great at finding things wrong with them.
Unless you're an artist, you spend a lot more time looking at and
processing faces than you do producing faces. Hence when you start
drawing faces, your critical faculty is way ahead of your drawing
faculty.

In exactly the same way, you spend time every day seeing light and
shadow and processing it. You have decades of experience in processing
light patterns. Unless you do image manipulation though (or possibly
have experience in realistic drawing and/or manual photography), you
probably have very little experience in producing light patterns
yourself.

In both cases, your lifetime experience in seeing and processing makes
you a very harsh critic of your production. So... just practice :) After
a few photos you'll be better at saving photos that can be saved and
recognising ones that just don't have the information in them.

-Mary

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Tue Feb  8 04:58:41 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 2: Lightening, Darkening, Sharpening
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On Monday 07 February 2005 12:14 am, Mary wrote:
> On Mon, Feb 07, 2005, Julie Sloan wrote:
> > I am not very good at this.  :/
>
> I think it's really a question of practice, on a bunch of images.
>
> In both cases, your lifetime experience in seeing and processing makes
> you a very harsh critic of your production. So... just practice :) After
> a few photos you'll be better at saving photos that can be saved and
> recognising ones that just don't have the information in them.
>


:)  thanks

Julie

-- 

From patpeck@znet.com  Mon Feb  7 18:21:24 2005
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Julie Sloan wrote:
> I am not very good at this.  :/

Join the club!  I think most of us, certainly I, will need lots of
practice.  One thing I'm learning from this course is that you can spend
a LOT of time fiddling with an image and never think you've got it quite
right.  I was about to go back and completely re-do my homework to get
it, if not perfect, at least better, but I decided to just go ahead and
post it and watch myself improve as the weeks go on.

The homework this week is a very skittish squirrel who finally stayed 
still long enough for a photo.  I thought I had turned my flash off, but
no-ooo, so the "base" photo had weird eyeballs, and I got a bit ahead of
myself trying to get rid of them. I was thinking he'd look cuter if I
made the eye bigger, like a cartoon squirrel, but then decided to wait 
for the appropriate lesson to work on that.  Anyway, here's my homework.

The original is:

http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/Lesson2base.jpg

The doctored one is:

http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/Lesson2complete.jpg

---

        ...Pat


From kjersti.b.berg@start.no  Wed Feb  9 01:29:50 2005
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Hi all

I've now uploaded my homework, here: http://home.no.net/tuttings/

I read an article in a (norwegian) magazine about Gimp, and the author
recommended using the Unsharp Mask tool on the L-layer only. (Luminance?
You can decompose an image into different color layers, and choosing LAB
gives you a Luminance layer). I tried this as well, but for the image I
used I didn't see a huge difference. Anyone else tried this/has
comments?

> I found Unsharp Mask to be a lot more effective than Sharpen, but a preview 
> pane sure would be nice.  Thanks Mary for pointing out the Duplicate 
> feature.  I'm using Gimp 1.2.5 and it's in the same place:  Image > 
> Duplicate.

I'm using version 2.2.3 and it has a previewpane for the Unsharp Mask. 
> 
> I'm not sure which of the three images I am calling "final" is best.
> 

I liked the second one best, although the colors were a bit distorted.
The other ones look a bit pale, so the details were more clear in the
second one.

Look forward to lesson 3!

Kjersti


From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Wed Feb  9 22:58:27 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 2: Lightening, Darkening, Sharpening
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2005 06:59:08 -0500
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On Tuesday 08 February 2005 09:31 am, Kjersti Bj=F8rnestad Berg wrote:
> Julie Sloan wrote:
>
> > I found Unsharp Mask to be a lot more effective than Sharpen, but a
> > preview pane sure would be nice. =20
>
> I'm using version 2.2.3 and it has a previewpane for the Unsharp Mask.

I'll look forward to getting v2.2.3    :)


> > I'm not sure which of the three images I am calling "final" is best.
>
> I liked the second one best, although the colors were a bit distorted.
> The other ones look a bit pale, so the details were more clear in the
> second one.

That's the problem I often find when lightening:  the image looks surrounde=
d=20
by fog.

Julie

=2D-=20

From wendy.mores@gmail.com  Tue Feb  8 11:09:39 2005
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From: Wendy Mores <wendy.mores@gmail.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 2: Lightening, Darkening, Sharpening
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Here's homework number 2.

Just lightening and sharpening.

http://www.angelfire.com/emo2/travellingelmo/


Wendy

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From: Jon Drews <jon.drews@gmail.com>
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Ok Akkana:

On Fri, 4 Feb 2005 09:29:33 -0800, Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com> wrote:
> In lesson 1, we learned how to take a photo and crop and resize it.
> But what if the image isn't quite right?  What if it's too light,
> or too dark?  What if it isn't quite sharp?  Can we fix that?

Before:
http://www.silbsd.org/beastie/photo004reduced.jpg

After Contrasting, brightening and sharpening.

http://www.silbsd.org/beastie/Mountain.jpg

 I realize I am a little behind here but a few quick questions:

1) I should always save in the native *.xcf before doing alterations?
I did that with this image.

2) These images were large so I worked on them in their original large
size and then reduced them using the techniques from lesson 1. Is that
the proper thing to do or should I reduce them first? Which sequence
gives better image quality: alter first and then reduce or reduce and
then alter ?

  I must say this really quite a good course Akkana. Thanks!

                                                   Kind regards,
                                                   Jonathan

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Fri Feb 11 05:09:44 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
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Subject: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 3: Introduction to Layers and Text
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In this lesson, we'll begin working with layers, and in the process,
we'll make a simple greeting card.  With Valentine's Day coming up,
I'll make a Valentine's card as my example.  Of course you're free
to make anything you want -- a friendship card, a poster for a
project, or perhaps just a picture with a funny caption to put on
the web or post on your wall.

I'm posting this lesson a day early in case there's anyone who wants
extra time to make a card before Monday.

THE LAYERS DIALOG

I know layers sound intimidating.  I avoided using them for a long
time myself.  But once I finally took the plunge, I realized they were
really a lot simpler than I'd thought -- I wished I'd taken the plunge
much earlier!

To work with layers, you'll want to make sure the Layers dialog is
showing.  Once you learn how to work with layers, you'll probably
want this dialog visible all the time.  GIMP turns it on by default,
but in case you closed it at some point, it's easy to get it back: use
the Toolbox window, File->Dialogs->Layers.  In gimp 1.2, it's called
"Layers, Channels, and Paths" but it's still in File->Dialogs.

We'll talk about channels and paths in later lessons; for now, you'll
only need the leftmost tab in the dialog, "Layers".

THE BASE LAYER

The first step is to choose the perfect image for your card.  I found
just the thing in a batch I took at the SF Zoo a few years ago:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson3/penguin-orig.jpg

If you're going to be printing your image out, use as large an image
as possible (a 2 megapixel camera image is plenty for a half-page
card, a 1.3 megapixel image is probably fine if the recipient isn't
super picky).  If it's for the web, you're probably best off using the
size you're going to use in the final web image, because text often
doesn't look as good when it's resized.  Open your image in gimp, and
crop/resize as needed.  Leave some space for text, though.
(I'll post my examples resized for the web, though I'm actually
working on a full-sized image since I'll be printing mine.)

SET THE TEXT COLOR

Before we actually create the text, we need to choose what color it
will be.  In the toolbox, right under the rows of tools, are two
squares (one on top of the other) showing two colors: probably
black in front, and white behind it.  These are the current foreground
and background colors.

Change the foreground color by clicking on the foreground color (the
black square).  Gimp's color picker window will pop up.

In-depth use of the color picker is a topic for later, but for now,
either use the sliders next to R, G, and B (for Red, Green, and Blue)
to choose a color; or drag up and down in the rainbow column to change
the hue, then drag up and to the right in the big shaded box to make
the color brighter; or (in gimp 2) click on one of the predefined
colors.  The color you pick will show up under Current, and also
back in the toolbox window in place of the black square.  I'm picking
yellow.

MAKE SOME TEXT

Select the Text tool: click on the T in the toolbox.  Then click
somewhere in the image.  I click generally near where I want the text
to end up, but it's not critical; we'll position the text later.

The text dialog pops up.  This is very different depending on version.

Gimp 2: the dialog itself just has a textarea where you can type in
your text.  Type your desired text here (multiple lines are okay).
All the other options are back in the tool options dialog:
this might be visible as a separate dialog, or it might be "docked"
in the toolbox window underneath the fg/bg color swatches.  If all
else fails and you can't find the text options, try, in the Toolbox,
File->Dialogs->Tool Options and see if it pops up.
Once you've found the Text Options, you can use the menus there to
change font face and size, and other details like color and spacing.
Happily, gimp shows a live preview in the image window, so you can
fiddle with things and see what happens.

Gimp 1: The dialog is much bigger and has the font and size pickers
right there, as well as the preview.  But there's a confusing gotcha:
the preview in the dialog shows the font as it will look when the
image is at 100%.  If the image is zoomed smaller, then once you
click OK in the dialog, the font will show up that much smaller.
You may find that you have to try it, then Undo, then try it again
with a different size, several times before you get it the size you
want.

In both gimp 2 (during the preview phase) and gimp 1 (after you click
ok), the text is surrounded by dotted lines and it's hard to tell
exactly what it looks like.  Right now, just get it the right size,
and click OK or Close.

My image with some text added: 
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson3/penguin-text.jpg

WORKING WITH LAYERS

Look at the Layers dialog.  Notice that while there was only one entry
there before, now there are two: one for the base image, and one for
the text.  You're working with layers now!

In gimp 1.2, the text layer will be labelled as "Floating Selection".
(Gimp 2 users can skip this paragraph.)  That means i's a sort of a
fake temporary layer.  We'll be working with real layers here, so you
need to convert it.  To do that, go to the button at the bottom left
of the Layers dialog, with a "new document" icon (like a piece of
paper with one corner folded over) -- if you hover over it, the
tooltip says "New Layer".  Click this, and the layer's name should
change to "Text Layer".

Why a layer?  Gimp could have just painted your text right on the
image.  But because it's in a layer of its own, you can move the text
around, change it, or delete it, without risking any damage to the
original photo below.

The first thing we're going to do with the text layer is move it.
Go back to the toolbox, and find the Move tool.  It's a pair of
crossed arrows, one vertical, one horizontal; it's probably right
above the T of the text tool, and its tooltip says "Move Layers &
Selections".  Click it.

Now move your mouse back into the image, move the mouse slowly toward
the text, and watch the cursor carefully.  In most of the image, the
cursor should look like a pointing hand, but as you move over the new
text, the cursor should change to the crossed arrows of the Move tool.
It's good to get in the habit of watching the mouse cursor as you move
in the image: a lot of gimp's tools will change the cursor like this
to give you clues about what you can do.

Once you're over the image, and seeing a Move cursor, hold the left
button down and drag the text layer to exactly where you want it
in the image.  The beauty of layers is that if you change your mind,
you will be able to move the layer again at any time.

Tip: When you want to move a specific layer, first make sure that
layer is selected in the Layers dialog.  That way, you can watch the
mouse cursor to make sure you're moving the right layer.  You *can*
click on another layer, and gimp will switch to that layer and start
moving it instead, but when you have several layers built up, that
can get confusing.  If you do move the wrong layer, though, "Undo"
works to undo a layer move.

At this point you have a fairly nice card!  You can add more text,
in different colors or fonts.  Adding the person's name is a nice
touch, so they know you made it for them personally.
Make a separate layer for each new piece of text.  If you want
to go back and move one of the earlier layers, you can click on
that layer in the Layers dialog to make it the active layer.

SAVE AS XCF

If you want GIMP to remember details such as layers, you have to use
GIMP's native format: XCF.  So, the first time you save,
use an image name that ends in .xcf.  Now you can read the image back
in at any time and not lose any details.

XCF is big.  You don't want to put an XCF on the web, unless you're
collaborating with another gimp user.  Web browsers can't view it anyway.
But it's the only format to use when you're working on an image
with lots of edits.

When you have your image finished, if you want to put it on the web
or mail it to someone, you'll want to make a copy in some more common
format, such as .jpg.  In gimp 2, you can "Save a Copy" (in the file
menu) to filename.jpg.  But gimp 1 doesn't have "Save a Copy", so
you have to use "Save as" to filename.jpg, which changes the image's
current name, so if you make more changes and want to save to xcf
again after that, you have to use "Save As" again.

Finally: when you save to another format, like jpg, gimp will warn
you that jpg can't handle layers, can't handle transparency, etc.
Just click Export and let gimp handle the conversion.

LAYER VISIBILITY

Notice, in the Layers dialog, how each layer has an eyeball icon to
the left of it?  This controls visibility of the layer.  Click on the
eye, and the layer becomes invisible.  Click again where the eye used
to be, and it becomes visible again.

When you save to a format other than XCF, gimp will save the image
as it looks to you.  So if you have a layer that's invisible, that
layer won't show up when you save a jpg or png.

You can use this to make a card with several alternate sets of text.
For example, you could make one text layer that says "To Fred", and
another text layer that says "To Joe", and use the eyeballs to turn on
only one at a time, and save to fred.jpg and joe.jpg.  Just hope Fred
and Joe never get together to show each other the cool Valentine's
cards they got from you! :-)

DROP SHADOW

One final note.  In my penguin card, 
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson3/penguin-text.jpg
the area around the text is very busy, which makes it hard to read
the text.  An easy trick to make the text look prettier, and make
it easier to read against a mixed background, is to use a "drop
shadow".

In a later lesson we'll see how drop shadows are made, but
you don't need to know that now.  In the Image window,
Script-Fu->Shadow->Drop Shadow will make a dandy one for you
as long as you have the text layer selected.  Notice that
when you make the drop shadow, it shows up as a separate layer.
So you can toggle it on and off with the eyeball icon, and compare
the effects.  You can even make several different drop shadows,
changing the parameters in the Drop Shadow dialog, and toggle
them on and off to see which one you like best.  You can also
move the drop shadow layer separately from the text layer, to
move the shadow closer to or farther from the text.

Here's my card with a drop shadow added:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson3/penguin-val.jpg
and the XCF of it is
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson3/penguin-val.xcf

HOMEWORK: Show off your card, cartoon, or whatever you made.

Next lesson: I'll post an optional mini-lesson on printing in a day
or two, for anyone who wants to print a physical card, including
suggestions for people who don't have a color printer.

From patpeck@znet.com  Fri Feb 11 11:39:19 2005
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This is some fun lesson!  I've been playing with it, and eventually I 
may get something I like enough to post.  So far, false starts and 
painting myself into a corner.  Is there a way of selecting a piece of 
text and deleting just that text, like for example if you had an extra word?

And say, what was the floozy font you used for your card.  The fonts 
I've tried aren't so great, and it's hard to tell in that little 
dialogue box with just Aa as an example.

Also, if I wanted something on the card to do this
                                                    and this

                                                              and this,


In order to move each of them to just the right place, would I have to 
keep each "and this" as a separate layer?


-- 

        ...Pat

From patpeck@znet.com  Fri Feb 11 12:51:20 2005
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Question:   What is "Export"?  I tried to save "Valentine.jpg", which 
may not be the final version, and it told me I had to "export" before it 
could be saved as a jpeg.  So I clicked "export", and it apparently 
saved, but I don't understand what I did or why some images need this 
and some don't.  Is it because it had two layers?

-- 

        ...Pat

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From: Mary <mary-linuxchix@puzzling.org>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 3: Introduction to Layers and Text
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On Thu, Feb 10, 2005, Patricia Peck wrote:
> Question:   What is "Export"?  I tried to save "Valentine.jpg", which 
> may not be the final version, and it told me I had to "export" before it 
> could be saved as a jpeg.  So I clicked "export", and it apparently 
> saved, but I don't understand what I did or why some images need this 
> and some don't.  Is it because it had two layers?

Yes, essentially. "Export" means "convert to the type of image that can
be savid in the format you want". JPEGs cannot have multiple layers, so
before you can save as a JPEG GIMP will 'flatten' all the layers
together.

If you open up the image you saved, you'll find that the layers are
gone. (If you ever want to save in a format which preserves absolutely
everything, save to the GIMP's own XCF format. Note that the files will
be enormous though, so you'll definitely want to export before putting
them on the web!)

-Mary

From carol@gimp.org  Fri Feb 11 14:10:07 2005
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 3: Introduction to Layers and Text
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On Fri, Feb 11, 2005 at 12:54:29PM +1100, Mary wrote:
> On Thu, Feb 10, 2005, Patricia Peck wrote:
> > Question:   What is "Export"?  I tried to save "Valentine.jpg", which 
> > may not be the final version, and it told me I had to "export" before it 
> > could be saved as a jpeg.  So I clicked "export", and it apparently 
> > saved, but I don't understand what I did or why some images need this 
> > and some don't.  Is it because it had two layers?
> 
> Yes, essentially. "Export" means "convert to the type of image that can
> be savid in the format you want". JPEGs cannot have multiple layers, so
> before you can save as a JPEG GIMP will 'flatten' all the layers
> together.
> 
> If you open up the image you saved, you'll find that the layers are
> gone. (If you ever want to save in a format which preserves absolutely
> everything, save to the GIMP's own XCF format. Note that the files will
> be enormous though, so you'll definitely want to export before putting
> them on the web!)
> 
one nice thing about learning how to work with graphics with gimp-1.0
is that the export dialog was not very reliable.  it's broken-ness is
really the reason i learned the differences between the file formats and
what each of the different formats wanted (or could handle).

jpegs are actually very simple to handle and more than likely the export
dialog will handle it very well.  gimp-1.0 users will probably still be
Image -->Flatten'ing before saving as jpeg.  the jpeg format wants no
sign of layers or transparency.

using the export dialog to make png's however might cause some trouble.
since the file format can handle transparency it will, whether it is
there or not, making a file larger than is necessary.  there is really
no way for the export dialog to be able to tell if you need that extra
color or not as well, so i dont ever see it being reliable for making
these files efficiently.

carol


From akkana@shallowsky.com  Fri Feb 11 14:08:14 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 3: Introduction to Layers and Text
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Patricia Peck writes:
> Is there a way of selecting a piece of 
> text and deleting just that text, like for example if you had an extra word?

In gimp 1, there isn't; text just becomes pixels like any other
graphics, unless you're using the "Dynamic Text" option (I never
used dynatext much, so I can't say much about how that works).

In gimp 2, if you right-click on the layer in the layers dialog,
the first item, "Text Tool...", will bring up the little text
dialog, where you can change the text.

(I'm glad you asked that; I didn't know how to do that either,
though I was pretty sure it was possible.  Now I know!)

> And say, what was the floozy font you used for your card.  The fonts 
> I've tried aren't so great, and it's hard to tell in that little 
> dialogue box with just Aa as an example.

I was afraid someone was going to ask that. :-)

One danger I forgot to warn you all about is that once you start
making little cards like this, you run an extreme risk for becoming
a font addict.  Most systems come with only basic boring fonts
installed, and of course for cartoons and cards you want the
perfect bloopy or curvy font that looks good scaled way up.
But once you start searching the web for free fonts, you find
so many you want to try that you end up spending hours going
crosseyed going through hundreds of fonts.

Fonts most often come packaged as a .zip file, since they're
intended for Windows users, but most Linux systems handle zip
files just fine.  Stick it in a directory somewhere (I'd recommend
making a new directory just for unpacking fonts, since zip files
usually have various readmes and things associated with them)
and run unzip fontname.zip.  This will probably give you
fontname.ttf.  Installing a ttf font on linux so that X sees it
can be fairly difficult and is very distro-specific; but happily,
you want the font primarily for gimp, all you have to do is
mkdir ~/.fonts
and stick the fontname.ttf files in there.

The particular font I used in this card is called "Running Shoe".  
I think I got it here: http://www.acidfonts.com/

> Also, if I wanted something on the card to do this
>                                                    and this
> 
>                                                              and this,
> 
> In order to move each of them to just the right place, would I have to 
> keep each "and this" as a separate layer?

The text tool (in gimp 2, anyway) will let you enter multiple lines,
so you could try hitting return and a lot of spaces.  But if they
don't line up exactly the way you want, you might have to make
three layers to get the alignment exactly the way you want it.

You can combine layers together, or move them together while keeping
them separate; I'll be talking about layer operations like that
in a future lesson (probably not too far in the future).

        ...Akkana

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Sat Feb 12 09:15:39 2005
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Poppy did:
> Wheeee..... Fun.
>
> http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/Thinking.jpg


Cool, a cat theme.            :) 
my homework:

I added text and two dropshadows

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/r-twist1.jpg

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/r-twist1.xcf

the jpg is 32k; the xcf is half a Meg!

From patpeck@znet.com  Sat Feb 12 11:05:53 2005
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Okay, gang.  Here's my homework for Valentine's Day.  With apologies to 
Remy Charlip's children's book, "Arm in Arm", from which I stole the 
idea (just happened to have an octopus hanging around the house).

http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/Valentine.jpg


-- 

        ...Pat

From photopoppy@gmail.com  Sat Feb 12 01:31:32 2005
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From: Poppy Casper <photopoppy@gmail.com>
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Wheeee..... Fun.

I'm still looking for a picture that would make a decent card.... have
some ideas, but I don't dare share them since my sweetie is listening
;-)

Here's my homework:
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/Thinking.jpg

And the original picture (Unscaled, it's about 300Kb)
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/PICT0146.JPG

I could spend the rest of the week adding thought bubbles 'n stuff to
my pictures. Pity I have to work instead :)

--Poppy

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On Thursday 10 Feb 2005 11:39 pm, Akkana Peck wrote:
> In this lesson, we'll begin working with layers

i always thought that the gimp was for masochists - basically because some 
time back i went through a tutorial on creating drop shadows which i could 
never master. but you have made it look so easy ... really looking forward to 
the remaining lessons.

-- 
regards
kg

http://www.livejournal.com/users/lawgon
tally ho! http://avsap.sourceforge.net

From kproot@nerim.net  Mon Feb 14 03:12:36 2005
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Here is my homework, at the bottom of the french-translated article :
http://edhel.nerim.net/soeurs/article.php3?id_article=14

This one took me a lot of time because I wanted a penguin, I had a lot 
of stolen pictures from professional websites, and it took me hours to 
browse the fantastic ressources without copyright restrictions for 
non-profit use. Now I'm happy I won't use the stolen pictures :)

Also, I first chose a font that was not truetype, and that I couldn't 
get big enough for my picture. So I resized it, but it looked awful and 
I could see big squared pixels. Then I realized that some font would 
scale without any problem and some will not... the first ones are 
truetype! (now I may have oversized that text during my dance of joy...)

Karine

From kproot@nerim.net  Mon Feb 14 18:08:58 2005
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Hello chix and Gimp-course-followers,

It seems I had not mentioned the original courses and their author 
anywhere in my translated courses where I post my homework, but in the 
lesson 0 (where there was only a link to the course and not even 
Akkana's name...)

Please consider that my website was not yet advertised, so only people 
from Linuxchix came and saw the lessons, so no damage had yet be done. 
But it would have been advertised in a near future and damage would have 
been done then!

Anyway, thanks to those you saw this and told me about it, I hate being 
a jerk :)

Akkana, please accept my apologies.

Karine

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Tue Feb 15 06:24:48 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 3: Introduction to Layers and Text
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I just want to say, thanks, Karine!  I do appreciate your adding a
link back to the original courses, or my name.  And your French
translations of the course look really great -- I don't read French
(much, anyway) but all the screenshots add a lot.

And an oversight doesn't make you a jerk. :-)

        ...Akkana

Karine Proot writes:
> Hello chix and Gimp-course-followers,
> 
> It seems I had not mentioned the original courses and their author 
> anywhere in my translated courses where I post my homework, but in the 
> lesson 0 (where there was only a link to the course and not even 
> Akkana's name...)
> 
> Please consider that my website was not yet advertised, so only people 
> from Linuxchix came and saw the lessons, so no damage had yet be done. 
> But it would have been advertised in a near future and damage would have 
> been done then!
> 
> Anyway, thanks to those you saw this and told me about it, I hate being 
> a jerk :)
> 
> Akkana, please accept my apologies.
> 
> Karine
> _______________________________________________
> Courses mailing list
> Courses@linuxchix.org
> http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/listinfo/courses

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Sat Feb 12 14:33:27 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: [Courses][gimp] Optional Lesson 3.5: printing images
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Lesson 3.5: A Mini Lesson on Printing

(This lesson is optional and has no homework.  Nothing in it will be
needed for understanding later lessons; it's "extra credit" for
anyone who wants to print the project they made in lesson 3.)

Suppose you made a greeting card for Lesson 3, and now you want to
print it.  What are your options?

First, if you don't have a good quality color printer, then don't
dispair.  It's quite easy to get prints made from digital art.

The printing kiosks in drugstores and camera stores make very good
prints.  They don't accept XCF format, so save a full-sized copy
of your image as a jpg or png.  Put it on some transportable medium:
a floppy, a CD, or a flash memory camera card (most of the printing
kiosks can take all of the popular flash memory formats) and take
it to the store where the kiosk is.  Good copy stores (like Kinko's)
also have color copiers and printers which can do a good job with
digital art, and that's often the best option if you want to make
a lot of copies (for example, if you make holiday cards to send
to all your friends).

But suppose you have your own color printer?  That's where gimp-print
comes in.

GIMP-PRINT

Gimp-print is a separate plug-in from gimp, but it's probably already
installed along with your gimp installation.  Call it up from the
Image window menu: File->Print.  (You may have to click "Export"
if the image has layers, transparency or other gimpish features.)

A dialog comes up with a gazillion options.

The first thing you need to do, if you've never used gimp-print
before, is set up your printer.  Gimp-print doesn't read the printer
model from CUPS, so although it knows your default printer, it doesn't
know what its capabilities are.  Click on Setup printer... and choose
your printer model from the list.  (If your printer isn't listed,
things get a lot more complicated; for now, skip ahead to the
"printing from other programs" section.)

Once your printer is selected, you should have options like Media Size
(where you set the paper size), Media Type (where you can set it to
print to Plain Paper, Glossy Photo Paper, Photo Quality Inkjet Paper
or whatever; this controls how much ink the printer shoots at the
paper), and, most important, Resolution (where you set the quality
of the print).

Everything below that is for position and size of the image as it's
printed on the paper, and there's a preview on the left of how the
image will be oriented on the page.  If you're printing a card, then
you probably want your image printed on the bottom half of the paper,
so you can fold it in half and have the image on the front side.
Choose Orientation as Portrait, Landscape, etc. until the image is
oriented the way you want it.

Next, size it by dragging the Scaling slider.  For a card, you
probably want it a bit less than 100%, maybe 90%, to leave room
for borders and still be able to fold the page in half.  For the
card I made in lesson 3, I scaled to 80%, but if I'd cropped the
image so it was wider and less tall, the number would have been
different.

Once you've sized the image, go to the preview image and drag the
image down to the bottom of the "page".  Position it approximately
where you want it.

If you want it centered in one direction or the other, use the
Center buttons to center Vertically or Horizontally.  For a card,
you probably want only one or the other; for a full-sized print,
Both works.

Once you have your image positioned, you're ready to print a test
sheet.  I recommend printing first on Plain Paper and choosing the
lowest quality setting available (for my printer, that's "Resolution:
360x180 DPI draft").  This will be fast and cheap (it doesn't waste
a lot of expensive ink), and lets you know that gimp-print is working
and that your position on the page is correct.  Use the button marked
"Print and Save Settings": this will remember your scaling and
position, so if your test print is right, you can make another
print using high resolution and better paper.  If the test print
isn't quite right, then you can adjust starting from your previous
settings.

Sometimes you may find that an image which looked fine on the screen
looks too dark, too light, or has a color cast when printed.  The
"Image / Output Settings" in the gimp-print dialog has an
"Adjust output..." button which lets you correct such problems.
When you "Save Settings" from gimp-print, it will remember these
settings, so if your printer is always lighter than your screen,
gimp-print can automatically make that correction for you.

PRINTING FROM OTHER PROGRAMS

Suppose gimp-print doesn't know about your printer, or otherwise
doesn't work right, but your printer works from other programs?

In that case, I'd recommend either a word processor like Open Office,
or a web browser like Mozilla.  Any word processor or browser can
import a .jpg that you make in gimp.  With a little fiddling you
can probably even get them to print the image on the right half
of the page, though the quality of a printed photograph probably
won't be as good as it would be with gimp-print.

There are also a couple of lightweight printing apps: a Newsforge
story a few days ago mentioned a gnome printer, and a comment
after the story mentions a kde equivalent.
http://hardware.newsforge.com/hardware/05/02/03/0620241.shtml?tid=127&tid=130
The down side is that these programs generally don't let you adjust
settings like resolution or paper type, so if you're trying to make a
beautiful photo-quality card on photo paper, you may not be satisfied.

Next Lesson: Basic selection tools, and combining images with copy and paste.

From carol@gimp.org  Sat Feb 12 15:22:19 2005
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Optional Lesson 3.5: printing images
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On Fri, Feb 11, 2005 at 07:33:14PM -0800, Akkana Peck wrote:
> 
> The printing kiosks in drugstores and camera stores make very good
> prints.  They don't accept XCF format, so save a full-sized copy
> of your image as a jpg or png.  Put it on some transportable medium:
> a floppy, a CD, or a flash memory camera card (most of the printing
> kiosks can take all of the popular flash memory formats) and take
> it to the store where the kiosk is.  Good copy stores (like Kinko's)
> also have color copiers and printers which can do a good job with
> digital art, and that's often the best option if you want to make
> a lot of copies (for example, if you make holiday cards to send
> to all your friends).
> 
i have been to at least one kiosk that does not recognize png.  also,
these automatic photoprinting machines will expand your image to fit the
usual negative or digital print size and then chop off one half an inch
from this.  they are very good about refusing to make a print if the
original is too small.

here is an example using the images i get off from my camera:
1600 pixels x 1200 pixels.  the print becomes 1600 x 1067 pixels of the
original.  if you make it that size to begin with, the machine will
enlarge it and chop it.  the people that are running these machines
often do not know very much about it.  

another issue i have had with the kiosk is that they do automatic color
correction.  this is terrible if you are not printing photographs and
terrible if you were happy with your adjustments.  avoid this by using
the kiosks that load to a machine where humans handle it and tell them
to turn the automatic color adjustment off.  i was successful here in
california communicating this at the photo counter.  at least the prints
are relatively inexpensive, so allow yourself some extras and the chance
to get it right.  dont yell at the people at the counter -- it is not
their fault they dont know about the equipment.

and about kinkos.  it has been a few years, however, they have a print
machine called "Firey" that makes really lovely prints.  i had problems
occasionally getting the clerk to acknowledge its existance as well.
they were in every kinkos i frequented in Michigan.  and if you work
with the clerk, you can find some glossy paper that might make your
print all the more better.  i was disappointed with the prints from
their usual color computer printing after having seen what firey could
do and they were more expensive.

i suggest that if you take the challenge to get a good print for your
valentine that you also tell your valentine that art is worth waiting
for (if your first prints are disappointing).

enjoy this, it is very educational.  after a while, you will know more
than the people working the counters and you will also know this.

happy valentines day,
carol


From carol@gimp.org  Sat Feb 12 16:54:59 2005
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Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 21:54:56 -0800
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Optional Lesson 3.5: printing images
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On Fri, Feb 11, 2005 at 08:22:11PM -0800, Carol Spears wrote:
> 
> another issue i have had with the kiosk is that they do automatic color
> correction.  this is terrible if you are not printing photographs and
> terrible if you were happy with your adjustments.  avoid this by using
> the kiosks that load to a machine where humans handle it and tell them
> to turn the automatic color adjustment off.  i was successful here in
> california communicating this at the photo counter.  at least the prints
> are relatively inexpensive, so allow yourself some extras and the chance
> to get it right.  dont yell at the people at the counter -- it is not
> their fault they dont know about the equipment.
> 
this should read "i have been successful here in california
communicating this at the costco counter"

sorry.  and it is not an advertisement either, it is one experience that
i had.  :)

carol


From akkana@shallowsky.com  Sat Feb 19 08:56:51 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
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Subject: [Courses][gimp] Lesson4: Basic selection tools, and copy/paste
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In this lesson we'll explore some of GIMP's basic selection tools,
and some tricks for combining several images.  I'll conclude by
showing how to paste Tux, the Linux penguin, into photos.

I'll start with a photo of the Mitten Fault on the Green River
in Utah's Dinosaur National Monument:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson4/mittenfault.jpg
(that's a scaled-down version for the web.)

It's a cool place.  But one thing you can't easily see in the
scaled-down version: down by the sandbar in the lower right quarter
of the picture are two kayakers coming down the river.  I'd like
to show a magnified version of those kayakers on the same image
that shows the whole scene.

I start by loading the full-sized image into gimp.  But I'll need
to work with both the full sized version and a scaled-down copy,
so the first step is Image->Duplicate to make a second copy.
(Of course, I could also use cp in the shell, then open that
file in gimp.)  Then I scale the copy much smaller, 550 pixels wide.

The next step is to go back to the original image and select the
kayakers.  I'll use the simplest selection tool for this: the
rectangular selection tool, the very first tool in the gimp toolbox.
(It's probably already selected by default when you start gimp.)

Go to the large image, and select as though you were using the
Crop tool: start at the upper left of the area you want, mouse down,
and drag down to the lower right.  Gimp will draw lines to show you
the box while you're dragging out the selection, and when you release
the mouse button, the selection is shown by a black-and-white dashed
line where the blacks and whites continuously change.  In gimp
parlance, this line is called the "marching ants".

Gimp's selection tools aren't as smart as crop, so you can't change
a selection's size easily once you've made it.  (You can move it;
I'll talk about that later.)  So if the selection you made isn't quite
right, click somewhere outside the marching-ants box (this will cancel
the selection) then try again, until you get the selection where you
want it.  (Be careful about clicking inside the selection: if you
click inside a selection then drag, gimp moves the contents of the
selection and leaves a white rectangle behind, which is almost never
what you want.  If this happens accidentally, Undo will fix it.)

When you have a selection, lots of things act a little differently in
gimp.  Most filters (for instance, the brightness tools discussed in
lesson 2) will only act on the selection, not the rest of the image;
and most drawing tools won't draw outside the selection.  We'll use
that for some useful effects later.

For now, though, what I want to do is copy the selection from the
big image, then paste it into the small image.  So I copy it:
Edit->Copy, or just ctrl-C.

Now I can go to the small image, and paste it: Edit->Paste, or ctrl-V.

What happened?  It pasted the selection as a new layer in the smaller
image, which you can see in the Layers dialog: it probably says New
Image, or Pasted Image.  But it's a Floating layer, which may not be
obvious from the name.  Gimp 1.2 will call it a Floating layer, but
gimp 2 just shows marching ants to show that it's different from a
normal layer (so it looks just like a selection).  Click the New Layer
button in the Layers dialog now to make it a normal layer.

The rectangle didn't paste at the place where I wanted it.
So the next step is to move it.  I can do that by selecting the move
tool: the same crossed arrow icon in the toolbox that we used to move
the text layer around in lesson 3.  Using the move tool, I'll drag my
box down to the green area in the lower right of the image.

What if I want to see what the image looks like without that
dotted-line layer boundary?  Selecting the other layer (probably
called "Background") in the layers dialog will draw the outline
around that layer (the whole image) instead of the smaller layer.

Now I have my little box showing kayakers pasted on top of my
scaled-down image.  But it looks weird -- it's hard to tell that
that rectangle is something I put there intentionally.  So how
can I fix that?  Easy: add a drop shadow!
(Script-fu->Shadow->Drop-Shadow... just like in lesson 3.)
I could even use a different color for my drop shadow to make it stand
out more, though in this case I couldn't find one that didn't look
garish.  If I save the image now as jpg (of course I have to let gimp
export it since I now have multiple layers), it looks like this:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson4/mittenfault-insert.jpg

But rectangular isn't the only type of selection gimp has.  Right next
to the rectangular selection tool is ellipse select.  It works the
same way as rectangular select, only it lets you make ovals and
circles instead of rectangles and squares.

If I follow exactly the same procedure as before, but I use ellipse
select instead of rectangular, and play with the drop shadow color,
I get the rather strange looking:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson4/mittenfault-ellipse.jpg

To close the lesson, I'll talk about one more selection tool:
well, actually two closely related ones, Select Contiguous Regions
and Select By Color.  And who better to introduce these useful tools
than everybody's favorite penguin?
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson4/tux-large.gif

(Incidentally, Tux was created by Larry Ewing, drawn freehand in
gimp version 0.54.  It's legal to use him or make changes as
long as you credit Larry Ewing and the GIMP if anyone asks.
The artist has a page describing how he was drawn:
http://www.isc.tamu.edu/~lewing/linux/notes.html )

Now, Tux is cute all by himself, but what if I want to take him
along on my trip to see the Mitten fault?

First I decide how big he'll need to be.  100 pixels high looks about
right; so I scale Tux to that size.

Next, I need to select Tux (but not the background around him),
so I can paste him into the photo.

To do that, I need to select Tux himself, and not that white
background behind him.  (Or I could go download a tux image that
already has a transparent background from Larry Ewing's page --
but then we wouldn't have this part of the lesson! :-)

To do this, I choose the toolbox icon that looks like a magic wand
with a light on the end, with the tooltip "Select Contiguous Regions".

This tool will select everything that's of similar color to the place
where I click.  How close it needs to be is defined by the Threshold
in the tool options: if you set Threshold to 0, then only identical
colors will be selected.  For this particular example, make sure
Feather Edges is turned off.  What I'll do is select the background,
because it's all one color, whereas Tux isn't.

A very similar tool is Select by Color.  In gimp 2 it's in the
toolbox right next to Contiguous Regions; in 1.2 it's in the menus,
Select->By Color.  If you click on a white pixel, then EVERY white
pixel in the image becomes selected.  Try it on Tux!  You won't want
it for this exercise, but it's a very useful tool for some images.

With the Contiguous Regions tool chosen, I click anywhere in the white
background.  Voila!  I see marching ants around the edge of Tux, and
also around the outside edge of the image.  The background is now selected.

But I don't actually want the background, I want Tux himself.  I want
the selection to be the exact opposite of what it is.  That's easy to
fix: Select->Invert.  Now Tux is selected: I still see the marching
ants around him, but no longer see them around the edge of the image.

Now I'm ready to Copy, then Paste into the photo.  Click on New Layer,
select the move tool, drag the Tux layer to where I want him ...
and voila, Tux Visits the Mitten Fault!
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson4/mittenfault-tux.jpg

Homework:
Select something from one image (using any selection tool) and paste
it into another image.

Next lesson: basic drawing tools.


From photopoppy@gmail.com  Sat Feb 19 14:32:07 2005
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From: Poppy Casper <photopoppy@gmail.com>
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Ok, so maybe I'm strange, but here's my homework anyway. This was too
much fun, and I'm still playing with the text tool from last week, too
:)

http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/Lesson_4.jpg

If anyone wants to see them, I can put the original images up, too.


--Poppy

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Sat Feb 19 17:57:28 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson4: Basic selection tools, and copy/paste
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Poppy Casper writes:
> http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/Lesson_4.jpg

That's so cute that I just went in and added a section on
making cartoon thought bubbles to next week's drawing lesson. :-)

        ...Akkana

From kjersti.b.berg@start.no  Sun Feb 20 00:42:51 2005
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Subject: [Courses][gimp] Import RAW files
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Hi all

I have been doing my homework, will upload later. For now I have a
question though. I have been taking some pictures in raw format and
would like to open these with gimp. There are some plugins around, I
have tried two of them, rawphot and ufraw, but I can't get them to work,
and I can't understand what I'm doing wrong. 

I have installed dcraw (compiled and put in /usr/local/bin) and I can
run this from the command line. 

I have tried to install rawphoto by using gimptool, but it doesn't seem
to have any effect when I try to open the raw files. Anyone used this? I
don't even know what to look for. (Feeling very stupid right now.)

I also tried to install ufraw. When I tried compiling it failed. So I
tried using an rpm (earlier version), and since I installed Gimp from
source as well, I had to use the nodeps option. I don't know if this
could cause it to break. (I checked that all libs were there.) Anyone
ever tried this plugin? How can I tell if it works? Opening a raw file
causes Gimp to complain about unknown file format.

Although I suppose I could just use dcraw from the command line, I would
sure like to integrate it with Gimp if I can.

Any suggestions much appreciated.

Kjersti


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Kjersti Bj=F8rnestad Berg writes:
> I have been doing my homework, will upload later. For now I have a
> question though. I have been taking some pictures in raw format and
> would like to open these with gimp. There are some plugins around, I

I haven't used it myself, but I wonder if perhaps it uses its own
dialog, rather than plugging in to the gimp's normal file open?

Try using the plug-in browser: Xtns->Plug-In Browser...
Find the plugin in the list, click on it, and see if it has inserted
itself into any menus.

Plug-in authors are often not very clear about where their plug-ins
install themselves (I have been guilty of this myself in the past).
Hint for plugin authors: I installed some plug-ins recently where the
Makefile, after it finished with "make install", echoed several lines
telling me exactly where I would find the new functions.  Great idea!
I went and added that to my own plugins.  (And of course, mentioning
that information on the web page for the plug-in is even better.)

        ...Akkana

From kproot@nerim.net  Sun Feb 20 05:52:58 2005
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Yay! what a professional result you get with close-up + drop-shadow! :)

Here is the lesson translated into french, with my homework :
http://edhel.nerim.net/soeurs/article.php3?id_article=17

I am happy I could do that close-up because it reminds me that each time 
I draw with pencils I'm so close to the paper that I only see those 
rough pencil lines, but in the end it turns out not so bad.

And I should have put more effort into integrating Tux with my sister, 
as he is still a bit yellowish... but anyway Tux is flat, so I wonder if 
I could get him look really real ;)

Karine

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Sun Feb 20 06:51:10 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson4: Basic selection tools, and copy/paste
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2005 14:51:28 -0500
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For my homework I used a picture I took last summer of my tabby-point 
siamese (is there such a thing?) Shorty:

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/shorty1.jpg I used the elliptical 
selection tool and added a drop shadow

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/shorty2.jpg I tried getting rid of the 
background using a combination of the color selection and contiguous region 
selection tools, then I discovered by accident that the erasor tool will 
work inside a selection and leave the outside stuff alone.  

I ended up with a white circle with a cat innit  :) which is 
http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/shorty3.jpg and

in http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/shorty4.jpg I discovered the opacity 
slider bar in the Layers, Channels and Paths dialogue and put lots of 
little ghost cats all around.

My original is http://www.bobsloansampler.com/shorty.jpg

This is fun; sorry if I'm being a bit silly with it.

Julie



On Friday 18 February 2005 04:56 pm, Akkana Peck wrote:
> In this lesson we'll explore some of GIMP's basic selection tools,
> and some tricks for combining several images.  I'll conclude by
> showing how to paste Tux, the Linux penguin, into photos.
>
> I'll start with a photo of the Mitten Fault on the Green River
> in Utah's Dinosaur National Monument:
> http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson4/mittenfault.jpg
> (that's a scaled-down version for the web.)
>
> It's a cool place.  But one thing you can't easily see in the
> scaled-down version: down by the sandbar in the lower right quarter
> of the picture are two kayakers coming down the river.  I'd like
> to show a magnified version of those kayakers on the same image
> that shows the whole scene.
>
> I start by loading the full-sized image into gimp.  But I'll need
> to work with both the full sized version and a scaled-down copy,
> so the first step is Image->Duplicate to make a second copy.
> (Of course, I could also use cp in the shell, then open that
> file in gimp.)  Then I scale the copy much smaller, 550 pixels wide.
>
> The next step is to go back to the original image and select the
> kayakers.  I'll use the simplest selection tool for this: the
> rectangular selection tool, the very first tool in the gimp toolbox.
> (It's probably already selected by default when you start gimp.)
>
> Go to the large image, and select as though you were using the
> Crop tool: start at the upper left of the area you want, mouse down,
> and drag down to the lower right.  Gimp will draw lines to show you
> the box while you're dragging out the selection, and when you release
> the mouse button, the selection is shown by a black-and-white dashed
> line where the blacks and whites continuously change.  In gimp
> parlance, this line is called the "marching ants".
>
> Gimp's selection tools aren't as smart as crop, so you can't change
> a selection's size easily once you've made it.  (You can move it;
> I'll talk about that later.)  So if the selection you made isn't quite
> right, click somewhere outside the marching-ants box (this will cancel
> the selection) then try again, until you get the selection where you
> want it.  (Be careful about clicking inside the selection: if you
> click inside a selection then drag, gimp moves the contents of the
> selection and leaves a white rectangle behind, which is almost never
> what you want.  If this happens accidentally, Undo will fix it.)
>
> When you have a selection, lots of things act a little differently in
> gimp.  Most filters (for instance, the brightness tools discussed in
> lesson 2) will only act on the selection, not the rest of the image;
> and most drawing tools won't draw outside the selection.  We'll use
> that for some useful effects later.
>
> For now, though, what I want to do is copy the selection from the
> big image, then paste it into the small image.  So I copy it:
> Edit->Copy, or just ctrl-C.
>
> Now I can go to the small image, and paste it: Edit->Paste, or ctrl-V.
>
> What happened?  It pasted the selection as a new layer in the smaller
> image, which you can see in the Layers dialog: it probably says New
> Image, or Pasted Image.  But it's a Floating layer, which may not be
> obvious from the name.  Gimp 1.2 will call it a Floating layer, but
> gimp 2 just shows marching ants to show that it's different from a
> normal layer (so it looks just like a selection).  Click the New Layer
> button in the Layers dialog now to make it a normal layer.
>
> The rectangle didn't paste at the place where I wanted it.
> So the next step is to move it.  I can do that by selecting the move
> tool: the same crossed arrow icon in the toolbox that we used to move
> the text layer around in lesson 3.  Using the move tool, I'll drag my
> box down to the green area in the lower right of the image.
>
> What if I want to see what the image looks like without that
> dotted-line layer boundary?  Selecting the other layer (probably
> called "Background") in the layers dialog will draw the outline
> around that layer (the whole image) instead of the smaller layer.
>
> Now I have my little box showing kayakers pasted on top of my
> scaled-down image.  But it looks weird -- it's hard to tell that
> that rectangle is something I put there intentionally.  So how
> can I fix that?  Easy: add a drop shadow!
> (Script-fu->Shadow->Drop-Shadow... just like in lesson 3.)
> I could even use a different color for my drop shadow to make it stand
> out more, though in this case I couldn't find one that didn't look
> garish.  If I save the image now as jpg (of course I have to let gimp
> export it since I now have multiple layers), it looks like this:
> http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson4/mittenfault-insert.jpg
>
> But rectangular isn't the only type of selection gimp has.  Right next
> to the rectangular selection tool is ellipse select.  It works the
> same way as rectangular select, only it lets you make ovals and
> circles instead of rectangles and squares.
>
> If I follow exactly the same procedure as before, but I use ellipse
> select instead of rectangular, and play with the drop shadow color,
> I get the rather strange looking:
> http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson4/mittenfault-ellipse.jpg
>
> To close the lesson, I'll talk about one more selection tool:
> well, actually two closely related ones, Select Contiguous Regions
> and Select By Color.  And who better to introduce these useful tools
> than everybody's favorite penguin?
> http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson4/tux-large.gif
>
> (Incidentally, Tux was created by Larry Ewing, drawn freehand in
> gimp version 0.54.  It's legal to use him or make changes as
> long as you credit Larry Ewing and the GIMP if anyone asks.
> The artist has a page describing how he was drawn:
> http://www.isc.tamu.edu/~lewing/linux/notes.html )
>
> Now, Tux is cute all by himself, but what if I want to take him
> along on my trip to see the Mitten fault?
>
> First I decide how big he'll need to be.  100 pixels high looks about
> right; so I scale Tux to that size.
>
> Next, I need to select Tux (but not the background around him),
> so I can paste him into the photo.
>
> To do that, I need to select Tux himself, and not that white
> background behind him.  (Or I could go download a tux image that
> already has a transparent background from Larry Ewing's page --
> but then we wouldn't have this part of the lesson! :-)
>
> To do this, I choose the toolbox icon that looks like a magic wand
> with a light on the end, with the tooltip "Select Contiguous Regions".
>
> This tool will select everything that's of similar color to the place
> where I click.  How close it needs to be is defined by the Threshold
> in the tool options: if you set Threshold to 0, then only identical
> colors will be selected.  For this particular example, make sure
> Feather Edges is turned off.  What I'll do is select the background,
> because it's all one color, whereas Tux isn't.
>
> A very similar tool is Select by Color.  In gimp 2 it's in the
> toolbox right next to Contiguous Regions; in 1.2 it's in the menus,
> Select->By Color.  If you click on a white pixel, then EVERY white
> pixel in the image becomes selected.  Try it on Tux!  You won't want
> it for this exercise, but it's a very useful tool for some images.
>
> With the Contiguous Regions tool chosen, I click anywhere in the white
> background.  Voila!  I see marching ants around the edge of Tux, and
> also around the outside edge of the image.  The background is now
> selected.
>
> But I don't actually want the background, I want Tux himself.  I want
> the selection to be the exact opposite of what it is.  That's easy to
> fix: Select->Invert.  Now Tux is selected: I still see the marching
> ants around him, but no longer see them around the edge of the image.
>
> Now I'm ready to Copy, then Paste into the photo.  Click on New Layer,
> select the move tool, drag the Tux layer to where I want him ...
> and voila, Tux Visits the Mitten Fault!
> http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson4/mittenfault-tux.jpg
>
> Homework:
> Select something from one image (using any selection tool) and paste
> it into another image.
>
> Next lesson: basic drawing tools.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Courses mailing list
> Courses@linuxchix.org
> http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/listinfo/courses

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Sun Feb 20 07:07:38 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson4: Basic selection tools, and copy/paste
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On Saturday 19 February 2005 02:51 pm, Julie Sloan wrote:

corrections:

> I ended up with a white circle with a cat innit  :)

rectangle  :)

> My original is http://www.bobsloansampler.com/shorty.jpg


http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/shorty.jpg


From patpeck@znet.com  Sun Feb 20 10:42:11 2005
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I went looking for Tux in Google Images, and found many, many versions 
of him.  Some were .jpg, some were .png, some were .gif, and they were 
of many different sizes -- does it matter which you use for working on 
in the gimp?  Are some better in quality than others in the final product?

-- 

        ...Pat

From mary@home.puzzling.org  Sun Feb 20 10:56:48 2005
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On Sat, Feb 19, 2005, Patricia Peck wrote:
> I went looking for Tux in Google Images, and found many, many versions 
> of him.  Some were .jpg, some were .png, some were .gif, and they were 
> of many different sizes -- does it matter which you use for working on 
> in the gimp?  Are some better in quality than others in the final product?

This seems to be the official Tux homepage:
http://www.isc.tamu.edu/~lewing/linux/

Or at least, it's the one that Linus Torvalds links to from
http://www.cs.helsinki.fi/u/torvalds/ !

For importing images I'd suggest finding a PNG or GIF image of the right
size rather than a JPG. Reason? JPG is lossy (some details are lost or
changed on saving and loading), PNG and GIF are lossless.

You could also try finding an SVG Tux. SVG is a vector based graphics
format, which means that SVG images can be resized withut graininess.
(Essentially, a vector format image stores lines and curves, which can
be scaled up or down mathematically. JPEGs, GIFs, PNGs, XCFs etc are all
pixel based, and get scaled up by making the pixels bigger, giving you
that grainy look if you get too big.)

The GIMP is a pixel based editing program, so if you find an SVG Tux
you'll need to scale him to the right size and export him to a pixel
format (PNG probably). I think you can get an SVG importer for new
versions of the GIMP: other programs that can read SVG and export it
include Sodipodi and Inkscape(?).

-Mary

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From mary@home.puzzling.org  Sun Feb 20 13:57:40 2005
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On Sun, Feb 20, 2005, Kenneth Gonsalves wrote:
> On Sunday 20 Feb 2005 5:25 am, Mary wrote:
> > For importing images I'd suggest finding a PNG or GIF image of the
> > right
> 
> heard somewhere that GIF is to be avoided for copyright reasons?

For patent reasons[1]: because the compression algorithm used was/is
patented, and people who wanted to write something (like the GIMP!) that
saved in that format were meant to pay royalties.

The patent has now expired in the US.

See http://burnallgifs.org/archives/ for info.

-Mary

[1] They're different things: copyright is a legal right to control
copies of a creative work, a patent is a legal monopoly for a period of
time over a design/process/idea.

From lawgon@thenilgiris.com  Sun Feb 20 18:21:22 2005
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On Sunday 20 Feb 2005 8:26 am, Mary wrote:
> [1] They're different things: copyright is a legal right to control
> copies of a creative work, a patent is a legal monopoly for a period of
> time over a design/process/idea.

strange are the ways of the world! I'm a lawyer - at a recent linux meet i=
=20
gave a coupla talks on programming to a hall full of programmers, and sever=
al=20
people protested that if lawyers started programming, programmers would los=
e=20
their jobs. And then i listened to *four* talks on law by computer=20
programmers - so what happens to the lawyer's jobs?=20

=2D-=20
regards
kg

http://www.livejournal.com/users/lawgon
tally ho! http://avsap.sourceforge.net
=E0=B2=87=E0=B2=82=E0=B2=A1=E0=B3=8D=E0=B2=B2=E0=B2=BF=E0=B2=A8=E0=B2=95=E0=
=B3=8D=E0=B2=B8 =E0=AE=B5=E0=AE=BE=E0=AE=B4=E0=AF=8D=E0=AE=95!

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On Sun, Feb 20, 2005, Kenneth Gonsalves wrote:
> strange are the ways of the world! I'm a lawyer - at a recent linux meet i 
> gave a coupla talks on programming to a hall full of programmers, and several 
> people protested that if lawyers started programming, programmers would lose 
> their jobs. And then i listened to *four* talks on law by computer 
> programmers - so what happens to the lawyer's jobs? 

Sorry about that :)

I'm sure you know how important it is for people working on software to
know intellectual property law at least to an approximation -- I doubt
that they'll do much for lawyer's jobs: for starters in most countries
they need a law degree to be able to do a lot of the actual paid work.
And once they have a law degree... they're lawyers.

As for lawyers programming -- well, I've met a lot of people who program
as part of their job: scientists and medical practicioners usually. I
also know people who've become programmers having started out as
psychologists, artists and architects. I'm sure lawyers won't make a
significant difference to the employability of programmers. Besides, if
a lawyer programs... she's a programmer.

-Mary

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From: Travis Casey <efindel@earthlink.net>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Tux images
Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2005 21:59:54 -0500
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On Saturday 19 February 2005 21:27, Kenneth Gonsalves wrote:
> On Sunday 20 Feb 2005 5:25 am, Mary wrote:

> > For importing images I'd suggest finding a PNG or GIF image of the
> > right
>
> heard somewhere that GIF is to be avoided for copyright reasons?

The LZW compression algorithm used in GIF files was patented.  The 
developers of GIF got the algorithm out of a magazine, and didn't know it 
was patented.

Unisys, the holder of the patent, didn't do anything about it until 1994, 
until they decided that anyone making software that created or read the GIF 
format should have to license their patent.

It no longer matters now.  The patent has expired in the US, Europe, Canada, 
and Japan, which as far as I know is everywhere that Unisys bothered to 
patent it.  The algorithm is now public domain, and no one has to license 
it from Unisys.

Still, though, the patent didn't expire in the US until 2003, and ran 
through June of 2004 in Europe, Canada, and Japan.

The Unix "compress" program ran into the same problem, as it also used LZW 
compression (and there as well, the creator got it from a published 
article, and had no idea it was patented).  

For end users, it was never a problem, since Unisys never asked end users of 
software to license their patent -- only programmers creating software to 
read/write GIFs.  And now it's no longer a problem for them.

For more history, see:

http://www.kuro5hin.org/story/2003/6/19/35919/4079

--
       |\      _,,,---,,_     Travis S. Casey  <efindel@earthlink.net>
 ZZzz  /,`.-'`'    -.  ;-;;,_   No one agrees with me.  Not even me.
      |,4-  ) )-,_..;\ (  `'-' 
     '---''(_/--'  `-'\_) 

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Sun Feb 20 12:34:26 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Tux, image formats, and a drag-n-drop tip
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Jon Drews writes:
>  I realize I am a little behind here but a few quick questions:
> 
> 1) I should always save in the native *.xcf before doing alterations?
> I did that with this image.

It never hurts, but you don't really need to save as .xcf unless
you're using multiple layers, or have other gimpish things like
a complicated selection that you don't want to lose.  Otherwise,
just making a copy of the original .jpg or whatever is fine.
(But do that from the shell: cp img.jpg img-orig.jpg or similar.
Don't read the file into gimp then save back as jpg unless you're
making changes.  JPG is "lossy", which means that every time you
read it in then write it out again, you lose a little bit of quality,
so don't do that any more times than you have to.)

If you want to store an intermediate version but you don't need
layers, use png or tiff (I recommend png).  They're much bigger
than jpg but they're not lossy.

My overview of image formats: http://shallowsky.com/linux/imageformats.html

> 2) These images were large so I worked on them in their original large
> size and then reduced them using the techniques from lesson 1. Is that
> the proper thing to do or should I reduce them first? Which sequence
> gives better image quality: alter first and then reduce or reduce and
> then alter ?

Most of the time, working at full size and reducing at the very end
gives better quality.  There are a few cases where that might not
be true: rescaling text or intricate line drawings sometimes makes
the result look "jaggy", so if you're going to add text or drawings
it may be better to rescale the image before adding them.

>   I must say this really quite a good course Akkana. Thanks!

Thanks!  I'm glad you like it.

Patricia Peck writes:
> I went looking for Tux in Google Images, and found many, many versions 
> of him.  Some were .jpg, some were .png, some were .gif, and they were 
> of many different sizes -- does it matter which you use for working on 
> in the gimp?  Are some better in quality than others in the final product?

The "imageformats" page I mentioned above should give some background
on the formats: since Tux only has a few colors, gif or indexed png
is usually the most efficient format for him, but if you add him
to a full color photograph, you're best off saving the
end result as jpg.

But talking about searching Google Images seems like a good time to
introduce a hot gimp tip: Drag 'n' drop!

Both mozilla and gimp are quite smart about drag-n-drop, so if you
have gimp open, you can drag from any image being displayed in a
mozilla-based browser and drop onto the gimp toolbox, and the image
will open in gimp.  (I don't know if konqueror supports d-n-d or not.)

Of course, you want to be looking at the full sized image in the browser;
if you drag a thumbnail, the thumbnail is what gimp will open.

You can even drag from mozilla into a current gimp image window,
and gimp 2 will make a new layer consisting of that image.

I hear middleclick-paste onto the gimp toolbox window is supposed
to work in CVS versions of gimp (just like it does in mozilla --
middleclick on the window opens the selection as a filename or url),
but that doesn't work in current versions yet.

        ...Akkana

From kjersti.b.berg@start.no  Mon Feb 21 00:13:42 2005
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson4: Basic selection tools, and copy/paste
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Here's my homework for this and the previous lesson. 

http://home.no.net/tuttings/

Kjersti


From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Mon Feb 21 09:06:01 2005
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson4: Basic selection tools, and copy/paste
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I want extra credit       ;-)           so I did more homework.

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/gates.jpg


-- 

From patpeck@znet.com  Mon Feb 21 19:07:29 2005
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Whew!  I had a hard time with this one for some reason, but here's my 
homework for Lesson 4.

The first image takes a couple of people on the right side of the photo 
and puts them in an ellipse on the left side:

http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/chandlerfolks.jpg

The second (and best) part of the homework has our friend Tux working 
on... well, under... the street:

http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/chandlerSTux.jpg

-- 

        ...Pat

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I'm finally getting a bit caught up on the lessons.  I've really
enjoyed seeing everyone's pictures.  Keep it coming, it is extremely
informative.  These have been the best exercises.  I've spent hours
and hours messing around with all this stuff.  It is just incredible!

Here are my pics from lesson three. I love that drop shadow feature.

http://www.angelfire.com/emo2/travellingelmo/homework3.html

Here is my pic from lesson four.  This was really difficult, but a lot
of fun to do.  It is just amazing what you can do with Gimp.

http://www.angelfire.com/emo2/travellingelmo/homework4.html

Wendy

From lawgon@thenilgiris.com  Sun Feb 27 22:24:54 2005
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On Sunday 27 Feb 2005 4:25 pm, Wendy Mores wrote:
> Here is my pic from lesson four. =C2=A0This was really difficult, but a
> lot of fun to do. =C2=A0It is just amazing what you can do with Gimp.
>
> http://www.angelfire.com/emo2/travellingelmo/homework4.html

didnt load

=2D-=20
regards
kg

http://www.livejournal.com/users/lawgon
tally ho! http://avsap.sourceforge.net
=E0=B2=87=E0=B2=82=E0=B2=A1=E0=B3=8D=E0=B2=B2=E0=B2=BF=E0=B2=A8=E0=B2=95=E0=
=B3=8D=E0=B2=B8 =E0=AE=B5=E0=AE=BE=E0=AE=B4=E0=AF=8D=E0=AE=95!

From kjersti.b.berg@start.no  Mon Feb 28 00:37:14 2005
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson4: Basic selection tools, and copy/paste
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s=F8n, 27.02.2005 kl. 11.55 skrev Wendy Mores:
> I'm finally getting a bit caught up on the lessons.  I've really
> enjoyed seeing everyone's pictures.  Keep it coming, it is extremely
> informative.  These have been the best exercises.  I've spent hours
> and hours messing around with all this stuff.  It is just incredible!
>=20
> Here are my pics from lesson three. I love that drop shadow feature.
>=20
> http://www.angelfire.com/emo2/travellingelmo/homework3.html
>=20
> Here is my pic from lesson four.  This was really difficult, but a lot
> of fun to do.  It is just amazing what you can do with Gimp.
>=20
> http://www.angelfire.com/emo2/travellingelmo/homework4.html
>=20

Wow! Very cool. Is that shadow done with drop-shadow?=20

Kjersti



From wendy.mores@gmail.com  Mon Feb 28 07:28:08 2005
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From: Wendy Mores <wendy.mores@gmail.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson4: Basic selection tools, and copy/paste
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Drop shadow was used for the text on the valentines cards but the
shadow behind Elmo on Mars was a little bit more complicated.  It is
essentially just a copy of the Elmo layer.  On the copy, I changed the
contrast to minimum to make it grey, selected the Elmo area with the
magic wand and then filled it with black with the bucket.  Shadow was
dragged out and put to the side with a perspective tool on the tool
bar and to finish it up, I played with the opacity bar so you see the
rocks.

The shadow proved a bit challenging because I guess I've never really
had a  good look at shadows that people throw.  I want to  take a few
pictures of people and their shadows at different times of day to get
a better idea of how long they would be and where they fall in
relation to the light. Elmo's shadow is just a shot in the dark.   I

Thanks Wendy

On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 14:40:22 +0100, Kjersti Bj=F8rnestad Berg
<kjersti.b.berg@start.no> wrote:
> s=F8n, 27.02.2005 kl. 11.55 skrev Wendy Mores:
> > I'm finally getting a bit caught up on the lessons.  I've really
> > enjoyed seeing everyone's pictures.  Keep it coming, it is extremely
> > informative.  These have been the best exercises.  I've spent hours
> > and hours messing around with all this stuff.  It is just incredible!
> >
> > Here are my pics from lesson three. I love that drop shadow feature.
> >
> > http://www.angelfire.com/emo2/travellingelmo/homework3.html
> >
> > Here is my pic from lesson four.  This was really difficult, but a lot
> > of fun to do.  It is just amazing what you can do with Gimp.
> >
> > http://www.angelfire.com/emo2/travellingelmo/homework4.html
> >
>=20
> Wow! Very cool. Is that shadow done with drop-shadow?
>=20
> Kjersti
>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> Courses mailing list
> Courses@linuxchix.org
> http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/listinfo/courses
>=20


--=20
Hakuna Matata...

Wendy Mores

From kjersti.b.berg@start.no  Mon Feb 28 19:17:31 2005
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson4: Basic selection tools, and copy/paste
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s=F8n, 27.02.2005 kl. 21.27 skrev Wendy Mores:
> Drop shadow was used for the text on the valentines cards but the
> shadow behind Elmo on Mars was a little bit more complicated.  It is
> essentially just a copy of the Elmo layer.  On the copy, I changed the
> contrast to minimum to make it grey, selected the Elmo area with the
> magic wand and then filled it with black with the bucket.  Shadow was
> dragged out and put to the side with a perspective tool on the tool
> bar and to finish it up, I played with the opacity bar so you see the
> rocks.
>=20
> The shadow proved a bit challenging because I guess I've never really
> had a  good look at shadows that people throw.  I want to  take a few
> pictures of people and their shadows at different times of day to get
> a better idea of how long they would be and where they fall in
> relation to the light. Elmo's shadow is just a shot in the dark.   I
>=20

Thanks for the tip! I suspected there was more work behind the last one.
*applause*

Kjersti

> Thanks Wendy
>=20
> On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 14:40:22 +0100, Kjersti Bj=F8rnestad Berg
> <kjersti.b.berg@start.no> wrote:
> > s=F8n, 27.02.2005 kl. 11.55 skrev Wendy Mores:
> > > I'm finally getting a bit caught up on the lessons.  I've really
> > > enjoyed seeing everyone's pictures.  Keep it coming, it is extremel=
y
> > > informative.  These have been the best exercises.  I've spent hours
> > > and hours messing around with all this stuff.  It is just incredibl=
e!
> > >
> > > Here are my pics from lesson three. I love that drop shadow feature=
.
> > >
> > > http://www.angelfire.com/emo2/travellingelmo/homework3.html
> > >
> > > Here is my pic from lesson four.  This was really difficult, but a =
lot
> > > of fun to do.  It is just amazing what you can do with Gimp.
> > >
> > > http://www.angelfire.com/emo2/travellingelmo/homework4.html
> > >
> >=20
> > Wow! Very cool. Is that shadow done with drop-shadow?
> >=20
> > Kjersti
> >=20
> >=20
> > _______________________________________________
> > Courses mailing list
> > Courses@linuxchix.org
> > http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/listinfo/courses
> >=20
>=20


From akkana@shallowsky.com  Sat Feb 26 11:49:00 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 5: Basic Drawing Tools
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For this lesson we'll take a step back from photographs, and
learn how to use the gimp for drawing.

Let's start with a blank canvas: File->New.  You can make it any
size you want, but it might be best to give yourself some space,
say 640x480 or larger.

A New Image window will open up filled with the current background
color.  It's probably white, if you haven't changed it, and that's
a good canvas color for practicing drawing, though you can use any
color you like.

PENCIL AND PAINTBRUSH

The two main drawing tools are the Pencil (draws hard-edged lines)
and the Paintbrush (draws fuzzy-edged lines).  For both of these
tools, you can change the width of the stroke by changing the
"brush".  The current brush is shown at the bottom right of the
toolbox, just to the right of the foreground/background color
swatches.  It's probably a small black circle by default.
Click on it, and the brushes dialog comes up (you can also get
the dialog through the menus, File->Dialogs->Brushes).
In gimp2, you can also change the brush through a dropdown menu
in the Tool Options part of the toolbox.

Some of the brushes are silly, like the pepper.  But play around
with what's there and get an idea what they all do.  Go ahead and
scribble!  Try changing color, brush, and tool.

STRAIGHT LINES

What if you want to draw a straight line?

That's easy: shift-click.  Click once (without the shift key) where
you want the line to start, move to the other end of the line, and
hold down the shift key.  Gimp will show you where the line will be:
and when you click (still holding shift), it will draw a straight
line, using the current tool, color, and brush.

This might be a good time to mention guides.  If you ever need to
position something accurately -- a selection, a line you're drawing,
or a layer -- if you click on the ruler to the left of the image,
and drag right, out into the image, you'll see a line follows you.
That's a guide.  When you release the mouse button, the guide will
stay where you put it (and if you need it at a specific location,
just watch the coordinates in the lower left corner of the image
window until the coordinates are what you want).  Similarly, you
can drag from the top ruler, down, to get a horizontal guide.
You can make as many guides as you want.  They're not part of the
image: they're just hints to help you position things accurately.
If you make a selection and drag near a guide, the selection will
"snap to" the guide.  This is especially helpful for positioning
elliptical selections.

OTHER LINE DRAWING TOOLS

A few other line drawing tools:

Airbrush draws fuzzy lines that get bigger if you stay in one place.
Ink Pen draws with an asymmetric brush -- it's good for calligraphy.
Both these tools also respond to pressure if you have special hardware
like a drawing tablet.
Eraser: erases to the background color (or to transparent, if the
layer you're drawing on has transparency).

Finally, you can clear (erase) an area by selecting it, using any
selection tool, then doing Edit->Clear.  This is bound to Ctrl-K
(like "clear to end of line" in the shell, emacs or most other
linux programs) and I find I use it often enough that I usually
use the key binding rather than the menus.

Drawing, like most things in gimp, is undoable.  If you've been
scribbling away trying out some of these things, try undoing now:
hit ctrl-Z repeatedly and watch your lines and squiggles disappear
one by one, until you hit the limit of Gimp's Undo buffer.  (This
is configurable: in File->Preferences there's a setting for the size
of the undo stack.  Larger means more room for correcting oopses, but
gimp will take up more memory.)

FILLING AN AREA

Most of the time, the Bucket Fill tool is the one to use when you want
a filled shape, like a circle or rectangle.

First make a selection where you want the shape to be, using the
rectangle or ellipse selection tool from lesson 4.  You might even
want to try the free select tool -- also known as the "Lasso tool" for
its icon in the toolbox.  This lets you make a selection of any shape,
as long as you can draw it in one go without releasing the mouse
button.  You can even use free select to cut out shapes or people from
an image -- but there are easier ways of doing that, as we'll discuss
in a later lesson.

Then select Bucket Fill -- it looks like it's pouring paint from a
paint can -- and click inside the selection.  It should fill with the
foreground color.

Bucket Fill has some interesting options, though.  First, you can
"fill whole selection" or "fill similar colors".  "Whole selection"
is obvious, and is most often what you want.  "Similar colors" is a
bit trickier: you can click on a pixel in a photograph, and bucket
fill will try to fill nearby colors that are "similar enough" to the
place where you clicked.  You can adjust how similar they need to be
with the Threshold slider.  This can do strange things to your image;
try it, if you have a photo loaded in gimp, but don't be surprised
if you have to Undo.

In addition, you can also bucket fill with a pattern.  Try it:
click Pattern Fill in the tool options dialog, select an area in the
image, then click inside it.

The currently chosen pattern is shown in a little square in the
toolbox, just to the right of the active brush.  Clicking on it
brings up the Patterns dialog, where you can choose from a wide
selection.  Try some of them!  Click on a pattern in the Patterns
dialog (notice that the active pattern shown in the toolbox changes),
then go back to the image and click on your selection again.

ERASING

Two final tools left to mention.  One is the eraser (located near the
paintbrush), which does the obvious.  The other is that whenever you
have something selected, you can Edit->Cut or Edit->Clear to erase the
whole selection.  (The difference is that Cut copies it so that you
can paste it later, whereas Clear just erases it.)

Here's the image I have left after scribbling around while writing this
lesson.  It looks like something a five-year-old made with Tux Paint. :-)
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson5/art.jpg

DRAWING ON TOP OF IMAGES

For this lesson, we started with a blank canvas.  But you can draw
on top of a photo, too!  For instance, how about cartoon thought
bubbles, like Poppy's cat had in Lesson 4?

I'll start with a photo of my last manager's dog, Polarbear, who used
to brighten up our group meetings.  Here he is at a meeting:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson5/pb.jpg

Now I need some text.  I can't make the thought bubble until I know
how big the text is going to be.  The text is in its own layer.
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson5/pb-text.jpg

Now I'll make a new layer to hold my thought bubble.  I very strongly
recommend that you make a new layer for any drawing you do on top of
an existing image.  Any drawing you do in this layer will be optional:
if you erase, you'll erase your drawing, not the original image, and
if you decide you don't like your drawing, you can throw it all away
and the image underneath will be fine.

Go to the Layers dialog, and click the New Layer button.  The new
layer needs to be transparent (which should be the default).  In the
"Create a New Layer" dialog, I'll change the layer name to be "thought
bubble" so it will be easy to remember which layer is which.  You
don't have to name your layer, but it will make things easier later
when you make image with lots of layers.  I click OK, and the new
layer is created.

But here's a tricky part: I need the thought bubble to be underneath
the text, not on top of it. The bubble layer needs to be in between
the Background and the text layer.  Right now, the thought bubble is
on top, and if I draw a white area on it, that white area will hide
the text behind it.

I solve this by clicking the down arrow button in the Layers dialog to
move the "thought bubble" layer down.  The down and up arrows always
move the currently selected layer.

I'm finally ready to draw!  I'll make my bubble oval: I use the
elliptical selection tool until I have an oval just the right size.
Then switch to the bucket fill tool, set the color to white (or pick
"BG color fill" if the background color is already white), and click
inside the oval but not on top of the text.  Voila!  A white thought
bubble layer under the text.  Now it looks like this:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson5/pb-bubble.jpg

Notice that the text isn't really centered on the bubble?  It's fairly
difficult to control exactly where an elliptical selection will end
up, but that's okay: all I have to do is switch to the move tool, and
drag the bubble layer around until I'm happy with its placement.
(Notice that you can still see the selection outline, and it's no
longer lined up with the bubble.  I use Select->None to get rid of
the selection once I no longer need it.)

I'm not quite done yet, though.  I still need some dots
to link the thought bubble to the coot doing the thinking.
I can either make another new layer for that, or draw it on the
thought bubble layer.  I'm going to make a new layer for it.
Why?  (1) it means I can change to a different shaped thought
bubble layer, and (2) it means I can change my mind later about
which bird is doing the thinking, and replace just that part.

It isn't critical whether this new layer is above or below the thought
bubble layer or text layer, because it won't overlap with either one
of them.  It's only when layers overlap that you need to worry about
which one is on top.

On this new layer (I called it "bubbles") I'll make several small
circular selections and fill them each with white:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson5/pb-allbubbles.jpg

But there's still something missing.  The small bubbles are hard to
see against that busy background.  Okay, class, what do we do when we
want to make something stand out?  You, there in the second row.
That's right!  A drop shadow!  I make a drop shadow on the thought
bubble layer, and another one on the bubbles layer.

Here's the final image:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson5/pb-meetings.jpg

Since I made the thought bubble layer separate from the bubbles layer,
I can even go back and try a different shape of thought bubble.
If I toggle visibility off (remember, click on the "eye" icon in the
layers dialog) on the thought bubble and its drop shadow, then use
the lasso select tool to draw a puffy-cloud shape, fill it with
bucket fill, then add a drop shadow, here's what I get:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson5/pb-cloud.jpg

Don't forget to save your image as .xcf as well as a .jpg!  That way
you can go back and make changes to any of these layers at any time.
Mine is here (and you can see where I tried another set of bubbles,
but decided they didn't work as well so I didn't use them):
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson5/pb-meetings.xcf

If you look at the xcf in gimp, you may notice that I've renamed
all the various drop shadow layers.  I was getting confused keeping
track of which shadow layer went with which bubble, so I doubleclicked
on each shadow layer and edited the name that way.

Here's what my layers dialog looks like now (GIMP can take a screen shot
of any window, with File->Aquire->Screen Shot, then click on the window):
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson5/layersdialog.jpg

Homework: either a drawing on a blank canvas, or something drawn
on top of an existing image.  Be silly!  Be creative!  Have fun!

Next lesson: Removing unwanted objects from photos.

From photopoppy@gmail.com  Sun Feb 27 16:38:34 2005
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Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2005 21:38:25 -0800
From: Poppy Casper <photopoppy@gmail.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 5: Basic Drawing Tools
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Thanks, Akkana. That's a lot of information!

Here's a sequence of mine.

First of all, I discovered how to turn my old Paint Shop Pro "picture
tubes" into GIMP brushes - sooo.... I converted a handful of my
favorites. I love the pepper brush, but it's just not enough!

I started with a 640x480 blank white "canvas"

First of all, I added a gradient using the "fill with gradient" tool.
I set sky blue as my foreground, white as my background, and fidgeted
with the gradient tool until I had the sky line mostly straight.

http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/lesson5_1.jpg

Next, I added some trees with a tree brush in a separate layer:
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/lesson5_2.jpg

After that, I made a third layer for the grass. Everything after this
point needed to be scaled down to fit. The grass brush wanted to make
each blade of grass nearly as tall as my canvas, so I had to scale
down the layer after adding some grass. I filled the width of the
screen by copying and pasting the same section, then merged all 5
layers of grass together.
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/lesson5_3.jpg

Next came the clouds:
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/lesson5_4.jpg

And the sun:
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/lesson5_5.jpg

And, finally, I added some animals (butterflies and a cat), also from
brushes. The butterflies were colored in using the "paint with ink"
tool.
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/lesson5_final.jpg

The brushes I used are available at 
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/brushes.zip  (3MB)

--Poppy

From carol@gimp.org  Sun Feb 27 16:51:57 2005
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 5: Basic Drawing Tools
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On Sat, Feb 26, 2005 at 09:38:25PM -0800, Poppy Casper wrote:
> Thanks, Akkana. That's a lot of information!
> 
> Here's a sequence of mine.
> 
> First of all, I discovered how to turn my old Paint Shop Pro "picture
> tubes" into GIMP brushes - sooo.... I converted a handful of my
> favorites. I love the pepper brush, but it's just not enough!
> 
> I started with a 640x480 blank white "canvas"
> 
> First of all, I added a gradient using the "fill with gradient" tool.
> I set sky blue as my foreground, white as my background, and fidgeted
> with the gradient tool until I had the sky line mostly straight.
> 
> http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/lesson5_1.jpg
> 
> Next, I added some trees with a tree brush in a separate layer:
> http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/lesson5_2.jpg
> 
> After that, I made a third layer for the grass. Everything after this
> point needed to be scaled down to fit. The grass brush wanted to make
> each blade of grass nearly as tall as my canvas, so I had to scale
> down the layer after adding some grass. I filled the width of the
> screen by copying and pasting the same section, then merged all 5
> layers of grass together.
> http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/lesson5_3.jpg
> 
> Next came the clouds:
> http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/lesson5_4.jpg
> 
> And the sun:
> http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/lesson5_5.jpg
> 
> And, finally, I added some animals (butterflies and a cat), also from
> brushes. The butterflies were colored in using the "paint with ink"
> tool.
> http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/lesson5_final.jpg
> 
> The brushes I used are available at 
> http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/brushes.zip  (3MB)
> 
hi,

i checked for a couple of these images and they were not available.

i did get the brushes, however.

thanks,
carol


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From: Poppy Casper <photopoppy@gmail.com>
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Subject: Fwd: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 5: Basic Drawing Tools
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Since the file names were incorrect (capitalization is not my friend),
I'm re-sending with the correct URLs:


---------- Forwarded message ----------

Thanks, Akkana. That's a lot of information!

Here's a sequence of mine.

First of all, I discovered how to turn my old Paint Shop Pro "picture
tubes" into GIMP brushes - sooo.... I converted a handful of my
favorites. I love the pepper brush, but it's just not enough!

I started with a 640x480 blank white "canvas"

First of all, I added a gradient using the "fill with gradient" tool.
I set sky blue as my foreground, white as my background, and fidgeted
with the gradient tool until I had the sky line mostly straight.

http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/Lesson5_1.jpg

Next, I added some trees with a tree brush in a separate layer:
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/Lesson5_2.jpg

After that, I made a third layer for the grass. Everything after this
point needed to be scaled down to fit. The grass brush wanted to make
each blade of grass nearly as tall as my canvas, so I had to scale
down the layer after adding some grass. I filled the width of the
screen by copying and pasting the same section, then merged all 5
layers of grass together.
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/Lesson5_3.jpg

Next came the clouds:
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/Lesson5_4.jpg

And the sun:
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/Lesson5_5.jpg

And, finally, I added some animals (butterflies and a cat), also from
brushes. The butterflies were colored in using the "paint with ink"
tool.
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/Lesson5_final.jpg

The brushes I used are available at
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~sylph/Images/brushes.zip  (3MB)

--Poppy

From kproot@nerim.net  Tue Mar  1 06:16:13 2005
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From: Karine Proot <kproot@nerim.net>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 5: Basic Drawing Tools
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Good feeling like a 5 years old :D

The translated course and my homework can be found at
http://edhel.nerim.net/soeurs/article.php3?id_article=19

I just added one thing to Akkana's course - filling with a gradient, because I just love that tool. It always takes me five seconds to remember you have to drag with it, only clicking will do nothing.

Looking forward to the next lesson!
Karine

From patpeck@znet.com  Thu Mar  3 16:46:35 2005
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  Whew!  I've finally done my homework for Lesson 5.  Please bear in 
mind that I can't draw my way out of a paper bag with drawing materials, 
let alone with a mouse or trackball, so it's just a demonstration that I 
sort of got the lesson.  In fact, I spent the first couple of days just 
playing with the drawing materials and doing what started out 
representational and ended up being an abstract.  But hey, it was fun.

Anyway, here's the homework:

http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/Lesson5.jpg

-- 

        ...Pat

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Fri Mar  4 17:14:21 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 5: Basic Drawing Tools
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gimp Lesson 5 - drawing tools

I'm no artist, but the straight line feature (shift-click) of the pencil 
tool is a lot of fun to play with.  So I built a desk, in a room, with a 
monitor on the desk, and a window.  I pasted a gif I had of a pile of 
smiley faces onto the monitor, along with a couple lines of text.  I used 
the pencil & shift click and bucket fill to make a small stack of paper, 
and found X's in the brushes dialogue to make some marks on the paper. 

Then I found a cat to lay on my stack of paper and used the freehand select 
tool (and lots of "undo") to remove the previous background from around the 
cat, and after lots of trial and error also removed the white background I 
was left with.  I used the "select contiguous regions" wand thingie and 
then select > invert while the white background was selected.

At this time I decided I had too many layers, and the three layers on my 
monitor could be one.  So, while making my cat invisible I merged the 
visible layers.

I have another cat who was on the refrigerator but I thought she would look 
good on the monitor, so I repeated the process I used with the other cat... 
but for some reason I can see stuff through her.  I don't know what I did 
different.  But on the layers, channels and paths dialogue is a "duplicate 
layer" button, which looks like two sheets of paper.  I duplicated the 
monitor cat a couple of times and that darkened her up.  

I wanted a window, but when I pasted it into my picture it showed up in 
front of the monitor.  so I clicked the eye to make it invisible and 
duplicated that part of the monitor it was covering up, and pasted that as 
a new layer.  I had to rearrange the layers so the window was right on top 
of the background, then the monitor on top of that, then the cat (and her 
duplicates) on the monitor.  I know I'm probably making this way too 
complicated.  I added a window frame & sill and hung a picture on the wall 
and used "pattern fill" on the bucket dialogue to veneer those and to add 
texture to the wall... scattered some crap around the desk and added drop 
shadows.  Taa daa.

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/lesson5.jpg

(before adding most of the layers)

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/lesson5a.jpg

(after adding them)

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/lesson5.xcf

(the xcf - well duh)

:)

Julie

no cats were harmed in making this image
-- 



From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Fri Mar  4 14:49:51 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 5: Basic Drawing Tools
Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 22:50:40 -0500
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On Friday 25 February 2005 07:48 pm, Akkana Peck wrote:
> For this lesson we'll take a step back from photographs, and
> learn how to use the gimp for drawing.
>


Sorry if this comes through twicet - first time isn't showing up an hour=20
after I sent it...



Today 09:43:53 pm

gimp Lesson 5 - drawing tools

I'm no artist, but the straight line feature (shift-click) of the pencil=20
tool is a lot of fun to play with. =A0So I built a desk, in a room, with a=
=20
monitor on the desk, and a window. =A0I pasted a gif I had of a pile of=20
smiley faces onto the monitor, along with a couple lines of text. =A0I used=
=20
the pencil & shift click and bucket fill to make a small stack of paper,=20
and found X's in the brushes dialogue to make some marks on the paper.=20

Then I found a cat to lay on my stack of paper and used the freehand select=
=20
tool (and lots of "undo") to remove the previous background from around the=
=20
cat, and after lots of trial and error also removed the white background I=
=20
was left with. =A0I used the "select contiguous regions" wand thingie and=20
then select > invert while the white background was selected.

At this time I decided I had too many layers, and the three layers on my=20
monitor could be one. =A0So, while making my cat invisible I merged the=20
visible layers.

I have another cat who was on the refrigerator but I thought she would look=
=20
good on the monitor, so I repeated the process I used with the other cat...=
=20
but for some reason I can see stuff through her. =A0I don't know what I did=
=20
different. =A0But on the layers, channels and paths dialogue is a "duplicat=
e=20
layer" button, which looks like two sheets of paper. =A0I duplicated the=20
monitor cat a couple of times and that darkened her up. =A0

I wanted a window, but when I pasted it into my picture it showed up in=20
front of the monitor. =A0so I clicked the eye to make it invisible and=20
duplicated that part of the monitor it was covering up, and pasted that as=
=20
a new layer. =A0I had to rearrange the layers so the window was right on to=
p=20
of the background, then the monitor on top of that, then the cat (and her=20
duplicates) on the monitor. =A0I know I'm probably making this way too=20
complicated. =A0I added a window frame & sill and hung a picture on the wal=
l=20
and used "pattern fill" on the bucket dialogue to veneer those and to add=20
texture to the wall... scattered some crap around the desk and added drop=20
shadows. =A0Taa daa.

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/lesson5.jpg

(before adding most of the layers)

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/lesson5a.jpg

(after adding them)

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/lesson5.xcf

(the xcf - well duh)

:)

Julie

no cats were harmed in making this image
=2D-=20

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Fri Mar  4 16:51:34 2005
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Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2005 21:25:19 -0800
From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 5: Basic Drawing Tools
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Wow, some of you already do stuff I don't know how to do in gimp,
like making new brushes.  It's been really fun (as always) to
see everyone's homework projects!

Julie Sloan writes:
> Then I found a cat to lay on my stack of paper and used the freehand se=
lect=20
> tool (and lots of "undo") to remove the previous background from around=
 the=20
> cat, and after lots of trial and error also removed the white backgroun=
d I=20
> was left with.

Freehand select is hard to do accurantely, isn't it?  Fortunately there's
an easier way (Bezier select) -- I'll talk about that in Lesson 7.
It's easier because you connect-the-dots to make an outline, so
you can stop and take a breath and massage your cramped fingers.
(It's easier for other reasons, too.)

>=A0I used the "select contiguous regions" wand thingie and=20
> then select > invert while the white background was selected.
[ ... ]
> I have another cat who was on the refrigerator but I thought she would =
look=20
> good on the monitor, so I repeated the process I used with the other ca=
t...=20
> but for some reason I can see stuff through her. =A0I don't know what I=
 did=20

I'm not sure why either.  But if you used "select contiguous regions" on
the second cat, it might be that some areas got partially selected.
She's already transparent by the time she shows up in the xcf --
I checked to see if the layer had gotten transparent, but that
wasn't it, so it must have been that for some reason she was only
partially selected before you copied her.

I'm also not sure how to make a partially transparent layer opaque
again.  I played with various operations and couldn't find an easy
way.  The best I found was to select the layer in the layers dialog,
go back to the image and Copy, then Edit->Paste as New, then in the
new image, do Image->Flatten Image.  That gets a cat with the right
color pattern, but with a white background.  Then
Layer->Transparency->Add Alpha Channel so the new image can do
transparency again, Select by Color to select the white background,
Clear, Copy, then paste back into the original image.

What a pain!  There must be a better way, but I couldn't find it.

> layer" button, which looks like two sheets of paper. =A0I duplicated th=
e=20
> monitor cat a couple of times and that darkened her up. =A0

But that's a clever workaround!  And a lot easier than my long method.

> I wanted a window, but when I pasted it into my picture it showed up in=
=20
> front of the monitor. =A0so I clicked the eye to make it invisible and=20
> duplicated that part of the monitor it was covering up, and pasted that=
 as=20
> a new layer. =A0I had to rearrange the layers so the window was right o=
n top=20
> of the background, then the monitor on top of that, then the cat (and h=
er=20
> duplicates) on the monitor. =A0I know I'm probably making this way too=20
> complicated.=20

Sometimes that's exactly what you have to do when you have two figures
intertwined: duplicate part of a layer and move it up or down in the
stack.  One thing you can do to make it a little easier is to use
one layer to select part of another layer.  For instance, in
http://shallowsky.com/software/justmoon/justmoon.jpg
I wanted the j and the m to intertwine.  So I put the j layer
(and its shadow) on top, and then on the layer with the m, I
used "select by color" or some similar tool to select the m,
then went back to the j layer and did Edit->Clear to cut that part out.
Alternately, I could have put the j underneath, used the m to select
the part of the j that needed to be on top, duplicated that part of
the j and made a new layer on top of the m.

        ...Akkana

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Fri Mar  4 17:36:03 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 5: Basic Drawing Tools
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 01:36:55 -0500
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On Friday 04 March 2005 12:25 am, Akkana Peck wrote:
> Wow, some of you already do stuff I don't know how to do in gimp,
> like making new brushes.=20

That wasn't me  :) =20

> Julie Sloan writes:
> > Then I found a cat to lay on my stack of paper and used the freehand
> > select tool (and lots of "undo") to remove the previous background from
> > around the cat, and after lots of trial and error also removed the
> > white background I was left with.
>
> Freehand select is hard to do accurantely, isn't it?

Yes it is!  I found it's easier to select bits and pieces to remove than tr=
y=20
to select all of what I want to keep.  Then I select that and paste it into=
=20
a new temporary image, to play with background colors and make sure I have=
=20
all the little snips of whatever gone.

> > I have another cat who was on the refrigerator but I thought she would
> > look good on the monitor, so I repeated the process I used with the
> > other cat... but for some reason I can see stuff through her. =A0I don't
> > know what I did
>
> I'm not sure why either.  But if you used "select contiguous regions" on
> the second cat, it might be that some areas got partially selected.
> She's already transparent by the time she shows up in the xcf --
> I checked to see if the layer had gotten transparent, but that
> wasn't it, so it must have been that for some reason she was only
> partially selected before you copied her.

I noticed later I had the "threshold" on the wand tool set higher than the=
=20
default 15, by accident.  Don't know if that would cause it or not.  Also=20
later on I somehow lost the original black cat layer and ended up with only=
=20
the three duplicates!  This, or something, made her green eye color=20
disappear and I could not get it back on the first few tries, and I had=20
more to do, so I moved on.

> I'm also not sure how to make a partially transparent layer opaque
> again.  I played with various operations and couldn't find an easy
> way.  The best I found was to select the layer in the layers dialog,
> go back to the image and Copy, then Edit->Paste as New, then in the
> new image, do Image->Flatten Image.  That gets a cat with the right
> color pattern, but with a white background.  Then
> Layer->Transparency->Add Alpha Channel so the new image can do
> transparency again, Select by Color to select the white background,
> Clear, Copy, then paste back into the original image.

 I'm going to practice that.  It took me forever and lots of trial and erro=
r=20
to get rid of the white backgrounds around the cats, because I could _not_=
=20
find "select by color", although I'd used it before.  Looked just now, and=
=20
it's right there.  Maybe my monitorcat-of-the-hour had his or her tail in=20
the way. =20

> One thing you can do to make it a little easier is to use
> one layer to select part of another layer.  For instance, in
> http://shallowsky.com/software/justmoon/justmoon.jpg
> I wanted the j and the m to intertwine.  So I put the j layer
> (and its shadow) on top, and then on the layer with the m, I
> used "select by color" or some similar tool to select the m,

That's _cool_ looking.   I need to play with intertwining stuff like that,=
=20
too...

Julie
=2D-=20

From photopoppy@gmail.com  Sat Mar  5 01:14:42 2005
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On Thu, 3 Mar 2005 21:25:19 -0800, Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com> wrote:
> Wow, some of you already do stuff I don't know how to do in gimp,
> like making new brushes.  It's been really fun (as always) to
> see everyone's homework projects!
> 

I don't so much already know how to do a lot of stuff as know how to
use google really, really well ;-)

--Poppy

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Fri Mar  4 16:44:02 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 5: Basic Drawing Tools
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PS: I meant to comment earlier in the discussion of Elmo's shadow that I
thought the shadow looked really well done.  Those aren't that easy to
do.  I did a somewhat similar project for a holiday card a few
years back: http://shallowsky.com/images/cards/xmascard2002.jpg.
Adding myself was easy, but putting in a shadow that looked halfway
decent was the hardest part.  And now that I look at it again,
I like Elmo's shadow better and want to go back and re-do mine. :-)

        ...Akkana

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Sat Mar  5 16:49:23 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 5: Basic Drawing Tools
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On Friday 25 February 2005 07:48 pm, Akkana Peck wrote:
> For this lesson we'll take a step back from photographs, and
> learn how to use the gimp for drawing.
>


I'd like to add something here, on drawing  :)


Years ago my father was back in school and taking a drafting course.  I was 
interested, so he explained his homework to me.  I thought "foreshortening" 
was way cool and still remember how:

To make a room (for example), you begin with a rectangle, then place a dot 
ANYWHERE inside that rectangle.  From this spot all your lines will 
radiate.  Beginning at the spot and passing precisely through each corner 
of your rectangle, you make your floor/wall and floor/ceiling junctures.  
Other lines placed at random (but also beginning at that same spot) can be 
used to locate windows, wall hangings, rugs, even furniture!  

I used the Gimp's patterns and "pattern fill" option of the bucket tool to 
make a quick example:

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/room.jpg

enjoy  :)
Julie

-- 


From akkana@shallowsky.com  Sun Mar  6 14:17:53 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 5: Basic Drawing Tools
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Julie Sloan writes:
> To make a room (for example), you begin with a rectangle, then place a dot 
> ANYWHERE inside that rectangle.  From this spot all your lines will 
[ ... ]
> http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/room.jpg

That's cool!  Neat example!

Gimp has tool called Perspective: in gimp 1.2, it's an option on the
Rotate tool, while in gimp 2 it has its own button in the toolbox.  

The perspective tool is a different sort of thing: it can take existing
images and change them to fit in a "room" like in Julie's example, or
make them into a 3-dimensional object: select the perspective tool,
click on the image, then drag the mouse around, you can take something
that started rectangular and make it look like it's going away or coming
toward you.  It's very useful for doing things like sides of boxes,
like the right side of the box in
http://shallowsky.com/software/pandora/pandora.jpg -- that's just a
rectangular selection, fill with a woodgrain pattern, rotate,
use the perspective tool, and finally darken it a little.

The tool isn't a replacement for making a perspective drawing like
Julie's example: that "lines radiating from points" is a really useful
technique to know, and seeing a "room" like that makes it a lot easier
to understand how perspective works.  They'd work really well together,
too: draw the room first, with the windows and everything else you want
to draw, then paste objects copied from other images and make them look
right in the room using the tool.

The "shear" tool, right next to perspective, is also fun to play
with.  Sometimes you can combine it with perspective and rotate.

Thanks, Julie!

        ...Akkana

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Sun Mar  6 14:45:20 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
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On Saturday 05 March 2005 10:17 pm, Akkana Peck wrote:

> Gimp has tool called Perspective: in gimp 1.2, it's an option on the
> Rotate tool, while in gimp 2 it has its own button in the toolbox.
>
> The perspective tool is a different sort of thing: it can take existing
> images and change them to fit in a "room" like in Julie's example, or
> make them into a 3-dimensional object

Yay!  So with a little practice I can place photos in the picture frames on 
the walls?

BTW I have my hands full cleaning up literally hundreds of pictures now that 
I know how to smudge, etc.  Thanks a LOT, Akkana!!!  ;)  I just couldn't 
stop myself showing off, so it's my own fault.  (Husband's aunt -the family 
genealogist- will be bringing me all her crinkled old family photos next, 
LOL)

Julie BS
-- 

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Sat Mar  5 07:14:47 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 6: Erasing Unwanted Objects from Images
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One of the best uses for an image editing program is to erase
things you wish weren't in the picture.  Maybe you have a great
photo of your sweetie except there's a telephone pole growing out of
his head; maybe that outhouse in the background really takes away from
your nice scenery photo.  For whatever reason, learning to remove
stuff from images is a fun and important gimpish skill.

Removing objects undetectably can be very difficult.  I'll touch
on several techniques you can use for simple removals.  For difficult
projects involving complicated backgrounds, it will usually take a
combination of several tools, plus lots of patience.

Let's start with this hummingbird image:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson6/hummer-orig.jpg

Isn't that branch annoying?  The one going straight through her head?
And that other branch that's blocking our view of her?
Let's explore some techniques for removing them.

SMUDGE

An easy tool to start with is the Smudge tool.  It looks like a hand
with a pointing finger.  Smudge does exactly what the name implies: it
behaves as though you were smudging or smearing the image with your
finger.  Select it in the toolbox, and look at the tool options.

Notice that the smudge tool has a Brush associated with it.  The brush
you choose makes a big difference.  Most of the time, you'll probably
want a fairly large brush, with a fuzzy edge, not a sharp edge.
But for very small images, you may want to use a small brush, or
even one with sharp edges.  I'm going to choose "Circle Fuzzy (15)",
the third-from-largest fuzzy circle.

Now I'm going to try to smudge out that small branch under the bird's
bill.  The smudge tool will drag color from wherever I start, onto
where I drag.  So I'm going to drag from the bright area, onto the
branch.  Smudging only works over a short distance (the color "runs
out" after a little while); so I have to smudge repeatedly, many
times, to get rid of the branch.  I go back and forth, sometimes
dragging from below the branch upward, sometimes from above downward.

Remember, you can always zoom in to get a better view of the part of
the image where you're working.  Hitting = or + a couple of times
can help you see what you're doing.

Digression: Zooming in is useful, but if you have a small image,
sometimes it makes it hard to see how the image looks at its native
size.  Here's a nifty GIMP trick: multiple views of the same image!
Choose the first item in the View menu, New View.  This opens a new
window showing the exact same image as the original window.  Then you
can make one big and one small; do your painting and smudging on the
big window, and look at the small one to see the result of your work.

Back to smudging: you're doing lots and lots of little motions, each
one of which is an action as far as Undo is concerned.  So you probably
won't be able to Undo a whole smudging session, though you can always
undo the last few bits of it.  Be sure to save your work before you
start smudging, and if you decide smudging wasn't the right thing, you
can use "File->Revert" to go back to the image before you started.

Here's what it looks like partway in:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson6/hummer-somesmudge.jpg
and all the way:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson6/hummer-smudged.jpg

CLONE

The Clone tool iss similar to smudge, but more powerful.  Clone
"remembers" a source region which you choose; then, as you paint in
the image, instead of painting a fixed color, Clone will copy from
that source image.  The icon in the toolbox looks like a rubber stamp,
and the tooltip says "Paint using Patterns or Image Regions".

I'm going to go after that vertical branch that's blocking some of
our view of the hummingbird.  I can't use the smudge tool for that,
because her breast and wing have feather patterns, and smudging
will spoil that and will end up looking artificial.  But if
I can copy the feather patterns from her breast, I might be able to
use them to paint over that branch.  I'll use a slightly smaller brush
than I used with the smudge tool, Circle Fuzzy (13), because I don't
want to slop over and get white breast-feather pattern painted over
the bird's wing or head.

The clone tool has to be initialized before you can paint with it.
At first, when the clone tool is selected, when you move your mouse
into the image, the mouse cursor will show a circle-slash, meaning
"You can't paint anything yet!"  Select a source region with
ctrl-click: move the mouse where you want your source region, hold
down control, and click the left mouse button.  Do this as close as
possible to the piece you want to remove, so that the color and
pattern will be right.  But you can't get too close, or else, when you
paint with the clone tool, part of the source pattern you're painting
will be exactly the part you want to remove!

Once you've ctrl-clicked, the mouse cursor should no longer show that
circle-slash.  You're ready to paint!  Do so, in very small strokes,
just like you did with the smudge tool earlier.  You may find that
you have to paint a small area, then select a new source image
(ctrl-click again) because the color changes.  For instance, my
hummingbird is light colored where the sun is hitting her, but has a
shadowed portion down near the branch she's sitting on.  I'll need
to paint those two areas separately, with different source regions.
Here she is with the parts in front of her removed with the clone tool: 
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson6/hummer-clone.jpg

COPYING SELECTED AREAS

I could go on using Clone and Smudge to paint out the rest of the
branch, but I have a shortcut for the next step: I'm going to select
a region next to the branch that's the same shape as the branch, then
paste it on top of the branch.  If that doesn't make sense, bear with
me while I follow the steps:

First, I'll use a selection tool to select the part of the branch
still above the bird.  Regardless of which tool I use, I want the
selection "feathered", which means that the edges of the selection
will be fuzzy, not sharp.  Sharp lines in selections tend to stand out
when you paste them somewhere else.  All of the selection tools have a
"feather" option in the Tool Options dialog, where you can set how
fuzzy you want the edges to be.

I'm going to use the lasso ("free select") tool, which lets me
hand-draw the outline of the branch.  It's not critical that the
outline exactly follow the branch; the important thing is that my
selection is entirely outside the branch, and that it's in the right
place in places where the branch touches the bird or the branch above
it.  Here's a screenshot of my selection:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson6/hummer-branchselect.jpg

Now I have the branch (and a little padding around it) selected.
But what I actually want is to copy something right next to the
branch, not the branch itself.  I can get that by moving the selection
over by approximately the width of the branch.

It would be nice if I could just click in the selection and drag it,
but that moves the contents of the selection, leaving a blank white
area behind it.  (Try it!  It's undoable.)

In gimp, alt-drag moves a selection.  That sounds straightforward --
except that in most Linux window managers, alt-drag is already claimed
as "move window".  So when you alt-drag the selection, most likely,
the whole gimp image window moves.  Not what you want!
(Try it.  If it moves the selection, then be happy! and ignore
the next paragraph.)

There are two ways around this.  First, you can configure your window
manager not to use alt-drag to move windows.  This is supposedly the
recommended approach, but I don't recommend it; it means you'll have
to do this on every window manager you ever use, and if you ever try
to show a friend how to do something, it won't work for them.
Fortunately, there's another way: alt-shift-drag also moves the
selection.  Here's where I've moved the selection:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson6/hummer-selectmoved.jpg

Now I Copy, then Paste, as in Lesson 4.  The pasted piece shows up as
a new layer in the layers dialog, and I can Move it using the move
tool (while it's a floating selection, I can also move it just by
dragging it).  It's a bit hard to see the how well the edges match
while I'm doing this, so I temporarily turn the marching ants off with
View->Show Selection, or ctrl-T.  (Don't forget to turn them back on
again afterward.)

When I'm happy with the placement of the new layer, I need to merge it
with the base layer.  Why?  Because I have some extra cruft at the
edge of the pasted layer, plus some extra stuff next to the
hummingbird's head, which I'll need to clean up with Clone or Smudge.
Tools only work on one layer at a time, and I'm going to want to be
able to smudge or clone right across the boundary of the layer I just
pasted.

To merge the selection layer into the background layer, I go
to the Layers dialog, and instead of clicking the New Layer button
as we've done in past lessons, I click the Anchor button.
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson6/hummer-pasted.jpg

Now I Smudge to clean up the area above the hummer's head.  I'll also
use the Clone tool to get rid of the bottom part of the branch.
Here's the result!
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson6/hummer-final.jpg

I'm done!  No more annoying branches in the way.

Homework: Erase something out of an image, using whatever tools seem
most appropriate.

Next Lesson: Advanced selection, with paths; and enhancing just the
selected part of an image.

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Sat Mar  5 14:36:56 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 6: Erasing Unwanted Objects from Images
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2005 22:37:49 -0500
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http://bobsloansampler.com/gimp/lesson6.jpg
http://bobsloansampler.com/gimp/lesson6a.jpg
http://bobsloansampler.com/gimp/lesson6a.xcf

I thought the plastic wading pool and the miniature windmill detracted from 
the sunflowers.  This is simply amazing.  :)

I also removed the guy wires and a big weed from my rose bushes.
http://bobsloansampler.com/gimp/roses2.jpg
http://bobsloansampler.com/gimp/roses2a.jpg

http://bobsloansampler.com/gimp/roses3.jpg
http://bobsloansampler.com/gimp/roses3a.jpg

Julie


On Friday 04 March 2005 03:14 pm, Akkana Peck wrote:
> One of the best uses for an image editing program is to erase
> things you wish weren't in the picture.  Maybe you have a great
> photo of your sweetie except there's a telephone pole growing out of
> his head; maybe that outhouse in the background really takes away from
> your nice scenery photo.  For whatever reason, learning to remove
> stuff from images is a fun and important gimpish skill.
>
> Removing objects undetectably can be very difficult.  I'll touch
> on several techniques you can use for simple removals.  For difficult
> projects involving complicated backgrounds, it will usually take a
> combination of several tools, plus lots of patience.
>
> Let's start with this hummingbird image:
> http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson6/hummer-orig.jpg
>
> Isn't that branch annoying?  The one going straight through her head?
> And that other branch that's blocking our view of her?
> Let's explore some techniques for removing them.
>
> SMUDGE
>
> An easy tool to start with is the Smudge tool.  It looks like a hand
> with a pointing finger.  Smudge does exactly what the name implies: it
> behaves as though you were smudging or smearing the image with your
> finger.  Select it in the toolbox, and look at the tool options.
>
> Notice that the smudge tool has a Brush associated with it.  The brush
> you choose makes a big difference.  Most of the time, you'll probably
> want a fairly large brush, with a fuzzy edge, not a sharp edge.
> But for very small images, you may want to use a small brush, or
> even one with sharp edges.  I'm going to choose "Circle Fuzzy (15)",
> the third-from-largest fuzzy circle.
>
> Now I'm going to try to smudge out that small branch under the bird's
> bill.  The smudge tool will drag color from wherever I start, onto
> where I drag.  So I'm going to drag from the bright area, onto the
> branch.  Smudging only works over a short distance (the color "runs
> out" after a little while); so I have to smudge repeatedly, many
> times, to get rid of the branch.  I go back and forth, sometimes
> dragging from below the branch upward, sometimes from above downward.
>
> Remember, you can always zoom in to get a better view of the part of
> the image where you're working.  Hitting = or + a couple of times
> can help you see what you're doing.
>
> Digression: Zooming in is useful, but if you have a small image,
> sometimes it makes it hard to see how the image looks at its native
> size.  Here's a nifty GIMP trick: multiple views of the same image!
> Choose the first item in the View menu, New View.  This opens a new
> window showing the exact same image as the original window.  Then you
> can make one big and one small; do your painting and smudging on the
> big window, and look at the small one to see the result of your work.
>
> Back to smudging: you're doing lots and lots of little motions, each
> one of which is an action as far as Undo is concerned.  So you probably
> won't be able to Undo a whole smudging session, though you can always
> undo the last few bits of it.  Be sure to save your work before you
> start smudging, and if you decide smudging wasn't the right thing, you
> can use "File->Revert" to go back to the image before you started.
>
> Here's what it looks like partway in:
> http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson6/hummer-somesmudge.jpg
> and all the way:
> http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson6/hummer-smudged.jpg
>
> CLONE
>
> The Clone tool iss similar to smudge, but more powerful.  Clone
> "remembers" a source region which you choose; then, as you paint in
> the image, instead of painting a fixed color, Clone will copy from
> that source image.  The icon in the toolbox looks like a rubber stamp,
> and the tooltip says "Paint using Patterns or Image Regions".
>
> I'm going to go after that vertical branch that's blocking some of
> our view of the hummingbird.  I can't use the smudge tool for that,
> because her breast and wing have feather patterns, and smudging
> will spoil that and will end up looking artificial.  But if
> I can copy the feather patterns from her breast, I might be able to
> use them to paint over that branch.  I'll use a slightly smaller brush
> than I used with the smudge tool, Circle Fuzzy (13), because I don't
> want to slop over and get white breast-feather pattern painted over
> the bird's wing or head.
>
> The clone tool has to be initialized before you can paint with it.
> At first, when the clone tool is selected, when you move your mouse
> into the image, the mouse cursor will show a circle-slash, meaning
> "You can't paint anything yet!"  Select a source region with
> ctrl-click: move the mouse where you want your source region, hold
> down control, and click the left mouse button.  Do this as close as
> possible to the piece you want to remove, so that the color and
> pattern will be right.  But you can't get too close, or else, when you
> paint with the clone tool, part of the source pattern you're painting
> will be exactly the part you want to remove!
>
> Once you've ctrl-clicked, the mouse cursor should no longer show that
> circle-slash.  You're ready to paint!  Do so, in very small strokes,
> just like you did with the smudge tool earlier.  You may find that
> you have to paint a small area, then select a new source image
> (ctrl-click again) because the color changes.  For instance, my
> hummingbird is light colored where the sun is hitting her, but has a
> shadowed portion down near the branch she's sitting on.  I'll need
> to paint those two areas separately, with different source regions.
> Here she is with the parts in front of her removed with the clone tool:
> http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson6/hummer-clone.jpg
>
> COPYING SELECTED AREAS
>
> I could go on using Clone and Smudge to paint out the rest of the
> branch, but I have a shortcut for the next step: I'm going to select
> a region next to the branch that's the same shape as the branch, then
> paste it on top of the branch.  If that doesn't make sense, bear with
> me while I follow the steps:
>
> First, I'll use a selection tool to select the part of the branch
> still above the bird.  Regardless of which tool I use, I want the
> selection "feathered", which means that the edges of the selection
> will be fuzzy, not sharp.  Sharp lines in selections tend to stand out
> when you paste them somewhere else.  All of the selection tools have a
> "feather" option in the Tool Options dialog, where you can set how
> fuzzy you want the edges to be.
>
> I'm going to use the lasso ("free select") tool, which lets me
> hand-draw the outline of the branch.  It's not critical that the
> outline exactly follow the branch; the important thing is that my
> selection is entirely outside the branch, and that it's in the right
> place in places where the branch touches the bird or the branch above
> it.  Here's a screenshot of my selection:
> http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson6/hummer-branchselect.jpg
>
> Now I have the branch (and a little padding around it) selected.
> But what I actually want is to copy something right next to the
> branch, not the branch itself.  I can get that by moving the selection
> over by approximately the width of the branch.
>
> It would be nice if I could just click in the selection and drag it,
> but that moves the contents of the selection, leaving a blank white
> area behind it.  (Try it!  It's undoable.)
>
> In gimp, alt-drag moves a selection.  That sounds straightforward --
> except that in most Linux window managers, alt-drag is already claimed
> as "move window".  So when you alt-drag the selection, most likely,
> the whole gimp image window moves.  Not what you want!
> (Try it.  If it moves the selection, then be happy! and ignore
> the next paragraph.)
>
> There are two ways around this.  First, you can configure your window
> manager not to use alt-drag to move windows.  This is supposedly the
> recommended approach, but I don't recommend it; it means you'll have
> to do this on every window manager you ever use, and if you ever try
> to show a friend how to do something, it won't work for them.
> Fortunately, there's another way: alt-shift-drag also moves the
> selection.  Here's where I've moved the selection:
> http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson6/hummer-selectmoved.jpg
>
> Now I Copy, then Paste, as in Lesson 4.  The pasted piece shows up as
> a new layer in the layers dialog, and I can Move it using the move
> tool (while it's a floating selection, I can also move it just by
> dragging it).  It's a bit hard to see the how well the edges match
> while I'm doing this, so I temporarily turn the marching ants off with
> View->Show Selection, or ctrl-T.  (Don't forget to turn them back on
> again afterward.)
>
> When I'm happy with the placement of the new layer, I need to merge it
> with the base layer.  Why?  Because I have some extra cruft at the
> edge of the pasted layer, plus some extra stuff next to the
> hummingbird's head, which I'll need to clean up with Clone or Smudge.
> Tools only work on one layer at a time, and I'm going to want to be
> able to smudge or clone right across the boundary of the layer I just
> pasted.
>
> To merge the selection layer into the background layer, I go
> to the Layers dialog, and instead of clicking the New Layer button
> as we've done in past lessons, I click the Anchor button.
> http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson6/hummer-pasted.jpg
>
> Now I Smudge to clean up the area above the hummer's head.  I'll also
> use the Clone tool to get rid of the bottom part of the branch.
> Here's the result!
> http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson6/hummer-final.jpg
>
> I'm done!  No more annoying branches in the way.
>
> Homework: Erase something out of an image, using whatever tools seem
> most appropriate.
>
> Next Lesson: Advanced selection, with paths; and enhancing just the
> selected part of an image.
> _______________________________________________
> Courses mailing list
> Courses@linuxchix.org
> http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/listinfo/courses

From patpeck@znet.com  Sat Mar  5 15:24:34 2005
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Gosh, it's still Friday, and I have my homework done.  Amazing!  This is 
fun, and will be very, very useful, as I'm only just learning to use the 
camera, too.

Here's the original photo:

http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/crCloudsS.jpg

I got rid of those pesky buildings in the fg by smudging and copying 
some areas of darkness to cover the buildings.  Then there was that 
little area of green at the right, and it looked like an afterthought, 
so I moved some of the road from the other side over there.  It still 
didn't look right, so I went back to Lesson 5 and drew a little road 
extension where it didn't work.

Here's the final product:

http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/Lesson6Road.jpg


    ... Pat

From kproot@nerim.net  Sat Mar  5 19:53:26 2005
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Date: Sat, 5 Mar 2005 09:33:05 +0100
From: Karine Proot <kproot@nerim.net>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 6: Erasing Unwanted Objects from Images
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It took me time to find a suitable picture for that exercise, as I don't have many photos, but I bet my sister will find that useful :)

Here is the translated article with my homework :

http://edhel.nerim.net/soeurs/article.php3?id_article=20

I thought snow was pretty homogeneous and that Fudge would do it ok, but in fact it's very detailed and Clone worked out really nicer. Yay !

Karine

From kjh@flyballdogs.com  Wed Mar  9 15:29:23 2005
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 6: Erasing Unwanted Objects from Images
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Oops, I accidently sent my original reply to akk instead of the list.

I'm a little late with homework but I have my lesson #6 at

http://womensfooty.com/gimpclass

The image I started with was small, lo-res, and crappy but it sure cleane=
d
up nice espcially with clone.

I have another picture that plan to play around with also.

--=20
Kathryn
http://womensfooty.com


From carla@bratgrrl.com  Sun Mar  6 16:20:32 2005
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Now that everyone has amped up their Gimp-fu, here's a howto that might be 
useful:

Building Attractive Web Photo Galleries
http://www.linuxplanet.com/linuxplanet/tutorials/5681/1/

-- 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Carla Schroder
http://www.tuxcomputing.com
check out my new book, the "Linux Cookbook", the ultimate Linux user's 
and sysadmin's guide! http://www.oreilly.com/catalog/linuxckbk/
this message brought to you
by Libranet 2.8 and Kmail
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

From joulie@gmail.com  Sun Mar  6 18:19:54 2005
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On Sat, 5 Mar 2005 19:49:23 -0800, Carla Schroder <carla@bratgrrl.com> wrote:
> Now that everyone has amped up their Gimp-fu, here's a howto that might be
> useful:
> 
> Building Attractive Web Photo Galleries
> http://www.linuxplanet.com/linuxplanet/tutorials/5681/1/
> 

Wow, that's a great article - I _really_ wish I'd seen it a couple of
weeks ago when I decided to start making up my first albums for a new
web server we just recently built for fun.

I'd like to add one tiny little thing: for anyone who's super lazy
like me and wants to create their album with one simple command, try
out MkGallery from http://mkgallery.sourceforge.net/
It's a wrapper around ImageMagick that does all of the dirty work for
you, so you can create your entire gallery using a single command.
It's not the fanciest program in the world and there's not that much
customization that you can do, but it did reduce the task of creating
a complete image gallery to a single command for me, and I liked that
a lot :)
One note: the image files need to end in .jpg and not .JPG, it's case sensitive.

Here's mine as an example of what it can do: 
http://www.geekontheloose.com/ppics/pics/slough/slough01.html

In Gentoo, I was able to emerge the mkgallery package and get all of
the dependencies (like ImageMagick) all in one swoop, probably Debian
and others make that easy, too.

Julie

From carol@gimp.org  Thu Mar 24 09:07:23 2005
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On Sat, Mar 05, 2005 at 07:49:23PM -0800, Carla Schroder wrote:
> Now that everyone has amped up their Gimp-fu, here's a howto that might be 
> useful:
> 
> Building Attractive Web Photo Galleries
> http://www.linuxplanet.com/linuxplanet/tutorials/5681/1/
> 
this is an excellent tutorial and probably the very best way to get from
a stack of images to a bunch of web pages.  i have been learning how to
script web pages with gimp for several years now and the biggest message
i have to share is to "do as i say and not as i do" (borrowed from my
drivers ed teacher).

that said, i have a simple gallery script, written in python and ready
to go i would like to share here.  it will make simple gallery html for
a directory filled with xcfs, you need only to show it your images and
show it where to put the gallery.  the script might be a good starting
point for someone to learn scripting with and i tried to note some of
the places the script can be improved at.

http://carol.gimp.org/gimp2/web/python/gallery-simple.html

there are some broken urls on this page, it is still under
construction....

carol


From akkana@shallowsky.com  Sat Mar 12 14:50:52 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 7: Selecting Complex Shapes
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In Lesson 4, we used some simple basic tools to select part of an
image.  In this lesson, I'll cover selection of complex shapes.
I'll use a butterfly as my sample:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson7/butterfly.jpg

GENERAL ADVICE

When selecting images out of an image, there are two important tricks:
(1) Zoom the image as much as you can, so you can see what you're
doing, and (2) Turn on "feathering".

You may remember zooming from Lesson 1: it changes the size at
which the image is displayed.  Use the View->Zoom menu, or (in gimp
2.2) the menu at the bottom of the image window; or just hit ctrl-= or
ctrl-+ repeatedly until the image is as big as you need it to be.

Feathering means making the edges of the selection "fuzzy".
The edge will only be partially selected, so if you paste such
a selection, the edges will merge with the background below it.
This is important when you're cutting shapes out of an image,
because it helps you avoid sharp edges that make it obvious
that the image has been changed.  Most selection tools have
Feathering as an option in their Tool options.

LASSO SELECT

We touched briefly on the Lasso selection tool in the last lesson.
With it, you can draw an outline around an object in order to select
that object.  But as a few of you found out when you tried to use it
to cut out specific objects, it's tricky to use: you have to hold the
mouse down and drag out the whole shape in one complex motion.

BEZIER PATHS

That's where Bezier Paths come in!  The Bezier (pronounced
"bez-ee-ay") Path tool looks sort of like a fountain pen drawing a
thread through a wire with lumps on it. :-) The tooltip says "Create
and Edit Paths" or "Select Regions with Bezier curves".  Don't get it
confused with the "magic scissors" tool right next to it, which is
somewhat similar (I'll talk about that in a minute).

The Paths tool lets you define a selection of any shape, like the
Lasso, but with Paths, you can go step by step, stop to take a rest,
and edit the path later.

One thing that means is that you can zoom waaaay in on the image.
Make it huge, like 300 or 400% of actual size.  It's okay if you need
scrollbars.  The important thing is that it's big enough that you can
click exactly where you need to, and not have to worry about whether
your hand is accurate enough with the mouse.

Time to start!  Click-and-release the mouse button wherever you want
to start your selection.  Then click a little farther down the line.
Continue around the image, playing "connect the dots" all the way
around. Make the dots as close together or as far apart as you need to
to follow the object's contour.  If you need to scroll, go ahead and
do so.  The mousewheel works for scrolling vertically, if you don't
want to break your concentration by moving over to the scrollbar.

What if you click in the wrong place?

You can edit bezier points at any time.  In gimp 2 this is easy:
go back and mouse over the errant point (watch the mouse cursor
carefully, and make sure it switches to the crossed-arrow icon that
means "move" in gimp), then move it.  "Undo" also works in gimp 2
to remove the last point, in case you clicked in the wrong place.

In gimp 1, ctrl-click seems to move the current point.  (If you hold
down Alt you'll see the cursor change to a "move" icon, but that
moves the whole path, not just one point.)

When you finally get all the way around your object and back to the
first point, click on the first point again to "close" the path.

Look over your path.  You have a nice connect-the-dots of straight
lines framing your image.  If you made the dots close enough together,
this is probably good enough.  But if you want to make the line follow
your object's outlines even more closely, you can make the lines
curve!  In gimp 2, click on Edit Mode: Edit in the tool options.
(Gimp 1 is always in this mode.)  Now, if you click on one of your
dots and drag away a little bit, "handles" will sprout from that
point, and by dragging the handles around, you can make the lines
adjacent to that point curve rather than being straight.  Try it --
it's easier to see than it is to explain.

In truth, I don't use the bezier handles very often.  It's usually
easier to make a lot of points connected by straight lines.  But it's
worthwhile knowing that the handles are there if you ever need them.

Now you have a path, and you've adjusted your points' positions and
handles as much as you're doing to.  You've probably spent quite a lot
of time on this: making a good path is hard work, and takes a lot of
concentration.  So at this point, I often make a backup copy of the
path.  Go to the Layers dialog and select Paths from the tabs at the
top.  You'll see the path you just created there.  Select "Duplicate
Path", either by right-clicking on the path's line in the Paths
dialog, or by clicking on the Duplicate button down at the bottom of
the dialog.  You might also want to name the path, by double-clicking
on the path, which selects the name and lets you type in a new name.

At this point, I recommend saving as XCF, if you haven't already done
so.  This will save the path and the selection, so you won't lose it.

Now turn the path into a selection: "Path to Selection", either from
the button at the bottom of the dialog, the right-click menu on the
path, or (in gimp 2) "Create selection from path" in tool options,
back in the toolbox window.

My selection looks like this:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson7/butterfly-selected.jpg

FEATHERING A PATH-BASED SELECTION

Voila!  You have a beautiful selection.  But what about feathering?

Gimp 1.2 has a Feathering checkbox in the Bezier Selection Tool
Options dialog, like most selection tools.  But that option is gone
from Gimp 2!  In gimp 2, you'll have to use the menus after your
selection is made: Select->Feather...
You can use that on any selection: sometimes it's useful if you've
made a rectangular or lasso selection and decide later that it needs
the edges feathered.

INTELLIGENT SCISSORS

GIMP has a second path tool: the so-called "intelligent scissors", the
scissors icon right next to the path tool (with the tooltip "Select
Shapes from Image").  The Scissors tool creates a path, just like the
regular path tool; but each time you click to create a new point, it
tries to guess where you really wanted it, and warp it there,
following whatever it can find that looks like an outline or sharp
boundary.  Some people like it; others don't.  Try it and see if it
works for you.  But most people end up using the regular path tool
instead of the scissors.

RUNNING FILTERS ON SELECTIONS

You've made your selection.  What can you do with it?

Of course, you can copy, then paste into another image: 
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson7/butterfly-on-white.jpg

But in addition, most gimp operations will operate only on the
selection, if a selection exists.  For example, in this image, the
background is a bit busy.  All the leaves detract a little from the
butterfly.  If I make them darker compared to the butterfly, the
butterfly itself will stand out better.

INVERTING THE SELECTION

Since I want to darken the background, not brighten the butterfly,
what I really want is a selection that includes everything *except*
the butterfly: the exact opposite of the selection I have now.
That's easy: from the menus, Select->Invert.

Now I bring up my any brightness tool from Lesson 2 (I'll use Curves)
and fiddle with the controls, and watch the background change.

HIDING THE SELECTION BOUNDARY

The only problem is that I can't see whether the boundary looks too
obvious, because now those darned "marching ants" are getting in the way.

But I can make the marching ants disappear temporarily:
View->Show Selection, or ctrl-T ("toggle selection").

WARNING: toggling selection visibility off is somewhat dangerous,
because the next time you use selection, you'll try to make a
selection and no marching ants will appear and you'll get all
confused.  Or you'll try to draw something, and it will only draw
in part of the image (where the selection is).  Or at least, I get
confused by that.  So try to remember to toggle selection
back on immediately after you're finished working on a selection.

With the marching ants gone, I can see what I'm doing, and I turn the
background's brightness down to enhance the butterfly, which reamains bright:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson7/butterfly-darkbg.jpg

You can use this technique with most gimp filters: you can sharpen
an object while leaving the background unchanged, or even blur the
background.

BLURRING

You may have noticed all those blur options in gimp's menus, and
wondered, "Why would anyone want to make a picture more blurry
than it already is?"

Blurring is actually surprisingly useful.  For instance, those drop
shadows we've been using so much are made by making a copy of your
text, changing the color to black, then blurring the result.

Blurring can also be useful to de-emphasize parts of an image that
are distracting.  In this case, I'll blur the leaves, which will
make the butterfly look sharper in comparison.

Blur is a submenu, Filters->Blur, and there are lots of types.
I usually use Gaussian Blur, and in gimp 1.2, where there are two
types of Gaussian Blur, just pick one -- they're very similar.
But do experiment with some of the others, like Motion Blur --
they can be fun when you want special effects.

Experiment with blur radius.  Gimp 2 has a preview in the blur dialog,
so you can see exactly what the effect will be.  With gimp 1, just try
something, and undo if you decide you want more or less blur.

Here's my butterfly with a blur radius of 20 (looks unrealistic):
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson7/butterfly-blur.jpg
and with a blur radius of 7 (more subtle and, IMO, better):
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson7/butterfly-lessblur.jpg

Homework: Select a complex shape from an image, using path or
intelligent scissors, and apply any gimp filter (or combination of
filters) to either the shape or its background.  Or, if you prefer,
just paste the shape into another image.

Next lesson: How to get really cool looking text.

From kproot@nerim.net  Sun Mar 13 20:26:41 2005
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Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 10:03:06 +0100
From: Karine Proot <kproot@nerim.net>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 7: Selecting Complex Shapes
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Great ! I had used the Path tool for small tasks already, but this lesson was really nice. At one point I was about to get mad because I had lost my path whil doing some screenshots, but I read further in the lesson and read about the path layer, and I found it hidden there... phew :)

Here is my homework, along with the french translation :
http://edhel.nerim.net/soeurs/article.php3?id_article=21

I spent a lot of time with various color tools to get rid of the blue color on the edges, without much success - I'll have to look back at the lesson that was talking about this !

Karine

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Mon Mar 14 09:48:38 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 7: Selecting Complex Shapes
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 17:48:58 -0500
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On Friday 11 March 2005 10:50 pm, Akkana Peck wrote:
> In Lesson 4, we used some simple basic tools to select part of an
> image.  In this lesson, I'll cover selection of complex shapes.

> GENERAL ADVICE
>
> When selecting images out of an image, there are two important tricks:
> (1) Zoom the image as much as you can, so you can see what you're
> doing, and (2) Turn on "feathering".

Zoom is my friend.  In gimp1.2.5 I use the [+  -  1] keys and do not need 
CTRL with them.  I also think [view > new view] is indispensable when 
editing a zoomed image.

> That's where Bezier Paths come in!  The Bezier (pronounced
> "bez-ee-ay") 

I think of it as "BEE zjer."   I will try to fix this mindset   :)

> Time to start!  Click-and-release the mouse button wherever you want
> to start your selection.

I began with a sunflower:
http://juliesloan.home.mindspring.com/gimp/sunflower.jpg

Here is a screenshot of my initial selection:
http://juliesloan.home.mindspring.com/gimp/snapshot1.jpg

> What if you click in the wrong place?

> In gimp 1, ctrl-click seems to move the current point.

This takes some practice.  
As does making additional paths after the first one; It took me a while to 
figure out had to click "new path" in the paths dialogue BEFORE I start 
selecting.

> Gimp 1.2 has a Feathering checkbox in the Bezier Selection Tool
> Options dialog, like most selection tools.  

FWIW  I turned on feathering in Bezier select, but when I closed the gimp 
and reopened it, it had reverted to the non-feathering default.

> You've made your selection.  What can you do with it?
>
> Of course, you can copy, then paste into another image

I did that:
http://juliesloan.home.mindspring.com/gimp/onwhite.jpg

but then I noticed I needed to take more background out, among the leaves :(  
so I did:
http://juliesloan.home.mindspring.com/gimp/onwhite2.jpg

but this doesn't help if I want to blur or otherwise enhance (dehance?) the 
background, so I went back to my xcf and made more BEEzjer - I mean 
bez-ee-YAY selections
and once I decided how I was going to change the bg made a note of the 
values and applied them to each selection, one at a time:

using colors > curves to lighten and darken, and gaussian blur RLE:

http://juliesloan.home.mindspring.com/gimp/sunflower-light.jpg
http://juliesloan.home.mindspring.com/gimp/sunflower-dark.jpg
http://juliesloan.home.mindspring.com/gimp/sunflower-blur.jpg

[filters >noise > hurl] makes an interesting effect too  :)

I ended up with a favorite, /weird.jpg, which would have looked better with 
a fine edge selected instead of feathered, but still think it's cool.

Julie


> Homework: Select a complex shape from an image, using path or
> intelligent scissors, and apply any gimp filter (or combination of
> filters) to either the shape or its background.  Or, if you prefer,
> just paste the shape into another image.
>
> Next lesson: How to get really cool looking text.
> _______________________________________________
> Courses mailing list
> Courses@linuxchix.org
> http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/listinfo/courses

From kproot@nerim.net  Mon Mar 14 17:16:31 2005
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Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 07:17:43 +0100
From: Karine Proot <kproot@nerim.net>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 7: Selecting Complex Shapes
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On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 17:48:58 -0500
Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com> wrote:

> http://juliesloan.home.mindspring.com/gimp/onwhite.jpg
> 
> but then I noticed I needed to take more background out, among the leaves :(  
> so I did:
> http://juliesloan.home.mindspring.com/gimp/onwhite2.jpg

these are on-white and on-white2, if someone else searches for them :)

> http://juliesloan.home.mindspring.com/gimp/sunflower-light.jpg
> http://juliesloan.home.mindspring.com/gimp/sunflower-dark.jpg
> http://juliesloan.home.mindspring.com/gimp/sunflower-blur.jpg

I like dark and blur! This is amazing how "degrading" an image makes it better, I would never have thought about that.

Karine

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Mon Mar 14 17:25:29 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 7: Selecting Complex Shapes
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On Monday 14 March 2005 01:17 am, Karine Proot wrote:
> On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 17:48:58 -0500
>
> Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com> wrote:
> > http://juliesloan.home.mindspring.com/gimp/onwhite.jpg
> > http://juliesloan.home.mindspring.com/gimp/onwhite2.jpg
>
> these are on-white and on-white2, if someone else searches for them :)

thanks  :)


From patpeck@znet.com  Thu Mar 17 09:26:14 2005
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A bit of a struggle for me this time, but I've done my homework and it 
turned out okay, I think.  I had some problems with the "marching ants" 
around my outline.  At first, I got some kind of extra triangle within 
the image, I have no idea why.  Feathering moved it around to where it 
was hardly noticeable, but it wouldn't disappear completely.

Also, as long as I was looking at where those darned ants were marching 
in relation to my selection, it didn't look right at all.  But when all 
the guides were turned off, it looked okay, so maybe it was just the 
Gimp not being as precise in its indicators as it might be, I dunno. 
OTOH, maybe I did something stupid.  Wouldn't be the first time.

Here's my homework starting with the original image of a camellia in my 
yard:


http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/crwhite1S.jpg


I selected the flower, sharpened it a little, feathered it, then 
inverted to the background and darkened that slightly to increase the 
contrast and make the dead leaves less obvious.  Here's the result:


http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/Lesson7.jpg

-- 

        ...Pat

From cabucholtz@yahoo.com.au  Fri Mar 18 13:44:07 2005
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Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2005 13:37:21 +1100 (EST)
From: Carolyn Bucholtz <cabucholtz@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 7: Selecting Complex Shapes
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Hello,

I've been doing the course, thank you Akkana, for a great course, but
haven't contributed so far because I didn't have a web site that I
could post photos on. I've now set up a yahoo photo site. The first
photo was from the first class, crop and scale. The second photo has
had the cockatoo selected, the background cloned from the trees and
then blurred, a fun lesson !!

http://au.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/cabucholtz/detail?.dir=3D/da37&.dnm=3Dfc=
a2.jpg&.src=3Dph&.tok=3DphbMOsCB21sF1jDH
Cheers,
Carolyn


Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
http://au.movies.yahoo.com

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Sat Mar 19 11:55:39 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
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Subject: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 8: Text Effects (How to get really cool
        looking text)
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Up to now, we've created text using the text tool.
But GIMP can create much more interesting text than that.

LOGO SCRIPTS

Let's start by exploring some of the pre-defined text styles GIMP
offers.  Start GIMP, and in the Toolbox window, look at the menu:
Xtns->Script-Fu->Logos.  For purposes of this lesson, You'll probably
want to use the tear-off (the dotted line at the top of the menu) to
make this menu stand on its own, while you explore some of what it offers.

Depending on your gimp version, you'll probably see about 30
different logo scripts.  Any one of these will bring up a dialog
allowing you to set your text and choose options such as font face,
size, color, and perhaps various options specific to that particular
text style.  Selecting OK will create a new image containing the
new logo text.

Unfortunately, there's no preview.  So your best bet is to browse
through the list, trying anything that looks like it might be useful.

There are lots of logo styles, and most of them have quite a few
options, so this will probably keep you busy for a while.  It's a
lot of fun seeing what's available.  Unfortunately, I don't know of
anywhere where all the available logos are shown together on one page,
so you can quickly decide which logo script is the one you want for
any particular project.  If you decide to make one, please share it!

HOW TO USE A LOGO

These logo images are fun to look at, but how would you paste one
into an image, like a poster or greeting card?

Choose a logo you like, and look at the Layers dialog.  (If you still
have it set to the Paths tab after last week's lesson, go back to
Layers now.)  Notice that the scripts preserve all the layers they
used to make the effect.  (I'll talk in a moment about how some of
these layer tricks work.)

The first thing to notice is the first (bottom) layer, which is
usually a solid background color, usually white.  If you're making a
logo that you want to paste into another image, you probably want a
transparent background (unless the background is an important part of
the image, such as the "Carved" script).  So click on the eyeball icon
in the layers dialog next to the background layer, to make that layer
invisible.  Now you'll see the grey checkerboard pattern that gimp
uses to indicate "transparent".

Now you need to copy the remaining image.  But Copy only copies one
layer at a time.  You could select a layer, copy it, paste it, select
the next layer, copy it, and so forth; but it would be tedious,
and you might have trouble getting all the layers lined up.

Instead, use Edit->Copy Visible to copy all the visible layers at
once.  Now you can Paste into another image.  The logo now pastes
as a single new layer, which you can move around your image at will.

Did the logo paste at a size that surprised you?  Depending on the
size of your image, sometimes when you paste, the logo comes out
looking teeny even though it looked big when you copied it.  That's
because of zooming: if the destination photo is zoomed in or out
(perhaps displaying at 1/2 or 1/3 its real size), but the logo is
displayed at full size, then what you get when you paste may not be
what you expect.  If this happens, go back and make another logo at
a different font size.  Sometimes it takes a few tries to get the
font size to where it fits just perfectly.

LOGO-IZING EXISTING TEXT

All the Logo scripts we used from the toolbox create a brand new
image, using text you've provided.  Usually that's what you want.  But
occasionally you may find that you already have the text, perhaps
because you scanned it, or because you want to use text or some other
shape that you drew yourself with the mouse.  Nearly all the logo
scripts from the toolbox are also available as filters, in the submenu:
Script-Fu->Alpha to Logo.

Run "Alpha to Logo scripts on an image which contains your text, and
only your text.  Anything else, like a photographic background, will
be destroyed during the logo-making process.  So if you already have
text on a background, select it (if it's all one color, Select by
Color is probably the easiest way) and Edit->Paste as New to make a
new image.  Once you're done making your logo, you can paste it back
into the other image later.

MAKING DROP SHADOWS

In later lessons, we'll explore some of the techniques used in some
of these logo effects.  But for now, let's start with the simplest:
how to make a drop shadow.

You already know you can make a drop shadow using the Script-Fu menu.
But how are they made?  The technique behind making drop shadows is
very straightforward, and understanding it is the first step in
creating more advanced effects.

First, start with any image that has a layer of text, in any color
besides black (since the shadow will be black).
I'll use File->New... to create a blank image with a white
background, then I'll use the text tool to put some text on it:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson8/text.jpg

Now make a copy of the text layer: go to the Layers dialog,
right-click on the text layer, and choose "Duplicate Layer".
Your new layer will become the drop shadow, so I recommend renaming
it to something that will remind you that it's the shadow, by
doubleclicking on the layer and editing the name.  Since my primary
layer is called GimP, I called my shadow layer "GimP shadow".

The shadow layer should still be the selected layer.  If you've
selected anything else, then click on the shadow layer to make sure
it's selected.

Now make all the letters in the shadow layer black.  The fastest way
to do that is to make sure black is selected as the foreground color
in the toolbox, select the Bucket Fill tool, check "FG Color Fill" and
"Fill Whole Selection" in the tool options, turn on "Keep
Transparency", then click on a letter.

DIGRESSION: KEEP TRANSPARENCY

Keep Transparency lets you color on the layer without drawing outside
the lines, so to speak.  The easiest way to see what it can do is to
toggle it on for the layer you're looking at, choose a different
foreground color, choose a drawing tool such as the Pencil, then
scribble over the layer.  Notice that gimp only draws where there's
already something in the image; it doesn't draw over the transparent
parts.  For partially transparent areas, it draws on them but keeps
them partially transparent.

In Gimp 1, Keep Transparency is clearly labelled in the Layers dialog;
but in Gimp 2, it's a tiny checkbox to the right of the Mode dropdown
(we'll talk about Mode in a later lesson) with a little checkerboard
icon next to it.  To see the words "Keep Transparency" you have to
hover the mouse over the checkbox and wait for the tooltip to pop up.

Keep Transparency is useful, but it's also sometimes a problem,
because it has a bad habit of getting flipped on when you don't want
it.  Then, when you try to draw on an image, nothing draws, and it's
not obvious why.  When that happens to me, "Keep Transparency" on the
currently selected layer is one of the first things I check.

DROP SHADOWS, continued

Now you have a black text layer, which is temporarily hiding the
colored text layer underneath.  Don't worry, your colored text is
still there (if you want to verify that, click off the layer
visibility for the shadow layer, to see the colored layer below.
Then turn visibility back on for the shadow.)
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson8/text-sharpshadow.jpg

We're going to blur the shadow layer, so that means we need Keep
Transparency off.  Why?  Because the shadow becomes bigger when you
blur it; but gimp won't be able to draw any of the new parts with Keep
Transparency on, because it would have to draw over formerly
transparent areas.  So make sure the Keep Trans box is unchecked.

Now do the blur: Filters->Blur->Gaussian Blur (either variety).  How
much blur you want depends on how sharp you want the shadow to look.
Less blur will make it look like your text is floating just barely
above the page; more blur will make it look like it's floating higher.
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson8/text-blur.jpg

Now offset the shadow: switch to the Move tool in the toolbox (the one
with two crossed arrows), and drag the shadow diagonally a little.  I
usually drag down and to the right, but it depends on where you want
the light to appear to be coming from.  If this is on an image that
already has shadows, you might want the text shadow to go in the same
direction.

Drag just a little, so you can see a small bit of your original
colored text peeking out from behind the shadow, like this:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson8/text-bluroffset.jpg

Finally, it's time to move the shadow layer below the text layer.
Go to the Layers dialog, where the shadow layer should still be
selected, and click the downarrow button to move that layer down
in the stack.

Voila!  A drop shadow.  You can continue to fiddle with the spacing
between the text layer and the shadow layer, using the Move tool to
click on the shadow area and move that layer around underneath the
text layer.  With the Move tool, if "Pick a layer" is selected in tool
options, you have to be careful to click on the shadow and not on the
text above it; or (in gimp 2) choose "Move the current layer" in tool
options, in which case it will always move whatever layer you have
selected in the Layers dialog, regardless of where you click.

http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson8/text-dropshadow.jpg

COLORING TEXT USING "KEEP TRANSPARENT"

One last note in case you find your solid-colored text too boring.
You can use that "Keep Transparent" button to make it easy to
color your text in unusual ways.  For instance, if I use the
paintbrush tool, select the text layer, and turn on "Keep Trans.",
I can scribble with a different color:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson8/text-fuzzylines.jpg
or I can use the bucket fill tool to fill it with a pattern:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson8/text-patternfill.jpg
or I can select the gradient tool from the toolbox, then drag from
the bottom of the letters to the top to fill with a gradient:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson8/text-gradient.jpg
or drag horizontally to make the gradient go in another direction:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson8/text-hgradient.jpg

Homework: Make some nifty looking text.  Paste it onto another image.

Next lesson: Layer Effects, including some more cool text tricks.

From kproot@nerim.net  Sat Mar 19 23:02:23 2005
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Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2005 13:04:35 +0100
From: Karine Proot <kproot@nerim.net>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] All the logo scripts from Lesson 8
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On Fri, 18 Mar 2005 16:55:07 -0800
Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com> wrote:
> Unfortunately, there's no preview.  So your best bet is to browse
> through the list, trying anything that looks like it might be useful.
> 
> There are lots of logo styles, and most of them have quite a few
> options, so this will probably keep you busy for a while.  It's a
> lot of fun seeing what's available.  Unfortunately, I don't know of
> anywhere where all the available logos are shown together on one page,
> so you can quickly decide which logo script is the one you want for
> any particular project.  If you decide to make one, please share it!

Even before reading that, I had decided I wanted to try them all, and when I saw the nice outputs I thought about putting them all on a page. Here they are !

http://edhel.nerim.net/soeurs/article.php3?id_article=22

(You'd better scroll the page to the right. The default design of my weblog is impossible... but Gimp lessons take all my time and I'll fix that later :))

Each one has been left with its default options, so that means you can change the text of course, but also often the colors, textures, 3D depth, ...

Karine

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Sun Mar 20 11:21:32 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] All the logo scripts from Lesson 8
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Karine Proot writes:
> Even before reading that, I had decided I wanted to try them all,
> and when I saw the nice outputs I thought about putting them all
> on a page. Here they are !
> 
> http://edhel.nerim.net/soeurs/article.php3?id_article=22

Cool!  Thanks for doing that -- that's very useful, and I know
I'll be referring to it when I need to choose a logo style.

        ...Akkana

From kproot@nerim.net  Sun Mar 20 21:07:25 2005
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Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2005 11:09:50 +0100
From: Karine Proot <kproot@nerim.net>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 8: Text Effects (How to get really cool
        looking text)
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And here is my homework, along with the french translation :

http://edhel.nerim.net/soeurs/article.php3?id_article=23

The part where you hand-write some poor text with the brush and apply one of the logo scripts to it really amazed me :) I'ts funny to see such a beautiful effect on such a pitiful raw material, I really like how it turns out.

Karine

From lawgon@thenilgiris.com  Mon Mar 21 22:02:59 2005
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On Saturday 19 Mar 2005 6:25 am, Akkana Peck wrote:
> Up to now, we've created text using the text tool.
> But GIMP can create much more interesting text than that.
>

dont know if i missed something somewhere, but how do you draw a=20
straight line in the gimp?
=2D-=20
regards
kg

http://www.livejournal.com/users/lawgon
tally ho! http://avsap.sourceforge.net
=E0=B2=87=E0=B2=82=E0=B2=A1=E0=B3=8D=E0=B2=B2=E0=B2=BF=E0=B2=A8=E0=B2=95=E0=
=B3=8D=E0=B2=B8 =E0=AE=B5=E0=AE=BE=E0=AE=B4=E0=AF=8D=E0=AE=95!

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Tue Mar 22 00:55:46 2005
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On Monday 21 March 2005 06:04 am, Kenneth Gonsalves wrote:
> On Saturday 19 Mar 2005 6:25 am, Akkana Peck wrote:
> > Up to now, we've created text using the text tool.
> > But GIMP can create much more interesting text than that.
>
> dont know if i missed something somewhere, but how do you draw a
> straight line in the gimp?


I know!  I know!
click where you want the line to start, then hold down your shift key while 
you click where you want it to end.  :)

Julie
-- 

From patpeck@znet.com  Tue Mar 22 10:39:55 2005
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Here's my homework for lesson 8.  It's pretty bare bones.  If I really 
wanted a good image here, I'd spend hours trying to get rid of the 
shopping cart in the background, and clearly I need to do more research 
on cool fonts.  But at least I got text logo-ized ("Frosty") and got it 
into the image.  Akkana, do I pass?  :-)


http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/Lesson8.jpg



-- 

        ...Pat

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Patricia Peck writes:
> on cool fonts.  But at least I got text logo-ized ("Frosty") and got it 
> into the image.  Akkana, do I pass?  :-)
> 
> http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/Lesson8.jpg

Cute!

Of course you pass!  Everybody who turns in homework gets an A. :-)

        ...Akkana

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Akkana Peck wrote:
> Of course you pass!  Everybody who turns in homework gets an A. :-)


Whew!  Teach, I like the way you grade.  :-)


-- 

        ...Pat

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Okay, I'm feeling a little stupid, but I have no shame, so I'm posting 
this for anyone else lurking out there who may be feeling stupid also. 
I did my homework for Lesson 8, but I did it by creating new text 
because I couldn't see where to change the text in the logo.  Or, for 
that matter, where to change the colors.

So Akkana kindly gave me some help, and Lo!  It's right there in the 
little box you get when you first select a logo.  Duh!  I really must 
learn to read all those little boxes before trying more exotic stuff.

Anyway, here's the same homework, done by changing the logo, not doing 
new text and logo-izing it with Frosty:

http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/Lesson8No2.jpg

And here's the same thing using a different logo (Starburst) and 
changing the color:

http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/Lesson8No3.jpg


-- 

        ...Pat

From shirrell@pstat.com  Sat Mar 26 04:24:37 2005
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I am not doing a good job on my homework but I am using what I have
learned.  Bezier curves are the "cat's meow".  I have put a pdf file on
our web site produced from FrameMaker on a Sun using the jpg files
created in Gimp.  Need some better pictures and some design changes.
This is a work in progress

http://www.pstat.com/Annex04.pg1.pdf

Shirrell


From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Tue Mar 29 16:43:19 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 8: Text Effects (How to get really cool
        looking text)
Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 01:44:40 -0500
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On Friday 18 March 2005 07:55 pm, Akkana Peck wrote:
> Up to now, we've created text using the text tool.
> But GIMP can create much more interesting text than that.
>
> LOGO SCRIPTS

I added text to a photo here:

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/sapphie.jpg

> LOGO-IZING EXISTING TEXT

For some reason this lesson was really hard for me.   I think my main 
problem is forgetting I have layers toggled on or off.  Frustrating  :)

> MAKING DROP SHADOWS

> Now make all the letters in the shadow layer black.  The fastest way
> to do that is to make sure black is selected as the foreground color
> in the toolbox, select the Bucket Fill tool, check "FG Color Fill" and
> "Fill Whole Selection" in the tool options, turn on "Keep
> Transparency", then click on a letter.

In Gimp 1 instead of "Fill Whole Selection" I think you need to use 
Select>All or Ctrl-A from the main menu.

I used text from my husband's website, which I need to fancy up anyway  :)

> Voila!  A drop shadow.  

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/logo1b.jpg
 
> COLORING TEXT USING "KEEP TRANSPARENT"
>
> One last note in case you find your solid-colored text too boring.
> You can use that "Keep Transparent" button to make it easy to
> color your text in unusual ways. 

Way cool  :) 

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/logo1c.jpg

-- 

...the continuing popularity of micro$oft window$ only proves that ten 
million monkeys really *do* sit down at ten million keyboards...

From patpeck@znet.com  Wed Mar 30 08:04:15 2005
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Finally got to the last part of Lesson 8, the drop shadows and the 
colors.  There are sure possibilities for cool-looking stuff here!  I 
didn't paste these onto an image, just did the lesson, and not very 
artistically at that, but may as well post them anyway for the record.


http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/gimpshadow8.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/gimpcolor8.jpg


-- 

        ...Pat

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Sat Apr 23 21:05:22 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
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Subject: re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 8: Text Effects (How to get really cool
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Okay! :)

I took an old photo -of my first winter here- and added some text.  The text 
is in two layers, each using a different gradient.  I think I need to 
practice this lesson more because there are soooo many things you can do 
with text and I feel like I have barely scraped the surface.

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/sn09.jpg

Julie
-- 

From cabucholtz@yahoo.com.au  Sun Mar 20 15:30:33 2005
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Hello,

I've done my homework, more birds.  I'm not entirely happy with the
result but I've learnt far more about gimp than the results indicate,
it looks like I should've finished this in a few minutes, but I've
spent most of the day on this, including taking the photo ! =20


http://au.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/cabucholtz/detail?.dir=3D/da37&.dnm=3Def=
bc.jpg&.src=3Dph&.tok=3DphbB6sCBp_u3ZySB

Cheers,
Carolyn

Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
http://au.movies.yahoo.com

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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses] Re: Lesson 8: Text Effects (How to get really cool
        looking text)
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On Saturday 19 March 2005 11:30 pm, Carolyn Bucholtz wrote:

> it looks like I should've finished this in a few minutes

Not hardly!!  That is simply awesome.  That's a *photo*???  You've made it 
look like an oil painting  :)

Julie

>
> http://au.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/cabucholtz/detail?.dir=/da37&.dnm=efbc.j
>pg&.src=ph&.tok=phbB6sCBp_u3ZySB
>
> Cheers,
> Carolyn

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Nothing fancy but I used this weeks lesson to replace
a plain text logo with a new graphical representation.

http://womensfooty.com

--=20
Kathryn
http://womensfooty.com


From cabucholtz@yahoo.com.au  Mon Mar 21 07:26:32 2005
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Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2005 07:26:15 +1100 (EST)
From: Carolyn Bucholtz <cabucholtz@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Courses] Re: Lesson 8: Text Effects (How to get really cool
        looking text)
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> > it looks like I should've finished this in a few minutes
> Not hardly!!=20

Thank you for your kind words.  I really love the clone tool - I took
the photo early in the morning so its a bit dark, but it didn't hide
the clothes line, and bits of a boat and caravan that were behind the
birds !!

95% of the time I use linux that's on a very old laptop, not much
memory or processing power, so yesterday frustrated by slow response
I used gimp on a windows machine.  I strongly advise backing up as
you go !.  I'd finished all the cloning bits and decided to save the
work before I tackled the text bit. 5 minutes later without warning
gimp crashed with a message saying all work would be lost.  Later on
I had to stop the gimp process because it froze, couldn't do
anything.  I don't know whether these things happen with the linux
version, it hasn't so far, but better not to risk it.

Today I'm going to play with the second part of the lesson, try some
of those  text effects, drop shadow etc, looks like good fun - on my
linux machine !!

Cheers,
Carolyn

Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
http://au.movies.yahoo.com

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Sat Mar 26 15:44:00 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 9: Layer Effects, including more text tricks
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By now, you should be getting comfortable using a few layers, maybe
even more than a few, to draw or paste parts of one image on top of
another.  But gimp offers other interesting ways to combine layers.

LAYER MASKS

A Layer Mask is a way of making a layer transparent in some places
and opaque in others.  It's sort of like the opacity slider in the
Layers dialog, but it's more powerful.

A layer mask is a black-and-white image which is aligned with the
layer it masks.  Here's how it works: everywhere the layer mask is
white, that layer is opaque.  Where the mask is black, the layer is
transparent.  Where the mask is grey, the image is translucent: the
darker grey the mask is, the more transparent the layer is.  You can
draw on a layer mask with any gimp drawing tool.  The catch is, you
can't really see what you're drawing: you can only see its effect on
the layer, and the tiny copy of the mask in the Layers dialog.

Confused?  Let's do an example to make it clearer.

Let's say I have a photo of my car:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/fiat.jpg
and I put a label on it, using the text tool:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/fiat-labelled.jpg
That text is kind of intrusive, though.  What if I made it sort of
fade into the background as it gets closer to the car?

The first step is to create a layer mask: I go to the Layers dialog,
right-click on the text layer, and select "Add Layer Mask..."
A dialog comes up, but the defaults, of "White (full opacity)"
is almost always the right thing to choose.  This means that the layer
mask will be white everywhere, so the layer will initially be visible
everywhere.

In the Layers dialog, now a new box appears to the right of the box
for the text layer, showing a miniature preview of what the layer mask
looks like (a white rectangle).  The box is also surrounded with a
white border, which means that the layer mask is selected: if
you draw on the image right now, you'll be drawing into the layer
mask, not into the layer.

If you ever want to see what a layer mask looks like in full size, in
gimp 2, go to the Layers dialog, right-click on the layer and choose
Show Layer Mask.  I don't know of any way to do this in gimp 1.
Try it now (notice that the white border on the mask box in the
Layers dialog turns a different color), then choose the same menu
item again to go back to viewing the text layer normally.

Now it's time to draw on the layer mask.  I'll use the gradient tool,
to make a fade that goes from white (fully visible) at the top of the
layer to black (transparent) on the bottom).

I select the gradient tool in the toolbox: it looks like a horizontal
fade from black to white (maybe with another color in between,
depending on gimp version).  There are tons of tool options: for
now, I want all the defaults: Mode Normal, Shape Linear.

The normal way to use the gradient tool is to mouse down at one end
of the layer, then drag to the other end.  I want to fade from the
foreground color (black) at the bottom to the background color (white)
at the top, so I'm going to click at the bottom of the text layer,
then drag straight up.  When I let go, the layer mask is filled with a
gradient, where the gradient is darker, toward the bottom of the text,
the text will be more transparent.  Like this:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/fiat-gradient.jpg

If I "View Layer Mask", this is what I see:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/fiat-gradientmask.jpg
while my layers dialog shows a small preview of the mask:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/fiat-layersdialog.jpg

It's sometimes confusing to have a layer mask selected.  When you're
done drawing on your layer mask, try to remember to click on the layer
preview next to the layer mask, so that the mask isn't selected any
more.  Otherwise, gimp will give you weird complaints when you try to
save as jpg, and you'll get confused (at least, I do) when you try to
do anything with that layer.  If you ever try to draw on a layer and
nothing appears, one thing to check is whether you have a layer mask
selected, instead of the layer itself.

You can use a layer mask for more than just gradients.  Since it's
actually an image, and you can draw on it just like an image, you
can use all the normal drawing tools: you can draw on the mask with
the pencil tool to make only parts of the image transparent, or
you can use the ellipse select tool and bucket fill to make an
oval area disappear.  You can even use a layer mask instead of
the selection tools we used in lesson 7: if you draw white on the
layer mask everywhere outside your chosen object, then you end up
with a transparent layer with just the object in it, and you can
put other backgrounds underneath.  Newsforge had an article
mentioning that technique just recently:
http://software.newsforge.com/article.pl?sid=05/02/16/1427218&tid=130&tid=75&tid=93

BUMP MAP

Bump Map is a built-in gimp filter which uses one layer to generate
a 3-dimensional lighting effect on another layer.  It comes in handy
for all sorts of projects, but especially for making text.

I'll start by making a new image, and using the Bucket Fill tool to
fill it with a pattern.  Then I'll put a layer of white text on top of
it: http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/bumpmaptxt.jpg

Now I'm going to use the white text as a bump map for the woodgrain
pattern.  I select the woodgrain background layer in the Layers
dialog, then go to Filters->Map->Bump Map...

The Bump Map dialog comes up (in Gimp 2.2, it includes a preview).
The dropdown at the top lets you choose which layer will create the
shape of the bump.  It can even be a layer in a different image, as
long as that image is already loaded in your current gimp session.

You can adjust lots of different parameters, such as where the light
source appears to be coming from (that's Azimuth), how high the bump
will be, and how wide it will seem to be.

Play around with the parameters, and try it.  The background layer
will change to include the "bump" generated from the text layer.
The text layer is still visible: you may want to toggle it off
so that you only see the bump map.

Here's an example:
it: http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/bumpmap.jpg

If you want a smoother bump, use gaussian blur to blur the edges of
the text layer before running the bump map.  Like so:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/bumpmapblur.jpg

You can run bump map on colors other than white, but usually it works
best on white.  Experiment with it to get just the effect you want.

LAYER MODES

You may have noticed the Mode dropdown in the Layers dialog, 
and wondered what that was.

Layer Modes control how a layer is combined with the ones below it
to produce the total image you see.  Normally (in "Normal" mode),
you see all of the layer on top; if there's anything still
transparent, then you see pieces of the next layer down; if there's
still anything transparent, you see the the next layer, and so on.

But gimp can combine layers in ways more complicated than that.
For instance, for each point in the image, it might show you the
top layer minus the second layer, divided by the third layer.

Why would you ever want to do that?  It turns out there are some
interesting effects you can do by combining layers in odd ways.

Let's say I start with a white background layer; then, starting with a
new transparent layer, I use the pencil tool to write some blue text:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/gimptxt.jpg
Then I make a drop shadow, then blur the original layer:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/gimptxtblur.jpg

By playing with layer modes, I can change this in interesting ways.
For example, with the blue layer selected, if I change the mode to
Divide, the color changes and I get this odd effect, somewhat 3-d effect:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/gimptxtdivide.jpg
Screen mode gives me a different 3-d effect:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/gimptxtscreen.jpg
Difference:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/gimptxtdifference.jpg
Addition:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/gimptxtaddition.jpg

Now for some even weirder effects: I'll turn the Background a medium
grey (using Levels or Bucket Fill), then try some different modes on
the blue blurred text layer:
Divide:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/gimptxtgreydiv.jpg
Dodge:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/gimptxtgreydodge.jpg
Addition:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/gimptxtgreyadd.jpg
Difference:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/gimptxtgreydiff.jpg

If you wanted to use the result of one of these, you could use "Select
by Color" to select out the grey background, and Edit->Clear it to
leave you with just the text.  Here's the Addition one:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/justgimptxtadd.jpg

Don't worry if you don't understand exactly what each mode does.  Most
people don't.  The important thing is to know that Modes exist, and
that you can use them to combine layers in interesting ways.  This
means that (a) you can play around with trying different layer modes
to see what they do, and (b) you can follow tutorials on using layer
modes, such as these two:
http://at8.abo.fi/~mwikholm/com/gimp/tutor/glass
http://gug.sunsite.dk/tutorials/tomcat1/?PHPSESSID=cbe351c9a3609daeff9af437600297ea

Here's a discussion of what some of the layer modes do mathematically,
for those so inclined: http://www.pegtop.net/delphi/blendmodes/
It's oriented toward Photoshop, not Gimp, but as a Gimp user you can
very often follow Photoshop tutorials -- the two apps have many of
the same capabilities.

Homework: Use any combination of Layer Masks, Bump Map, and Layer
Modes to create something interesting from an image composed of
several layers.  Doesn't have to be text: you might be surprised
what you can do starting with just a mouse scribble.

Next Lesson: Stitching Panoramas from Multiple Images.

From kproot@nerim.net  Sat Mar 26 19:53:00 2005
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Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2005 09:55:16 +0100
From: Karine Proot <kproot@nerim.net>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 9: Layer Effects, including more text
        tricks
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For that one, I couldn't resist and decided my poor fonts were not enough anymore. And as you said Akkana, I spent almost 2 hours looking in wonder at all these free fonts, wanting to try them all (hopefully after 30 or so I decided I should better try to find a font that would fit my image... but seeing so many, I became exacting and it took much time anyway!)

So here is my homework, in french as usual :

http://edhel.nerim.net/soeurs/article.php3?id_article=27

I copied a lot of Akkana's idea (the car photo made me think about my sister's car, then I tried a lot of textures for the bump map effect but wood is really the best...)

Karine

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Sat Apr 23 21:05:22 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re:  [Courses][gimp] Lesson 9: Layer Effects,
        including more text tricks
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fun - - especially once I learned how to draw on the layer mask  ;-)

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/mow2.jpg

modes - wow!=20
using blue-green gradient with "difference" mode:

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/mow3.jpg

> Now I'm going to use the white text as a bump map for the woodgrain
> pattern. =A0I select the woodgrain background layer in the Layers
> dialog, then go to Filters->Map->Bump Map...

In the patterns dialogue? =A0I'm still using Gimp =A01.2.5 =A0so you may ha=
ve=20
something I don't =A0 :)

> The Bump Map dialog comes up (in Gimp 2.2, it includes a preview).

In Gimp 1.2.5 also preview.

> Play around with the parameters, and try it. =A0The background layer
> will change to include the "bump" generated from the text layer.
> The text layer is still visible: you may want to toggle it off
> so that you only see the bump map.

I'm not managing to do this. =A0I can make the text "bump" but when I toggl=
e=20
it off it's gone.

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/cousins.jpg

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/cousins.xcf  (warning - nearly 1Mb)

Julie

=2D- =20

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Sun Apr 24 10:34:25 2005
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Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2005 17:34:11 -0700
From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 9: Layer Effects,
        including more text tricks
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Julie Sloan writes:
> fun - - especially once I learned how to draw on the layer mask  ;-)
>=20
> http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/mow2.jpg

Neat!

> > Now I'm going to use the white text as a bump map for the woodgrain
> > pattern. =A0I select the woodgrain background layer in the Layers
> > dialog, then go to Filters->Map->Bump Map...
>=20
> In the patterns dialogue? =A0I'm still using Gimp =A01.2.5 =A0so you ma=
y have=20
> something I don't =A0 :)

No, just in the Filters right-click menu of the image.
It's there in 1.2 too.

> > The Bump Map dialog comes up (in Gimp 2.2, it includes a preview).
>=20
> In Gimp 1.2.5 also preview.

Yes, so it does!  Good, that makes it much easier to decide on the
right settings.

>=20
> > Play around with the parameters, and try it. =A0The background layer
> > will change to include the "bump" generated from the text layer.
> > The text layer is still visible: you may want to toggle it off
> > so that you only see the bump map.
>=20
> I'm not managing to do this. =A0I can make the text "bump" but when I t=
oggle=20
> it off it's gone.

In the example in the lesson, I started with two layers, the
background layer (filled with a pattern) and the text layer (just
white text).  I made the background layer the active layer, then
called up Bump Map.

In the Bump Map dialog, I made sure the text layer was the one
selected as the bump map; fiddled with the settings as needed, then
pressed OK.

Bump Map bumps the background layer, but if the white text layer was
visible before, then I still see the white text layer covering up
most of the bumped background.  But if I toggle off visibility of
the white text layer (leaving the background layer visible), then
I can see the raised text without any white getting in the way.
(The white text layer was used as the bump map but the layer isn't
itself directly visible in the final image.)

> http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/cousins.jpg
> http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/cousins.xcf  (warning - nearly 1Mb)

Did you start with a colored text layer, or with text that came from
one of the logo scripts?  It looks like your text layer is already
bumped (and perhaps has other effects on it), and separated from
the background.

If I use your text layer as the bump map, though, and the pretty
gradient as the background, what I get initially (with the text
layer still visible) looks pretty much like nothing happened.
But if I turn off visibility on the text layer, so the text is no
longer covering the bump, now it looks different:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson9/cousins-bumped.jpg

        ...Akkana

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Sun Apr  3 03:06:46 2005
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Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2005 09:06:24 -0800
From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Subject: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 10: Stitching Panoramic Images
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Sometimes a camera lens just isn't wide enough to show what there
is to see.  You stare at a wide, sweeping vista, but when you look in
the camera's viewfinder, it only shows a tiny piece of the view you
see with your eyes.

In this lesson, I'll show you how to shoot multiple photos, then
use GIMP to stitch them into a panorama.

SHOOT THE IMAGES

Shooting panoramas means taking a lot of side by side shots that
overlap.  Start at one end -- I usually start at the far left -- and
shoot a picture, then rotate the camera a little to the right (not
very much: each image has to overlap with the previous one), shoot
another image, and so on.

The process of combining them into one wide panoramic image is
usually called "stitching", and you can make the job easier if
you keep in mind a few tricks when you're shooting the images:

- Overlap a lot: take lots of images.  Overlap helps because all
  camera lenses have some "warp" at the edges, and trying to overlap
  two edges that are warped in opposite ways can be challenging.
  Lots of overlap also means that you'll have more images than you
  really need, so if some turn out to be not as good, you can discard
  them without hurting the final image.

  Overlap at least 1/3 of the frame with the next frame (e.g. the
  right 1/3 of image 1 is the same as the left 1/3 of image 2), but
  more   is better.  I usually overlap at least 50%.

- Keep the camera level.  If you have a tripod or a rock or fence to
  set the   camera on, it will make it easier to make the panorama later.
  If not, just try hard to keep the horizon level in the viewfinder.
  GIMP can rotate images after the fact, but that makes things harder.

- Try to keep the exposures the same.  If you're shooting a pan that
  starts in dim light and ends in bright, it sometimes helps to meter
  off a spot somewhere near the center.  With most cameras, you can
  point at the spot in the center, press the shutter button halfway
  down (a light comes on to say the camera is ready), then move the
  camera back to wherever you're shooting your image.

- Zoom in a little.  You'll have to use more images to cover your
  scene, but there's a lot less lens warp when you're zoomed in, so
  it's actually easier to stitch a panorama that was shot that way.

Of course, none of these are absolute rules.  If you want to see the
difference, try shooting several sequences, and see what you prefer.
Most of you are probably using digital cameras, so shooting more
images costs nothing extra.

MAKE A CANVAS

Once you get your images uploaded, start gimp and create a new, blank
image (either a white or transparent background is fine) big enough to
hold the final panorama.

How big is that?  Well, first decide what resolution you'll be using.
You may or may not want to use the full resolution of your camera.
Panoramas are really big, and since GIMP has to keep all the images
loaded, plus a bunch of other information, a big panorama can really
eat up memory and make the system slow.  If you have a lot of memory,
or you really need that resolution because you're going to print the
resulting panorama at a large size, then go for it.  If you don't have
much memory and your goal is something to stick on the web, you might
want to scale down.  For this lesson, I'll be using five images of size
609 x 457, but I'd normally work at one and a half to double that.
My original images:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson10/pict0280.jpg
and 81, 82, 83, 84 ... 5 images total.

Once you know your images' width, you can make an estimate of the final
canvas size.  The final width will be no greater than the sum of all
the image widths, in other words, imagewidth * number_of_images.
(For this course, I'm assuming you're making a horizontal panorama.
If yours is vertical, then swap width and height.)

In reality, though, if you overlapped at 60% of the image width, then
the final width is actually imagewidth * number_of_images * .6 plus
some slop in case you really overlapped by less than you thought.

The final height will be roughly the same as one image's height,
but allow a little slop there, too, since you may have shot some
images higher than others.  (If you used a tripod, you won't need
much slop here.)

I'm going to make a panorama out of these photos:
(why the odd numbers?  I don't remember. :-)
If I leave room for a 30% overlap (though I think I was closer to
half, assuming 30% will make the canvas wider so I'll be sure I won't
run out of room), the width comes out to 609 * .7 * 5.
That comes out 2131.5, but I'll be even more conservative and round
up to 2150 (I'll crop it later).  I'll use 500 for the height.

Once you know your canvas size, use File->New... to create a new image.
You're ready to start loading in your images.

LOAD THE IMAGES

Start with the leftmost image, and open it as a layer in your new
image.  Gimp 2 has File->Open As Layer.  In gimp 1, just open each
image, Copy, then Paste into the panorama image.  Remember to click the
New Layer button in the Layers dialog to make it a real layer, not
floating.  Use the move tool to move it all the way over to the left,
and roughly centered vertically.

Next, open the second image as a new layer, the same way you opened
the first; but this time, use the move tool to drag it to the right
so that it's approximately where it lines up with the first image.
Don't worry about getting it exactly lined up just yet.  Go ahead and
open all the images as new layers, and drag each one to roughly the
right position.

Once you have all the images loaded, in the right order and at
approximately the right places, it's a good time to save the image as
an xcf.  This will preserve all the layers, and the other effects
you'll add soon.

Here's a screenshot of my layers lined up:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson10/layersloaded.jpg
(Obviously I overlapped a lot more than 30%!  My canvas is way bigger
than it needs to be.  But too big is okay.  I'll crop it later.)

LINE 'EM UP

Now comes the hard part: lining up all the images accurately.

Start with the first and second images.  Toggle visibility off for
all the other layers in the Layers dialog, so they don't distract,
 and zoom in quite a bit: you need to be able to see details.

Now we use a trick.  In the Layers dialog, there's a slider marked
Opacity.  Select the second layer (if gimp gave you a Background
layer on your new image, ignore it; "second layer" means the layer
for the second image in the panorama) and slide the Opacity slider
to about 50%.  The image should go translucent: although the second
image is on top of the first image, you can see the first through the
second where they overlap.

Now that you can see both at once, use the Move tool to move the
second layer around until it lines up as well as you can manage.
The two layers will not fit perfectly everywhere: even if you kept the
camera perfectly level, lens warp will make the images different at
the edges.  Try to make them fit each other pretty well around the
middle of the overlapping area.  Don't worry too much about the edges
right now.

When you get really close, you'll probably see it seem to "snap" into
focus, as ghostly double images become sharp.  When you get close,
sometimes it helps to put the mouse aside and use the keyboard: when
the move tool is selected and a layer is active, you can use the arrow
keys to move the layer around by one pixel at a time.

You may find at this point that one image is tilted relative to the
other one.  GIMP's rotate tool can fix that: rotate just the layer
that needs it, usually by only a few degrees.  The preview in the
rotate tool unfortunately doesn't handle transparency (and earlier
versions of gimp don't have a rotate preview at all), so you'll
probably have to rotate and undo several times before you get close.
Fixing rotations are the hardest and most frustrating part of
panoramas.  For your first panorama, don't panic if the images are a
bit tilted with respect to one another.  Try the rotate tool if you
want, but if it's too frustrating, just leave it.  We may be able to
compensate for it later.

Once you're reasonably happy with the alignment of the first two
layers, slide layer 2's opacity back to 100%, toggle layer 3's
visibility on, select it, slide its opacity to 50%, and line it up
with  layer 2 the same way you did before.  If you have more layers,
repeat until they're all lined up.

http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson10/linedup.jpg
You can see that in my supposedly "lined up" panorama, all kinds
of things don't fit.  You may also notice that the last two images
had to be rotated, because they were so far off.  I really did a
bad job of shooting this panorama.  Good thing I have gimp!

USE LAYER MASKS

To fix those non-fitting edges, Layer Masks, from Lesson 9, are just
the ticket.

We're going to use the layer mask to make layer 2 fade to transparent
near its left edge, where it overlaps with layer 1.  Toggle
visibility off on all the other layers, so it's easier to see
what you're doing.  Then select the gradient tool in the toolbox.

We'll draw a gradient on the layer mask, just like we did in Lesson
9.  Click on the edge of the second layer, and drag right to
approximately where you think the images might line up a little
better.  If you got really good alignment, then just drag in a little.
My images don't match very well, so I'm dragging in a lot.
Screenshot: http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson10/gradient.jpg

At this point, that dotted yellow line at the layer boundary might be
getting in the way.  You can temporarily turn it off: View->Show Layer
Boundary.  (In gimp 1, use View->Toggle Selection.)  Like Show
Selection, this is confusing if you leave it off: you won't be able to
see which layer is selected.  So remember to turn it back on again.

It's also confusing to have a layer mask selected.  When you're done
setting up your gradient, click on the layer preview next to the layer
mask, so that the mask isn't selected any more.  Otherwise, gimp will
give you weird complaints when you try to save as jpg, and you'll get
confused (at least, I do) when you try to do anything with that layer.

Here's my layers dialog now:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson10/layersdialog.jpg
Notice that the layer is selected, not the layer mask; and notice
that the layer mask preview is a little fuzzy on the left side,
where it fades to black.

With the first layer mask finished, my first two images look like this:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson10/onelayermasked.jpg
Compare that to what they looked like before (in the gradient screen
shot).  Quite a difference!

Now toggle the next layer visible again, add a mask, and draw a
gradient.  Repeat until you've added a mask for every layer but the
first one.  Here's what my image looks like now:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson10/alllayersmasked.jpg

TURN OFF BAD IMAGES

We're almost done.  You have a pretty decent panorama at this point.
But there may still be a few areas that bug you.

Sometimes, at this point, I discover that one of my images just isn't
as good as the rest.  Maybe it's not focused well, or too dark, or too
rotated.  Sometimes just toggling off one layer makes the image look a
lot better.  Don't feel like you have to use every image: that's one
reason to use a lot of overlap when you shoot, so you can throw away
bad images.  In my case, I found that turning layer 4 off improved the
image.  I didn't delete that layer: it's still stored in the .xcf
(don't forget to save the xcf file frequently, so you don't lose any
of your hard work) in case I change my mind later, but visibility is
turned off.  It takes up extra space (xcf files of panoramas with
lots of images can be quite large) but it's worth it.

PAINT OUT BAD AREAS

But even if you turn off some images, you may still have areas that
just aren't quite right.  In my image, there's some confusion where
the drainage comes in from the lower left, where I can see two pieces
overlapping.  Also, I don't have a sharp edge on the right side of the
center canyon right near the middle of the image.  Sometimes you can
keep making bigger or smaller gradients until you get it right, or
angle the gradients (they don't have to be exactly horizontal); but if
that doesn't work, there's a better way.

Remember that a layer mask is just a white image that you can draw on
in black.  Anywhere you draw black, the upper image will become
transparent: effectively, it will be erased and the lower image will
take precedence.

So make sure your foreground color is black, and choose a drawing tool
(I'll use paintbrush) and a large fuzzy brush.  Then figure out which
layer is the one with the offending areas you want to make transparent.
Click on that layer mask in the Layers dialog to select it. Then paint!

After painting out those bad areas, here's my final panorama:
http://shallowsky.com/images/gimpcourse/lesson10/alllayersmasked.jpg

SHAMELESS PLUG

If you make a lot of panoramas and get tired of the "calculate canvas
size and create layer masks" steps, you can use my gimp plug-in,
"Pandora", to automate those parts.  It's at
http://shallowsky.com/software/pandora/

HOMEWORK: If you have an appropriate set of images, or can make one,
stitch a panorama. Just a little one, two images, is fine.

If you don't have any suitable panoramic material handy, you can
do an alternate project instead: put two images together, and make
one image fade into the other using a layer mask.

NEXT LESSON: The panorama lesson is somewhat long and tricky,
plus I posted it a day late (I've been travelling, and haven't had
connectivity for the lasat few days ... I shot lots of panoramas,
though, so now I have a lot of stitching work ahead of me!).
So I'm going to allow two weeks for this lesson's homework, and won't
post a regular lesson next week.  Instead, I'll post some sources of
gimp information, tips, and tutorials, and I'll talk briefly about
GIMP plugins and scripts: where to get them and how to build them.

From cabucholtz@yahoo.com.au  Mon Apr  4 11:34:31 2005
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Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 11:34:23 +1000 (EST)
From: Carolyn Bucholtz <cabucholtz@yahoo.com.au>
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 10: Stitching Panoramic Images
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I have a friend that lives in a unit overlooking Sydney Harbour, so I
thought, great, what a panorama to stitch together, and I could even
put a title on it using a bump map from last week's lesson.  So I
asked him to take several shots for me. He sent me 6 overlapping
shots.  I've spent a couple of hours trying to get them to line up,
but I confess I've given up. I'd line up the centres ok, but there
was a bit of rotation correction to do, but it was too much and just
blurred the picture. Some shots would have needed a little zoom
either bigger or smaller to get them to line up properly also.=20
Although I haven't anything to show for this lesson, I've learnt a
lot. A tripod would make the job much easier!! I'm going on a short
holiday to a place called Port Stephens north of Sydney next month, a
good place for practising taking a series of photos for an panoramic
view, so maybe I'll have something to show at a later date.

Cheers,
Carolyn

Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
http://au.movies.yahoo.com

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Tue Apr  5 03:19:52 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 10: Stitching Panoramic Images
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Carolyn Bucholtz writes:
> but I confess I've given up. I'd line up the centres ok, but there
> was a bit of rotation correction to do, but it was too much and just
> blurred the picture. Some shots would have needed a little zoom
> either bigger or smaller to get them to line up properly also. 

Bummer!  I find that if many shots need rotation, it gets really
hard.  If some of them are zoomed, that would be much worse; you'd
probably have to use the "measure" tool (looks like a compass, the
kind for for drawing circles) to measure sizes, then calculate how
much to scale.  That would be a lot of extra work, though!

> Although I haven't anything to show for this lesson, I've learnt a
> lot. A tripod would make the job much easier!! I'm going on a short
> holiday to a place called Port Stephens north of Sydney next month, a
> good place for practising taking a series of photos for an panoramic

Definitely!  Or maybe even putting the camera on a ledge or fence.
I've been on vacation this week, and shot a lot of panoramas (which
I haven't stitched yet); in several cases there was a fence railing
handy to rest the camera on, or a rock, and I'm looking forward to
seeing how much that helps.

Don't worry about not having anything for the homework.  Panoramas
do take a lot of work, and it's so much easier if you have a good
set of images to start with.  I hope everyone tries it like you did,
just to see how the techniques work, even if you don't come up with
anything right now.  Now you'll know the tricks when you go on your
trip next month.

One other point that might be worth mentioning, for people still
thinking about subjects they might want to shoot for panoramas:
sometimes you see panoramic shots of nearby buildings, like the
inside of a cathedral, or a town square where you're surrounded by
lots of interesting buildings.  Those are quite a bit harder to do
than natural landscapes, because buildings have lots of parallel and
right-angle lines, and because of the lens warp from the camera
lens, the parallel lines don't line up properly from one shot to the
next.  (Some architectural photographers use special lenses that
eliminate the warp and make parallel lines parallel; I'm sure there
are plugins which can do this digitally as well.) Distant buildings,
like a harbor shot, usually don't have this problem because the
buildings aren't so tall; it's just when you're inside or surrounded
by tall objects with parallel lines that it's a problem.

        ...Akkana

From brat@magma.ca  Tue Apr  5 05:46:40 2005
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 10: Stitching Panoramic Images
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On Mon, Apr 04, 2005 at 10:19:25AM -0700, Akkana Peck wrote:
> 
> Definitely!  Or maybe even putting the camera on a ledge or fence.
> I've been on vacation this week, and shot a lot of panoramas (which
> I haven't stitched yet); in several cases there was a fence railing
> handy to rest the camera on, or a rock, and I'm looking forward to
> seeing how much that helps.
> 

Many tripods use 1/4" (i think) screw that seems to be a standard
among manufactures. Therefore you can take a bolt of the same 
size and epoxy it upside down to the top of a pop bottle. 

Now you can carry around the cap and wherever there is a bottle
of pop, there is now a little tripod. Handy to keep in the car 
at least.

-- 
Angelina Carlton

From patpeck@znet.com  Sat May  7 15:11:13 2005
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Just checking in here with my experience with Lesson 10.  I did the 
whole thing, step by step (with one exception, see below), and I was 
surprised that it wasn't difficult.  I had put it off because first, I 
didn't have a good panoramic subject, second, I didn't shoot what I did 
have all that well, and third, it looked hard.  But it wasn't, only I 
screwed up, so I don't have anything I want to post as yet.

Akkana clearly said to zoom in quite a bit for detail, but I sorta 
skipped that part and worked with the normal 100% size.  Wrongo!  I got 
it all done (only 3 images) and thought, gee, that was pretty easy and 
it looks good, but then, just for the heck of it, I enlarged it, and it 
didn't look so good any more.  So I'm going to do it again for the 
practice before I post anything.

Just a word to the wise...  :-)
-- 

        ...Pat

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Mon May  9 06:07:08 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 10: Stitching Panoramic Images
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On Saturday 07 May 2005 01:10 am, Patricia Peck wrote:
> Just checking in here with my experience with Lesson 10.  I did the
> whole thing, step by step (with one exception, see below), and I was
> surprised that it wasn't difficult.  I had put it off because first, I
> didn't have a good panoramic subject, second, I didn't shoot what I did
> have all that well, and third, it looked hard.  But it wasn't, only I
> screwed up, so I don't have anything I want to post as yet.
>
> Akkana clearly said to zoom in quite a bit for detail, but I sorta
> skipped that part and worked with the normal 100% size.  Wrongo!  I got
> it all done (only 3 images) and thought, gee, that was pretty easy and
> it looks good, but then, just for the heck of it, I enlarged it, and it
> didn't look so good any more.  So I'm going to do it again for the
> practice before I post anything.
>
> Just a word to the wise...  :-)

I have been putting it off too.  I'm thinking about doing it a bit 
differently - for about a week I took pictures of a tree in my yard as it 
leafed out.  Hopefully all these pictures will line up on top of each 
other.  I'm not sure what I want to do with it once I have them stacked up 
though, maybe go from side to side,  or maybe in increments from the middle 
out, or some other way.  I've been putting it off because the thought of 
lining all those layers up is really intimidating me.  Plus the pictures I 
didn't get on disk I still have to scan (I used my 35mm instead of the 
digital) and in order to use my scanner I have to pop over into that other 
0$.  Excuses, excuses.  

Julie

-- 

<)\
 (  \\
Penguin Power

From patpeck@znet.com  Mon May  9 07:22:58 2005
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Julie Sloan wrote:
>  I've been putting it off because the thought of 
> lining all those layers up is really intimidating me.  Plus the pictures I 
> didn't get on disk I still have to scan (I used my 35mm instead of the 
> digital) and in order to use my scanner I have to pop over into that other 
> 0$.  Excuses, excuses.  

Aha!  Another scaredy cat!  :-)  I was sure I wasn't the only one.  I'm 
also sure there are others out there.  And in fact, your excuses are 
pretty good.  Better than mine.  I just don't seem to get around to it, 
and then when I do, I skip that "zoom in" part that turns out to be 
pretty darned important.  Oh, well, one of these days, I'll do it again, 
I will, I will.  :-)

I like your idea of the tree leafing out.  Very intriguing!  Offhand, 
I'd think from side to side - from bare(ish) to leafy.  But inside out 
is pretty intriguing, though it might be harder to do.  Also offhand, 
and not having seen the photos, or the tree for that matter, I'd think 
matching wouldn't be so important, except to have the trunk and major 
branches in the same place in each shot.  For the leaf part, you'd have 
to sort of dissolve, wouldn't you?

And thinking of dissolving from one image to another - do we know how to 
do that?  Maybe do overlapping gradients, one coming in and one going 
out?  Hmmm... must ask Akkana if that would work, and how.

I'm really getting into this idea, but don't have a tree to use, and 
it's too late now, anyway, so it's all UP TO YOU.  But no pressure.  :-)

-- 

        ...Pat

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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 10: Stitching Panoramic Images
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Julie Sloan writes:
> I have been putting it off too.  I'm thinking about doing it a bit 
> differently - for about a week I took pictures of a tree in my yard as it 
> leafed out.  Hopefully all these pictures will line up on top of each 
> other.  I'm not sure what I want to do with it once I have them stacked up 

Oh, cool!

It might be hard to make an actual panorama out of that (well, you
could, but there won't be parts to match on one side vs. the other)
though both the ideas you talked about sound like they'd be really
interesting images to see.  I'm looking forward to seeing what
you do with the tree series!

Aut there are other things you can do with it.
For instance, you can make an animation.  To do that, you need to
make an image that has all the layers stacked in order, one on top
of the other, and lined up.  Then, if you save as GIF, there's an
option in the GIF save plugin for choosing Animated.

Of course, GIF is a lousy format for photos (it only allows 8 bits
of color per channel, so the full color won't come through) but
it's sometimes worth it for GIF animations that you can put on a web
page and show in any browser.

How do you line up the images?  Pretty much like in the panorama
lesson.  Turn off visibility on all but the first two images, make
the higher of those two images partially transparent with the
transparency slider in the layers dialog, then use the move tool to
move it around until they line up.  Then slide transparency back to
100% (opaque), make the next layer visible, make it semi-transparent,
and repeat until they're all lined up and all 100% opaque.

Patricia Peck writes:
> matching wouldn't be so important, except to have the trunk and major 
> branches in the same place in each shot.  For the leaf part, you'd have 
> to sort of dissolve, wouldn't you?
> 
> And thinking of dissolving from one image to another - do we know how to 
> do that?  Maybe do overlapping gradients, one coming in and one going 
> out?  Hmmm... must ask Akkana if that would work, and how.

A dissolve as I know the term implies something that happens over
time, so I guess you're talking about an animation?  I'm not sure if
the GIF save plugin has an option to dissolve from one image to the
next, though there are other programs to do that sort of thing.
Perhaps GAP (the gimp animation package) plugin can, though it's
much more elaborate and oriented more toward movie making than just
animated images.  I haven't used GAP yet myself, so I don't know how
easy or difficult this might be.

        ...Akkana

From patpeck@znet.com  Mon May  9 13:33:32 2005
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Akkana Peck wrote:
> A dissolve as I know the term implies something that happens over
> time, so I guess you're talking about an animation?  

No, I was thinking about the same effect as in film, only stationary. 
With one image fading into another over space rather than time, if that 
makes any sense.  I don't know how this would look - it might look more 
like a mistake than anything else.  Just brainstormin'...

I like the idea of an animation of the leaves appearing.  Didn't know 
Gimp could do that.

-- 

        ...Pat

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On Sunday 08 May 2005 11:33 pm, Patricia Peck wrote:
> Akkana Peck wrote:
> > A dissolve as I know the term implies something that happens over
> > time, so I guess you're talking about an animation?
>
> No, I was thinking about the same effect as in film, only stationary.
>
> I like the idea of an animation of the leaves appearing.  Didn't know
> Gimp could do that.

Me too/neither.

Julie

-- 

<)\
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From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Wed May 11 08:31:08 2005
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On Monday 04 April 2005 02:34 pm, Angelina Carlton wrote:
> Many tripods use 1/4" (i think) screw that seems to be a standard
> among manufactures. Therefore you can take a bolt of the same
> size and epoxy it upside down to the top of a pop bottle.
>
> Now you can carry around the cap and wherever there is a bottle
> of pop, there is now a little tripod. Handy to keep in the car
> at least.

Neat!


-- 

<)\
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Penguin Power

From kproot@nerim.net  Sat Apr 16 20:37:01 2005
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From: Karine Delvare <kproot@nerim.net>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 10: Stitching Panoramic Images
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That was a long one! I didn't have any photos to stitch, so I went to shoot some with my camera, which is not digital so I still have to scan them, but they came out quite bad and I don't know yet if I will do it or try to shoot another series. Anyway, my sister came in the meantime with some digital ones that were not bad, so I could finally do this lesson!

The french translation of the course is at :
http://edhel.nerim.net/soeurs/article.php3?id_article=30
and the full panorama would have been too large in the article, so it's at :
http://edhel.nerim.net/images/Louvre-panorama.jpg

I want to do some more! Will post images links if I take the time :)

There was just one thing I didn't manage to do, that was moving a layer with the arrow keys. But maybe my window manager got confused because I maximized the panorama image so it was taking 2x3 virtual desktops...

Karine

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Wed May 11 07:32:11 2005
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I haven't done my "tree" project yet, but I plan to.  Instead I took a bunch 
of pictures of the front yard, sitting my camera on the porch rail, near 
sundown.  All the pictures together in one screenshot are here (50Kb):

http://bobsloansampler.com/gimp/pan/layers1.jpg

When I got them lined up using the arrow keys (very handy)(140Kb):

http://bobsloansampler.com/gimp/pan/layers4.jpg

After using layer mask, & cropping (300Kb):

http://bobsloansampler.com/gimp/pan/front.jpg

The xcf is huge (17Mb):

http://bobsloansampler.com/gimp/pan/front.xcf

This lesson intimidated me and I kept putting it off.  Using the arrow keys 
and transparency to line up layers made it easy, and layer mask added the 
finishing touches.  :)

Julie

-- 

<)\
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From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Wed May 11 08:26:39 2005
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On Tuesday 10 May 2005 05:33 pm, Julie Sloan wrote:

> The xcf is huge (17Mb):
>
> http://bobsloansampler.com/gimp/pan/front.xcf


Something went wrong during the upload and my xcf (and the one on the 
harddrive) is corrupt.  Oh well.

Julie
-- 

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This week, we'll take a week off from lessons.  Instead of a formal
lesson with homework, I'll tell you about some good sources for GIMP
related information, tutorials, and fun.

WILBER AND THE WILBER CONSTRUCTION KIT

If you've been to any GIMP web sites at all, you've probably wondered
about the little animal GIMP uses as a mascot.  If you haven't met
him yet, his face is at the top of the front page at gimp.org.

His name is Wilber.  You're not supposed to ask what kind of animal
he is, or if he has a body, because those are secrets.  (I thought I
knew the answers to these questions, but it turns out there's some
disagreement about it and I got scolded, so I won't risk saying what
I thought the answers were.)

Wilber has his own Wikipedia page: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wilber

The Wikipedia page mentions the Wilber Construction Kit, available as
docs/Wilber_Construction_Kit.xcf.gz inside the gimp source directory.
(If you google for that filename, you can probably find it online
somewhere without needing the whole source tree.)

The WCK is a wonderful little toy which shows how useful layers are
in GIMP: it's full of layers of hats, glasses, expressions and other
accessories to use to explore the many facets of Wilber's character.

There are a few other Wilber images around, including a large
vectorized one you can use if you need to make GIMPish logos ("Created
with GIMP" or anything like that) at a larger size than the WCK allows.
A Google Images search for wilber and gimp will turn up plenty of choices.

GROKKING THE GIMP

I owe most of my GIMP knowledge to an excellent book called
"Grokking the GIMP, by Carey Bunks.  The whole book is online at
http://gimp-savvy.com/

I visited the gimp-savvy site a couple times when I was just starting
out with GIMP, and read specific chapters online for my particular
projects. The third time I did that and got my questions successfully
answered, I decided I really ought to buy the book.  I expected I'd
use the paper book the same way, but to my surprise I started reading
at the beginning ... and before I knew it I had read the book cover to
cover, and had become a complete GIMP addict, making multi-layered
images and spending way too much time browsing gimp related web sites.

The book is written for GIMP 1.2, so it's somewhat out of date with
respect to where specific items are in the menus, and on some features
which have been improved, like the text tool.  But most of the
concepts remain unchanged, and I expect the book would still be very
useful for anyone interested in getting further into the GIMP.

RTFM

There's also quite a bit of documentation on Gimp's website, gimp.org.
Just click on "Documentation": there's a whole GIMP manual there,
full of useful information which is fairly up to date, plus shorter
howtos, lots of developer documentation and other goodies.
The GIMP developers work hard to write documentation and keep it up to
date, especially compared with most free/open source project: there's
a lot of good in-depth information available at gimp.org if you look
for it.  Don't make the mistake of assuming that since it's free
software, it isn't worth looking for docs.

TUTORIAL SITES

There are some great tutorial collections on creating specific effects
in GIMP.  Start with the ones on gimp.org: http://gimp.org/tutorials/
There are also some other tutorial collections hanging off gimp.org,
like Carol's: http://carol.gimp.org/
and Tigert's: http://www.tigert.com/gimp/tutorials/
(I think there are others, but they seem to move around a bit).

There's also the "Gimp User's Group", or GUG: http://gug.sunsite.dk/
There are lots of tutorials here, and also a huge assortment of sample
art, if you want inspiration or just want to browse a lot of pretty
art.  I've found the GUG site to be somewhat inconsistent: if it
seems to be down, try again later.  There's also a GUG mailing list,
but it doesn't get very much traffic.

WinGIMP.org also has quite a collection: http://www.wingimp.org/tutorial/

Another good collection of GIMP tutorials:
http://empyrean.lib.ndsu.nodak.edu/~nem/gimp/tuts/

I have some links to fun individual tutorials I've found (like
"Turning a person into an alien") in the Tutorials section of
http://shallowsky.com/linux/limaging.html

But don't stop with GIMP tutorials!  It turns out that most Photoshop
tutorials give you most of the information you need to do the same
effect in GIMP, so if you're trying for a particular effect, it's
worth googling for "photoshop" and "tutorial" if you strike out
looking for a GIMP-specific one.  I've learned quite a few
tricks from reading Photoshop tutorials and then applying the
techniques in GIMP.

"PHOTOSHOP CONTESTS"

What if you feel like GIMPing something, but you don't have any
specific ideas, or need inspiration?

Or what if you're just bored with all your video games and TV and want
a time waster that's a bit more interesting and humorous?

Check out some Photoshop Contests!  A number of web sites have formal or
informal contests where they announce a theme, and then people create
images (typically funny or outrageous) following the theme.  Usually you
can vote on the winner; sometimes there are even prizes.  It's fun to
browse and laugh at the images other people have created; it's
equally fun to enter (sometimes there are even beginner categories).

Sometimes they provide a sample image, and you modify it somehow;
other times, it's just a general topic, like "Experimental Aircraft"
or "Genetically Modified Animals", and it's up to the entrants to find
appropriate images to modify.

Don't be put off by the "Photoshop" in the name; the word is being
used as a generic term for "image manipulation", and it's perfectly
kosher to enter an image created with GIMP or any other program.

Go check out some of these sites: I guarantee you'll get some laughs,
whether or not you're motivated to enter any contests yourself.

http://www.worth1000.com/
http://www.somethingawful.com/photoshop/
http://photoshopcontest.com/

ART AND PHOTO COLLECTIONS AND TIPS

There are also more serious sites for posting (or viewing) digital
art, like GUG, http://gug.sunsite.dk/ (which I already mentioned for
their tutorials) and http://www.dpchallenge.com/

Another good source of inspiration is the contest the gimp developers
had recently for the 2.2 splash screen.  Some of the images there
are really stunning.
http://www.gimp.org/about/splash/contest/

There are also lots of collections of amazing (and funny) digital
creations by individual artists.  Sometimes they use gimp, sometimes
photoshop.  It doesn't matter -- they all *could* have been done
with gimp, so they're good inspiration either way. :-)

Our own Danamania has created some great designs based on
Apple hardware: http://www.danaquarium.com/gallery/vhacks
and she has some interesting creations of other sorts
(check out the cars!): http://www.danaquarium.com/gallery/misc

Another good site I found out about recently:
http://unix.rulez.org/~calver/pictures/uglyzoo/

And of course, there are some great sites if you just want to learn
more about photography techniques, or share your photos with others
and get feedback on them.  I'm partial to
http://photo.net/ and http://www.luminous-landscape.com/

YOUR SITES?

There are lots more sites besides the ones I mentioned here!
Anyone have any favorites to share?

NEXT LESSON: REQUESTS?

I don't have a topic for a next lesson yet.  I'd like to hear from
the students in the course!  What do you want to hear about?  Are the
lessons so far enough to keep you busy for a while, and maybe it's
time for a break?  Or is there anything in particular you'd like to
learn how to do?  Any techniques you've tried, but they aren't working
out as well as you'd like?  Any tips you've discovered, or insights
you've had, while working on gimp projects, that you could share?

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Sun Apr 10 01:42:17 2005
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On Friday 08 April 2005 11:46 pm, Akkana Peck wrote:
> This week, we'll take a week off from lessons.  Instead of a formal
> lesson with homework, I'll tell you about some good sources for GIMP
> related information, tutorials, and fun.


Thank you!  I was afraid I'd not be able to catch up now that I've fallen 
behind.

Julie



> _______________________________________________
> Courses mailing list
> Courses@linuxchix.org
> http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/listinfo/courses

-- 

...the continuing popularity of micro$oft window$ proves only that ten 
million monkeys really *do* sit down at ten million keyboards...

From patpeck@znet.com  Sun Apr 10 11:01:34 2005
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Akkana Peck wrote:
> This week, we'll take a week off from lessons.  Instead of a formal
> lesson with homework, I'll tell you about some good sources for GIMP
> related information, tutorials, and fun.


I'm going to agree with Julie here.  I've fallen behind, too, and will 
be very glad of an extra week or even two.  You have some great 
information in this GIMP information post, and just checking out all of 
that is going to take as long as a lesson.  It really looks like fun, at 
a cursory glance, but I'm going to exercise a little self-control and do 
the two lessons I've missed before playing with Wilber and other such 
fun stuff.


> I'd like to hear from
> the students in the course!  What do you want to hear about?  Are the
> lessons so far enough to keep you busy for a while, and maybe it's
> time for a break?  Or is there anything in particular you'd like to
> learn how to do?  

As mentioned above, I could use a little break to good advantage.  There 
was one thing I wanted to ask how to do, but now that I've become an 
expert in image manipulation (joke!) thanks to this course, I can see 
what they did, and might try a little of the same myself.

What it was:  Some time ago (pre-gimplessons), our town put out a 
brochure on "Art in Public Places", with photos and addresses.  A couple 
of friends and I did a tour of most of the examples.  It was amazing how 
the photos had made some pretty pedestrian art look really good.  What 
they did, generally speaking, was to use two or three angles of the same 
subject, manipulate one or two to be a somewhat washed-out background, 
with the other(s) sharper and in the foreground.  After the lessons 
we've had and after taking another look at the photos, it looks pretty 
simple, with the main requirement being to get good angles and decide 
which should be the in-focus one.

I think I'll take a run at doing a few of these myself, since there are 
a few pieces of pedestrian art around here that they didn't cover.  :-)

I'll be interested in what other students want to hear about, and will 
give it a little more thought myself.  I'm such a neophyte at this that 
I don't even know what I want to know.

-- 

        ...Pat


From patpeck@znet.com  Sun Apr 10 13:20:21 2005
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Julie Sloan wrote:
> I want to know how to draw a circle.

Good one!  I hadn't thought of that, but now that you've brought it up, 
I want to, also.  I don't know *why* I want to, but it may come in handy 
someday.  :-)

-- 

        ...Pat

From patpeck@znet.com  Mon Apr 11 07:33:28 2005
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I'm finally working on Lesson 9 - I'm SO far behind!  This is what I 
have so far:

http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/LayMask.jpg

The orange stuff is "dodder", a "leafless parasitic vine with yellowish 
threadlike stems".  Pretty for a parasite, isn't it?  I couldn't get my 
layer mask to look as good as Akkana's no matter how I diddled with all 
the variables.  Maybe size matters and my text was too small?

Then there's the bump map, an easy one, but there's sure a lot of stuff 
to play with.

http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/BumpMap.jpg

-- 

        ...Pat

From patpeck@znet.com  Mon Apr 11 12:18:54 2005
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Patricia Peck wrote:

Still working... well, working again.  I got the layer mask better when 
I changed the foreground color back to black from the orange of the 
text.  (Yes, it said black in the lesson, but I missed that part the 
first time.)  So this one looks somewhat better than the first try.  I 
just overwrote the old one, so it's gone.

http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/LayMask.jpg

After that, I fiddled with bump map on the same image.  Never did get 
what I was aiming for, but this is kinda interesting:

http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/maskbump.jpg

-- 

        ...Pat

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Tue Apr 12 03:22:45 2005
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From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Drawing a circle
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Patricia Peck writes:
> After that, I fiddled with bump map on the same image.  Never did get 
> what I was aiming for, but this is kinda interesting:
> 
> http://webpages.charter.net/patpeck/maskbump.jpg

That's a neat effect!  It's from a bump map?  It looks like it
must have been from a combination of a couple different text layers,
like the text and its shadow, or the text and a slightly larger
version of the same text.

Isn't it fun how you can get play around randomly and get
interesting new effects?  It was that way when I wrote the
lesson on layer masks: most of the effects were really boring,
then every now and then I'd go "Ooh, that's worth saving."
But the ones worth saving might have been quite different if
I'd started with different colors.  There are so many combinations!

Regarding drawing a circle:

GIMP doesn't have shape-drawing tools, but it does have shape
selection tools.  So the trick is to make a circular selection,
then turn that into a line.

The ellipse selection tool, of course, can make a circle, but it's
hard, just dragging it out, to make it a perfect circle with width
and height the same.  But pressing the shift key while you drag will
constrain the ellipse selection to be exactly circular.

There's a catch, though: shift has two meanings.  It can mean "Add
to current selection", and it can mean "constrain to a circle".
If you press shift first, before you start dragging, you'll see a
little "+" gets added to the mouse cursor: that means "whatever you
select now will be added to the current selection, instead of
replacing it."  But in addition, the selection will be constrained
to be circular.  (What if you want to add a non-circular selection?
I'll tell you that in a minute.)

However, if you start dragging first, and then, while the mouse is
still down, press shift, then the selection is constrained to a
circle, but will still replace any existing selection.

This works in the rectangular selection tool, too, for making squares.

I think in earlier versions of gimp, pressing shift to get a
circular selection also shifts the selection to be centered around
the point where you started, rather than using that as the upper
left point.  That was somewhat jarring, and gimp 2.2 doesn't do that
any more.  Remember, you can move a selection after you've made it
with alt-drag (if your windowmanager doesn't block that) or
alt-shift-drag (which works in most windowmanagers).

Okay, that's how to get a circular selection.  How do you draw a
line where the selection is?

Edit->Stroke Selection... will do that.  It brings up a dialog
where you can select the stroke width, or stroke with a paint tool
if you want to use a particular brush.

For some reason, I can never remember where this is (why is it in
Edit?), so sometimes I use another method: Select->Border...
replaces the selection with its own outline, and you can use
the bucket fill tool to fill that.  If you just want a circle,
Stroke Selection is better, but it's good to know that Border is
there too.  Explore that Select... menu: you might find other
functions there that will be useful to you.

ADD/SUBTRACT SELECTIONS

I mentioned earlier that I'd tell you how to add a non-circular
selection to the current selection.  With the ellipse selection tool
active (or another selection tool, like rectangular or lasso), look
at the tool options.  At the top of the options dialog is a Mode
selector with several obscure buttons.  This lets you change whether
the selection you make will replace the current selection, add to
it, subtract from it, or intersect with it.

Why would you want to do this?  Actually it's extremely useful.
For example, remember the lesson on selection of complex objects,
where I selected a butterfly?  Suppose I made that selection,
including the butterfly's antenna, but then later decided that I
didn't want to enhance the antenna because they looked weird.
I could choose the Lasso tool, click the "Subtract from current
selection" button, then draw a big lasso around just the antenna
(very easy: I wouldn't have to outline them carefully, just make
sure that my big lasso includes all the parts of the selection which
I want to exclude).

"Add to current selection" can also be useful because it allows you
to combine several different selection tools into one selection.
You could use select by color or select similar regions to select
a complex shape, then use rectangular or elliptical selection in
"Add" mode to add a box or oval sticking off one side.

Often you can accomplish the same thing using layer masks or quickmask
(we haven't talked about the quickmask, but it's somewhat similar
to layer masks), but there are times where you specifically need a
selection with a complex shape, and add/subtract modes can be a
real time-saver then.

That ended up being almost a lesson.  But there's still no homework. :-)

        ...Akkana

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Akkana Peck wrote:
> That's a neat effect!  It's from a bump map?  It looks like it
> must have been from a combination of a couple different text layers,
> like the text and its shadow, or the text and a slightly larger
> version of the same text.

No, way simpler than that.  It was the same basic image as the layer 
mask, and I just selected bump map and played around with the options. 
Totally a happy mistake.


> Isn't it fun how you can get play around randomly and get
> interesting new effects?  

It is!  And there are SO many options to a lot of these things that you 
can while away happy hours just playing with them.  Or not so happy if 
you're looking for a specific effect and failing. :-)

> It was that way when I wrote the
> lesson on layer masks: most of the effects were really boring,
> then every now and then I'd go "Ooh, that's worth saving."

Sometimes you can learn a lot of new stuff when you're teaching, can't you?

> The ellipse selection tool, of course, can make a circle, but it's
> hard, just dragging it out, to make it a perfect circle with width
> and height the same.  But pressing the shift key while you drag will
> constrain the ellipse selection to be exactly circular.

Cool tip.  I just tried selecting a circle around a particular spot, and 
it works great if you do it from upper left to lower right.  The stroke 
selection and border gizmos work great, too.


> That ended up being almost a lesson.  But there's still no homework. :-)

:-)  Thanks, Teach!

-- 

        ...Pat

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 Thank you, Akkana for such a lot of gimp info, will keep me busy for
quite a while !!

> I don't have a topic for a next lesson yet.  I'd like to hear from
> the students in the course!  What do you want to hear about?=20

I'm really enjoying the course, but can't think of any specific
topics to suggest. I suppose its because I'm a new gimp  user, and
don't really know all that I can get from it.


Find local movie times and trailers on Yahoo! Movies.
http://au.movies.yahoo.com

From akkana@shallowsky.com  Sat Apr 16 14:28:46 2005
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Sounds like everybody is enjoying the vacation.  So no lesson
this week.  But I want to share a couple of images someone showed
me recently which demonstrate some neat drawing techniques.

First, they're not made with GIMP, though all the techniques used
are available in GIMP.  No, not with Photoshop, either!
They're made with ...  Tux Paint!  By kids!  (Though I'm told
the kids probably had some help.)

The first one:
http://www.newbreedsoftware.com/tuxpaint/gallery/?cur_pict=126
Check out those clouds!  Use a fuzzy brush in the paintbrush tool
and scribble some grey.  Then scribble some white above it.
Make part of the white a little transparent to make it blend
into the grey.  You might want two layers of white: one opaque,
one partially transparent (with the slider in the Layers dialog).
I like the scribbled sun reflection, too.  (The penguins and
trees are shapes built into TuxPaint, I think.)

Second, a neat aurora effect:
http://www.newbreedsoftware.com/tuxpaint/gallery/?cur_pict=102
Just some curved lines (drawn in a fuzzy brush) that change colors
(you could set "Use color from gradient" in the paint tool, though
none of the existing gradients are quite right so you might have
to design one; or you could just draw several different lines,
changing the color by hand).  Then use the smudge tool to smudge
the colors upward.  It does take a lot of smudging, but it's a neat
effect.  If you find that it's taking too much smudging, try playing
with the "Rate" slider in the smudge tool options, and use a bigger
brush when smudging.

Just a couple of examples of how really simple drawing tools can
be used to create surprisingly good effects.  If five and nine year
old kids can learn how to do this stuff, maybe there's hope for
those of us who are a little older.

No homework, but if you're looking for gimp projects, try playing
with transparency of layers, and with the smudge tool, in connection
with the drawing tools.  You could probably also create some nice
text effects this way, using smudge or several semi-transparent
layers in combination with text.

        ...Akkana

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I was surprised this morning to see my weblog's statistics had gone through the roof. This is why :

http://www.gimp-fr.org/

Akkana's gimp courses, Linuxchix website, the Courses mailing list and my translations to the courses are mentioned there. I think noone was forgotten there so I hope everyone will enjoy this Linuxchix highlighting :)

Anyway, now I *really* have to work on the usability of my weblog because right now it's so awful one cannot navigate properly in it.

And I still have to translate the 2 add-on lessons :)

-- 
Karine Delvare
http://edhel.nerim.net/

From mary@home.puzzling.org  Sat Apr 30 10:23:41 2005
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Hey folks,

I'm not here to hijack Akk's course, but I just thought of a fun
exercise in the GIMP.

Many of the "Planet" sites ( http://planet.debian.org/ ,
http://planet.gnome.org/ ) have floating heads associated with each
person's blog entries. Someone has done up a fairly short set of
instructions for making your own here: http://www.grep.be/blog/lj/21322

So people willing to show us their faces can try their own. You can see
mine at http://users.puzzling.org/users/mary/Images/big-mary.png

I'm going to add these heads optionally to http://live.linuxchix.org/ ,
and I might pass on requests for GIMPing to you guys :)

-Mary

From photopoppy@gmail.com  Mon May  2 07:32:07 2005
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From: Poppy Casper <photopoppy@gmail.com>
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------=_Part_1702_2985949.1114983119231
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I assume that the heads will be associated with the site, not coming
from our regular blogs.... I'm attaching mine as a PNG as I don't know
where to put it for you :)

That was actually kind of fun.... and a good use of a picture that
otherwise had turned out pretty badly.

--Poppy

On 4/29/05, Mary <mary-linuxchix@puzzling.org> wrote:
> Hey folks,
>=20
> I'm not here to hijack Akk's course, but I just thought of a fun
> exercise in the GIMP.
>=20
> Many of the "Planet" sites ( http://planet.debian.org/ ,
> http://planet.gnome.org/ ) have floating heads associated with each
> person's blog entries. Someone has done up a fairly short set of
> instructions for making your own here: http://www.grep.be/blog/lj/21322
>=20
> So people willing to show us their faces can try their own. You can see
> mine at http://users.puzzling.org/users/mary/Images/big-mary.png
>=20
> I'm going to add these heads optionally to http://live.linuxchix.org/ ,
> and I might pass on requests for GIMPing to you guys :)
>=20
> -Mary
> _______________________________________________
> Courses mailing list
> Courses@linuxchix.org
> http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/listinfo/courses
>

------=_Part_1702_2985949.1114983119231--

From mary@home.puzzling.org  Mon May  2 07:39:11 2005
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Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Just for fun: hackergotchi heads
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On Sun, May 01, 2005, Poppy Casper wrote:
> I assume that the heads will be associated with the site, not coming
> from our regular blogs.... I'm attaching mine as a PNG as I don't know
> where to put it for you :)

Yeah, I'll put the PNGs on the site.

> That was actually kind of fun.... and a good use of a picture that
> otherwise had turned out pretty badly.

It didn't come through, I think the list software strips attachments.
Send it to me at additions@live.linuxchix.org and I'll put it up. People
can see existing heads at http://live.linuxchix.org/heads/

-Mary

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My bad, I was trying to send it offlist.

On 5/1/05, Mary <mary-linuxchix@puzzling.org> wrote:

> It didn't come through, I think the list software strips attachments.
> Send it to me at additions@live.linuxchix.org and I'll put it up. People
> can see existing heads at http://live.linuxchix.org/heads/
>=20
> -Mary
> _______________________________________________
> Courses mailing list
> Courses@linuxchix.org
> http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/listinfo/courses
>

From katie@katie-and-rob.org  Mon May  2 07:56:32 2005
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On Sat, Apr 30, 2005 at 10:16:51AM +1000, Mary wrote:
> I'm going to add these heads optionally to http://live.linuxchix.org/ ,
> and I might pass on requests for GIMPing to you guys :)

I have a request: can anyone make a decent floating head for me out
of any of my self-portraits at
http://katie-and-rob.org/album/20050219_self_portraits/ ?  I've been
having trouble finding good borders, what with my long hair.

-- 
Katie Bechtold         http://katie-and-rob.org/



From mary@home.puzzling.org  Wed Jun  1 10:07:08 2005
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Hi GIMP students,

We've got another request to do a hackergotchi head. Can anyone do a
head from http://chionh.org/images/face48.jpg ?

Samples of existing heads are at http://live.linuxchix.org/heads/ , and
some instructions are at http://www.grep.be/blog/lj/21322

-Mary

From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Mon Jun  6 10:42:20 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Another hackergotchi request
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On Tuesday 31 May 2005 08:06 pm, Mary wrote:
> Hi GIMP students,
>
> We've got another request to do a hackergotchi head. Can anyone do a
> head from http://chionh.org/images/face48.jpg ?
>
> Samples of existing heads are at http://live.linuxchix.org/heads/ , and
> some instructions are at http://www.grep.be/blog/lj/21322
>
> -Mary


I did one! <g>  the instructions said first you have to do one of yourself.  
It's at: 

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/sig2.png

Then I tried the requested one, which would have IMO turned out better if 
she hadn't cut half her chin off in the photo.  gotch2 clips out her neck, 
which I guess is what you're supposed to do...

http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/gotch1.png
http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/gotch2.png

...is png a good format for this?  I'll let someone else decide if my 
results are good enough to offer.  :)

best,
Julie
-- 




From claudine@chionh.org  Mon Jun  6 15:52:10 2005
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Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Another hackergotchi request
From: "Claudine Chionh" <claudine@chionh.org>
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Julie Sloan said:
> Then I tried the requested one, which would have IMO turned out better =
if
> she hadn't cut half her chin off in the photo.  gotch2 clips out her ne=
ck,
> which I guess is what you're supposed to do...
>
> http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/gotch1.png
> http://www.bobsloansampler.com/gimp/gotch2.png

Ah, I must be subscribed to "all topics"; I haven't been keeping up with =
my
mail lately.

Yes, the chin is a bit of a close shave, but I'd have to find the full-si=
ze
photo again to crop it properly, and I moved house recently and my CDs
aren't organised.

Anyway, PoppyC also did a gotchi, which she sent to me privately instead =
of
to the list. My latest post hasn't turned up on live.linuxchix.org yet, s=
o
I'm not sure how it will look in context.

Thanks for your effort though!

Claudine

--=20
Claudine Chionh <claudine@chionh.org>
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
phone: +61 418 592 269
http://chionh.org/



From juliesloan@mindspring.com  Tue Jun  7 09:02:38 2005
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From: Julie Sloan <juliesloan@mindspring.com>
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Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Another hackergotchi request
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On Monday 06 June 2005 01:31 am, Claudine Chionh wrote:
> Julie Sloan said:
> > Then I tried the requested one, which would have IMO turned out better
> > if she hadn't cut half her chin off in the photo.<snip>
> > 
> Yes, the chin is a bit of a close shave, but I'd have to find the
> full-size photo again to crop it properly, and I moved house recently and
> my CDs aren't organised.
>
> Anyway, PoppyC also did a gotchi, which she sent to me privately instead
> of to the list. <snip>
>
> Thanks for your effort though!
>
> Claudine


Hi Claudine!

I didn't realize you were on this list, or I'd have spoken "to" rather than 
"at" you.  That was my first encounter with hackergotchi and I just had to 
give it a try  :)

Julie
-- 

From claudine@chionh.org  Tue Jun  7 13:08:07 2005
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Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 13:08:01 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: [Courses] [gimp] Another hackergotchi request
From: "Claudine Chionh" <claudine@chionh.org>
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Julie Sloan said:
> Hi Claudine!
>
> I didn't realize you were on this list, or I'd have spoken "to" rather =
than
> "at" you.  That was my first encounter with hackergotchi and I just had=
 to
> give it a try  :)

That's OK, I'm not really active on this course -- I'm interested in GIMP
but haven't been able to give it much of my time.

Claudine

--=20
Claudine Chionh <claudine@chionh.org>
Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
phone: +61 418 592 269
http://chionh.org/



From calbert.hyland@state.tn.us  Tue Dec 12 21:54:23 2006
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Akkana Peck ... just to let you know:
 
We've just begun using GIMP here at work and my plans are to utilize
this great program at home. I ran across your site for the GIMP course.
How well written! Excellent job! I'm looking forward to better
understanding this fine product. As for you and your style, it prompted
me to go ahead and order your book Beginning GIMP: From Novice to
Professional.
 
Thank you for your support and great presentation abilities. You are
one terrific person. 
 
 
 
 
Cal Hyland, PA4
DHS, TCCMS
400 Deaderick St.
Nashville, TN 37243
615-313-5199
calbert.hyland@state.tn.us

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 3: Introduction to Layers and Text
      (Akkana Peck)


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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 11:24:29 -0800
From: Akkana Peck <akkana@shallowsky.com>
Subject: Re: [Courses][gimp] Lesson 3: Introduction to Layers and Text
To: courses@linuxchix.org
Message-ID: <20050214192429.GA19102@shallowsky.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Dus-ascii

I just want to say, thanks, Karine!  I do appreciate your adding a
link back to the original courses, or my name.  And your French
translations of the course look really great -- I don't read French
(much, anyway) but all the screenshots add a lot.

And an oversight doesn't make you a jerk. :-)

        ...Akkana

Karine Proot writes:
> Hello chix and Gimp-course-followers,
>=20
> It seems I had not mentioned the original courses and their author=20
> anywhere in my translated courses where I post my homework, but in the

> lesson 0 (where there was only a link to the course and not even=20
> Akkana's name...)
>=20
> Please consider that my website was not yet advertised, so only people

> from Linuxchix came and saw the lessons, so no damage had yet be done.

> But it would have been advertised in a near future and damage would
have=20
> been done then!
>=20
> Anyway, thanks to those you saw this and told me about it, I hate
being=20
> a jerk :)
>=20
> Akkana, please accept my apologies.
>=20
> Karine
> _______________________________________________
> Courses mailing list
> Courses@linuxchix.org
> http://mailman.linuxchix.org/mailman/listinfo/courses


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End of Courses Digest, Vol 20, Issue 22
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